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fashion: the circuit

Milano, the leaderMilano, the leader

Francesco Scognamiglio

Sam Mitchell reviews Lucire’s favourites from the autumn–winter 2007–8 collections in Milano
photographed by Fabio Sartori/


ITALYS FASHION CAPITAL Milano turned on the bright lights for its autumn–winter 2007–8 collections showing this season, and the designs on display were definitely worthy of the occasion.

A notable turn away from masculine emphasis opened the doors for softer lines and figure-hugging dresses to take the catwalk and dominate the crowd. A lighter and brighter pallette also further supported this new womanly direction, with floral prints gracing flowing skirts and more geometrically styled designs giving vibrancy to the usual grey tones.

Waists remain the key focus in silhouette, belted and cinched, while hemlines soar sky-high to reveal stockinged legs and dangerously high heels. Blumarine’s crimson splashed cocktail dress was a perfect example of such notable features, gathered at the waist to create voluptuous lines around the hips but finishing at the knee to reveal stocking clad pins and ankle strap heels.

Lucire: the global fashion magazineEveryone’s autumn–winter favourite, the classic coat, was also given several new personas in Milano, from sleek and simple at Blumarine, to heavier but delightfully tailored and enhancing the silhouette at Valentin Yudashkin (right). Shades ranged from deep plum, to grey and black, while Etro’s take on everyone’s new autumn–winter favourite, the cape, made a fantastic contrast with bright geometric lining bringing extra life to their black neck-fastening piece, suggesting what all wise women already know, that the best way to add excitement to dull winter tones, is to team your classic but dark coat with a bright dress or top to add that little point of difference.

Another popular and still recurring autumn–winter trend is that of layering. A great idea on any chilly day, layering allows you to show many fantastic pieces all at once. Starting with a simple pair of leggings and dress Sonia Fortuna got this one bang-on, by adding a long cardigan-style coat over the top then bringing back shape with a belt at the waist. The complementary neckpiece and gorgeous high boots finished this look, which appears very nice and cozy, but not overly bundled and shapeless.

As always accessories are a must with every look, and utilitarian bags in bold colours were the way to go in Milano. Patent leather was the desired approach for such hand-pieces, while suede was more popular with footwear. Belts in many forms were featured; textured, contrasting, thin and wide were all around, with a personal favourite being Udashkin’s black cincher belt with huge blinged out buckle, a great statement when contrasted with classic military grey. Laura Biagiotti’s matching rosette flower was maybe a little too Sex and the City series two-esque for my liking, but
A notable turn away from masculine emphasis opened the doors for softer lines and figure-hugging dresses to take the catwalk and dominate the crowd
Blumarine’s miniature leopard print purse was very fun, and a playful addition to the emerald green outfit it was teamed with.

With the world’s most renowned textiles manufacturers at their doorstep, Italy always produces the most beautifully textured pieces, and this season was no exception. Luxurious silks featured throughout, in both skirts and blouses, creating feminine delicacy in even the more structured designs. Traditionally common materials such as jersey and cotton knits were given a streetwise edge with tie-dye detail and funky cuts. As autumn–winter collections always bring, woollen knits were also prevalent, but sleeker and finer than we have previously seen, Blumarine’s knitted opera gloves further illustrating wool’s transition from the expectation of Nana’s hand-knitted jumper, to fine jersey dresses and close-fitting comfort.

True to form, there was no disappointment in Milano this season, with something for everyone to take a liking to and no doubt incorporate seamlessly into their wardrobe. Always a leader and never a follower, Milano once again has proven itself as a forerunner of European fashion trends and this will no doubt be clearly exampled on the streets this winter. Keep an eye out! •


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Laura Biagiotti



Fortuna (left); Iceberg (right)


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