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Abaeté by Laura Poretzky
Abaeté (pronounced ah-bye-ah-tay, and featured
in Lucire’s February 2005 print edition) is the family
name of designer–founder Laura Poretzky, and roughly translates
to ‘person of virtue’. This is a line, however, so far young and
somewhat unknown, that has gained a reputation for the highest quality
fit, fabric and craftsmanship.
Ms Poretzky was born in France to a Russian father
and a Danish-Brazilian mother, and raised in Paris, Rio de Janiero
and New York City with a lifelong interest in the arts and fashion.
This international flavour is very much reflected in her collection
of sophisticated, feminine designs. Her spring 2005 collection,
the very first complete ready-to-wear collection of her young career,
was inspired by ‘the beautifully delicate children of the Russian
Romanov family but created for the uptown girl just beginning to
test out the waters of this world,’ which doesn't exactly compute
until you see the full range of the individual pieces.
The dresses, skirts and tops she sent down her
runway straggled the middle by being ever-so-genteel and being equally
jazzed up with youthful and modern embellishments. She has a very
fresh approach to designing that is evident from the get-go. I particularly
liked her Analiese top with with its handkerchief hem, her Caterina
silk camisole and her form-fitting Kim dress. Working with a colour
palette of mostly off-whites, wash-outed peaches, bieges and sea-foam
greens, Ms Poretzky was able to stay on message—that pretty
doesn't have to be boring—without overloading on the saccharine-sweet
nature of the genre.
She excelled beyond measure, however, with her
swimwear pieces. Here she displayed deep confidence in her abilities.
I was especially impressed with her Harlequin ‘beluga’ one-piece
swimsuit and the corresponding Harlequin triangle cut top bikini
set. She has this amazing ability to design demure, almost virginal
pieces and all-out sexy suits—without skipping a beat.
 
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Heatherette
 
 
PHOTOGRAPHS, THIS
PAGE: Heatherette.
 THE
INVITATION should have given us the clue that the spring
2005 Heatherette show was going to be memorable well beyond
the end of Fashion Week itself. Long known for being the kings of
the downtown alternative fashion scene, Richie Rich and Traver Rains
surprised everyone by showing a collection that simultaneously stayed
true to their downtown roots while announcing to all far and wide
that they are now in the business of producing serious fashion.
Heatherette High, the theme for the show, was
equal parts discotheque and high school prom, with a bow made of
balloons and a disco ball adding to the generally jovial atmosphere.
Strip the show-week embellishments, and what you end up with are
beautifully cut coats and jackets, extremely cute swimsuit pieces
and printed frocks, and denim looks that are street-ready right
off the runway.
To say that this was a triumph for Messrs Rich
and Raines would be the understatement of the week. Being the showmen
that they are, they throw in a mixture of models and bold-faced
society girls on the runway, including Lizzie Jagger (daughter of
Mick), Kimberley Stewart (daughter of Rod), Lydia Hearst-Shaw (daughter
of Patricia) and Paris Hilton (everyone's favourite punching bag
on the social circuit), culminating with Naomi Campbell wearing
a mini-dress made of stars. Bravo, boys, on a job well done!
CONTINUED
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