volante:
the netherlands

Dutch on the fly
You cannot go around the world in a
day, but you can get a taste of it with a stopover in Amsterdam
by Elyse Glickman
photographed by the author
Expanded from issue
23 of Lucire
WHEN I LEARNED
I was booked on KLM for a business
trip to Europe, I realized I had the option to enjoy a stay—an exceedingly
brief one—in Amsterdam. Given memories of a past trip—save for a
brownie that would never be sold in my local Starbucks pastry case—the
prospect of a mini-Amsterdam vacation was beyond alluring. Although
I later learned current airline rules make extending a stopover
in Amsterdam next to impossible (believe me, I tried, and you could
plan a week’s vacation with a savvy travel agent for what the stopover
fee would cost), I decided to soldier on and experience all of (a
Dutch) summer in a day.
As I arrived in mid-afternoon, it was clear that
hitting the museums would be next to impossible, and there would
barely be enough time to shop (most stores shut down tight at 6
P.M.).
I decided the best way to experience the 18-hour layover was with
an open mind, open eyes, my camera and a very comfy pair of shoes.
After I stored most of my luggage inside a special locker area at
Schiphol Airport, my vacation began with a quick 20-minute
ride into the city, taking in the ambiance as I arrived at Centraal
Station. From there, I walked down the Damrak and then took the
scenic route toward the Sofitel Amsterdam, a worth-the-money indulgence
that combines a historic building, an unbeatable location along
the tram route, an amazing breakfast buffet and one of the most
competent concierge staffs I have ever encountered. When I informed
them I was staying just one night, they bent over backwards to decipher
maps and make sure every moment of my stay would be memorable. (If
your budget is more modest, check out www.holland.com
or www.fodors.com for perfectly
wonderful independently owned bed-and-breakfast establishments at great prices.)
Once my small tote bag of overnight necessities
was squared away, I ventured past the canals and into the youth-driven
Singel neighbourhood, brimming with funky boutiques, Indian shops
and more than a handful of coffee houses. Crossing back through
affluent Herengracht, I discovered that the city itself was a living
museum, with canal houses that refer to every major architectural
phase in European history, from the simple, dignified styles of
the 1600s to the elaborate baroque homes from the late 18th century
to fluid Victorian and Belle Époque influences. I also took
advantage of one of the many canal tours that enabled me to learn
quite a bit of history in less than two hours and enjoy the views
of the homes and the city’s famously carefree lifestyle.
By the time the boat ride was over, there was
just an hour left to check out Holland’s retail scene. Thanks to
Sofitel Amsterdam’s location, I was at the doorstep of the impressive
Magna Mall, which houses a good cross section of Holland’s trendiest
chain stores as well as some upscale boutiques, yes, an incredible
historic building. I also took mental note of stores I vowed to
hit on the next visit including D.E.P.T. Store (beautifully made
and decently priced trendy clothing—I got there just in time to
snap up a cute embroidered tee to wear out to dinner), Claudia Sträter
and Laundry Industry (both shops featuring gorgeous, perfect-for-the-office
career-wear). After another stop back at the hotel to freshen up
and make my travel-worn hair somewhat presentable, I took the tram
to Leidesplein for dinner.
In contrast to my past experience of the Leidseplein
(in the middle of winter), the place was now the biggest, best food
court on Earth, with all kinds of exotic aromas wafting about and
an international array of cuisines ranging from Argentinean steaks,
to pizza, to every stripe of Asian cooking. Hoping to recreate a
wonderful Rijsttafels experience I just could not get in the States,
I headed over to the widely recommended Puri Mas (Lange Leidsedwarsstraat
37–41), a clean, family-owned establishment that has delighted locals
and tourists alike since 1989. My expectations were more than met
with an elaborate spicy and flavourful meal, along with opportunities
to chat with diners from around the world. Once full, I walked around
the streets surrounding Leidseplein to survey the different clubs
and other dining opportunities—yes—for future reference. With sunlight
lasting until 10.30, there was ample opportunity to quickly pass
by the Royal Palace and Nieuwe Kerk as the final rays of daylight
hit, creating a sky echoing the legendary paintings of the Dutch
Masters.
Though I got myself up early the next morning,
I only had about four hours to take in Amsterdam’s joie de vivre
before catching the train to Schiphol. The early morning skies were
optimal for great photos along the canals, so I ventured via a zig-zag
route of canals to the area of the Anne Frank House and Westerkerk,
and then walked up and down Prinsengracht and Herengracht to see
the best canal houses in the city against clear blue skies. After
a quick jaunt to the Blmenmarkt to tip-toe through the tulips,
it was time, alas, to grab my things, tram it to Centraal Station.
Thanks to the efficiency of the trains, I had just enough time to
visit Schiphol’s Holland Street which features an airport
branch of the Rijksmuseum with a focus on Rembrandt,
in observance of his 400th birthday.
As crazy as it seemed for me to plan an 18-hour
vacation, I realized as I departed for LA
that I was not alone. In my materials from the Amsterdam Tourism
and Convention Board, it was reported that over 15 million people
every year make Amsterdam a day trip destination. But honestly,
after the 18-hour whirlwind, it is clear that 15 million people
cannot be wrong.
Read the
print version of this article featuring photographs by Douglas
Rimington.
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