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Giving the green light

BEAUTY Eco-conscious beauty takes centre-stage at Cosmoprof North America, reports Jody Miller
Photographed by the author




Above: Colour galore at Cosmoprof for 2019.

Jody Miller is a correspondent for Lucire.


Another year in the life of Cosmoprof North America has come to a close. Blazing desert heat and a much-televised local grasshopper swarm did not discourage over 40,000 attendees and 1,435 exhibitors from convening at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas from July 27 to 30.

In addition to a seemingly endless labyrinth of exhibitor aisles (which, in the spirit of Las Vegas, the exit doors seemed nowhere to be found), there were simultaneous seminars and lectures, TV auditions, influencers streaming live feeds, awards’ ceremonies and more, amidst the hustle and bustle of buying, selling, and most importantly, trend scouting.

So what are the emerging trends for which we searched high and low? We did our job, so here is what’s on the beauty radar and what you’ll likely see more of at a retailer or computer screen near you.

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Clean and green. This is really an umbrella category that encompasses the entire clean beauty movement. Once a niche market of small brands, beauty with a conscience is all about intention and non-toxic products that perform at an optimum level. No longer satisfied with sub-par merchandise, vegan beauty means no animal byproducts and cruelty-free with a lengthy list of no-nos to be considered certifiably clean. Consumers want healthier and safer skin and makeup options with alternative ingredients that offer superior quality and performance.

Zero-waste is a growing sub-niche that is making inroads with brands that repurpose, reuse, and recycle leaving a zero-carbon footprint and reducing landfill. While this lifestyle may not suit everyone, those who opt in can now choose refillable and solid products, such as shaving and shampoo bars, with some brands eliminating packaging altogether.

CBD. It’s definitely the ingredient of the month, if not the year. Even some stalwart brands are adding a CBD line to their roster. While the verdict is still out on its efficacy in skincare, proponents sing its praises and tout its anti-inflammatory benefits.

Personalized and customizable. Driven by millennials, we observed a dearth of products and brands created for a very specific demographic, ingredient, or philosophy. Consumers want to feel unique and are seeking something that feels very personal. There also seems to be a growing demand for multi-use products and tools to simplify a busy schedule. Lifestyle-driven, consumers can expect to see more emerging brands that focus on a synergistic and balanced quality of life.


Trends to try

The lands south of the equator were a standout this year. From Australia, Plume Science is gaining serious recognition for its proprietary, nature-based lash and brow serums. Free of all toxins, Bondi Chic Skincare has developed an advanced technology of potent botanicals to create products that are both safe and effective.

Rich in essential oils and pure extracts, New Zealand’s bountiful resources are the force behind Geo Skincare, while the rugged and untamed land of Chile’s Patagonia is the foundation for Sur Origen.

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Sparse brows got you down? Before you indulge in pricey and possibly dangerous micro-blading, consider natural henna brow dyes from Om & Brahma and BrowXenna.

The no-chemical craze goes beyond skincare and makeup. Developed by a physician through extensive clinical trials, Spare My Hair is the only Minoxodil- and hormone-free hair regrowth system for both women and men. Save Me From gets to the root of hair damage driven by a patent-pending Fenugen technology sourced from India.

There are have and have-nots. The nutrient-rich Kakadu plum is the centre for DermaDoctor’s new line of high-potency vitamin C skincare line, while Switzerland’s Instytutium incorporates a retinol alternative in their super-potent RentinOil serum. Formulated sans water, wholly organic d’Alchemy is one of the most intriguing and scientifically progressive skincare brands we’ve seen. Also waterless, Miage touts La Milpa cactus as its source match the natural isotonic conditions of a healthy skin cell.

Despite a name that is better suited to a cookbook, Ecooking is an on-trend brand developed by Danish skincare guru Tina Søgaard. Beneath the sleek minimalist packaging are over 40 products for men, women, and babies, each of which is made up of 100 per cent organic oils, natural peptides and vitamins. Seemingly the polar opposite, Eisenberg Paris is a collection of skincare, makeup and fragrance in the uncompromising tradition of French luxury.

As noted, CBD is smoking hot these days. Global Xtracts is a new line of premium CBD products that includes stem-cell-enhanced skincare using organically grown hemp that is naturally abundant in cannabinoids. California-based Laguna Herbals débuted their new line of graceful cbd body care infused with beachy extracts of coconut and kokum butter. Although not formulated with hemp, Intoxicating Beauty is an innovative line of clean skin and body goods formulated with wine, spirits, sake, and craft brew that nourish and heal.

Just when you thought you’d seen every sheet mask on earth, Bawdy celebrates the beauty of the booty with a line of cheeky masks designed to smooth, firm and hydrate. For above-the-waist treats, My21 promises to turn back time with a sheet mask made of Bio-Cloud fabric which holds 13 times its weight to transfer more nutrients to the skin.

Finally, not all clean beauty brands are newbies. Suki Organic and Mychelle Dermaceuticals were on hand to show how it’s really done with wisdom and experience. •






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