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Raika D.
 
ABOVE: Raika
D., co-designer Carmine Di Sarno and Nicky Hilton
LAST SEASON, at her début
at the Bryant Park tents, designer Raika D. showed a somewhat
serviceable collection. It wasn’t necessarily bad or particularly
memorable—it was a good, first-time-out-of-the-gate effort. It pleases
me to no end to say that her sophomore collection last February
was pleasant surprise, and a joy to behold. While her first collection
was somewhat unfocused, this one is a lot more cohesive. According
to her programming notes, she derived at her inspiration on a rainy
Saturday afternoon, while relaxing on her porch at her home in Modena,
Italy. Struck by the ‘magnificent colors’ in the sky after a tumultuous
storm, she was ‘in awe of the intense colors and energy of the stormy
sky, [and] felt moved to express such splendor in [her] fall/winter
collection.’ And that she did in a manner that elevated her to the
next level. What then transpired was a collection of pieces made
from rich fabrics (taffeta, silk velvet, brocade, cashmere and mohair)
and handcrafted lace detailing that had a combined air of sensual
gypsy romanticism mixed with a touch of straightforward urban sophistication.
She opened with a black gabardine mini-skirt with
lace inserts paired with a dressy asymmetrical sheer silk top with
bell sleeves. Other stand-out pieces in the collection include her
light violet asymmetrical knit dress (with shredded mohair trim),
her violet lace tiered mini skirt (paired with a violet cap-sleeved
mohair sweater), her ode to Stevie Nicks, the queen of the Gypsies
(a bohemian print high–low skirt paired with a mohair print
sweater) and her urban cowgirl (Aleksandra in a cream and ice blue
tulle tier skirt, embroidered bustier and ice blue tunic sweater).
I also thought her heavy black car coat with rib sweater collar
and cuffs was quite lovely—practical yet infused with a hint of
fun and whimsy at the same time.
Since the company’s inception two years ago, growth
has been steady; and her designs are now sold in 480 stores worldwide,
including stores in Japan, Italy and two of her own boutiques in
Moscow.
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