The fall collection by Francis Hendy was by far
the most improved, laser-beam-focused collection he has ever shown.
While I have never doubted his talent, I have often been disappointed
by his lack of focus in past seasons. What he neededand where
he showed the most growthwas in his editing down of the collection
before show time. It was everything including the kitchen sink.
For fall 2002, it was a mixture of the late 40s
and the contrast of our present time as seen by Mr Hendy. A lot
of his coats had double side flaps which is very much of the 40s.
What tied it all together was his pairing the coats with leather
pieces in diverse colours and animal skins. When he got it all right,
he was golden. One such example was at the top of the programme
where he paired a dark brown sweater with wool plaid flat front
pant. He then topped it off with a dark green suede bomber jacket
with a brown textured leather collar. This was as good as it gets:
classic menswear for the widest possible range of customer.
As usual, ultrasuede played a dominant role throughout
the collection, with the best example being his smoke gray ultrasuede
suit. It, also, was just right. Other pieces worthy of mention include
his royal blue Napoli reversible coat, a rust plaid wool double
breasted suit, and his patterned black leather jacket with its black
rabbit fur collar.
But there is still much work to be done if he
wants to get to the next level. There were far too many pieces that
should have been left in the showroom. He showed a great ultrasuede
jacketvest but then couldnt leave well enough alone.
He spoiled it by tarting it up with studs that reminded me of the
80sthe bad 80s. There were simply too many buttons
on his military suit. Sometimes we forget that less is really more.
Phillip D. Johnson
Phillip D. Johnson is Features Editor of Lucire.
Richard Spiegel is New York Editor of Lucire.
24 West 57th Street
New York, New York 10019
Tel: 1 212 315-2233
Fax: 1 212 315-2266
244 West 39th Street, 11th Floor
New York, New York 10018
Tel: 1 212 354-4764
Fax: 1 212 354-4765
327 West 30th Street, Suite 2F
New York, New York 10011
Tel: 1 212 594-3795
Fax: 1 212 594-4564
R. Scott French
Press info: 1 212 475-5064
Sales contact for womens
275 West 39th Street
1 212 398-3206
315 West 39th Street
1 212 216-0000