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¡Cena spectacular!
Moorish lamb chops at Toro Bravo
Stanley
Moss visits a Spanish-themed eatery in the ever-popular
Northeast district of Portland, Or., Toro Bravo, helmed by one of
the city’s most memorable chefs
photographed by the author
SERIOUS FOODIES in Portland, Or.
remember chef John Gorham as the guy who used to make the amazing
sausages behind the Viande counter at City Market down on Northwest
21st, who then went on to cook world-class dinners at changeable
locations all over town under the business name Simpatica. Evolution
happens, and four months ago John and wife Courtney opened Toro
Bravo, a 60-seat Spanish-themed eatery in Portland’s trendy
Northeast district. They promptly garnered a Restaurant of the Year
award, after which John was named Chef of the Year by Portland
magazine. The place has been packed ever since, a vaulted street-level
space, furnished in natural wood and warm tones, with a modernist
twist.
The concept: lots of little portions, tapa-style,
which keep on coming until you're forced to howl ‘¡Bastantes!’
Lucire asked John to order for us on a recent gustatory expedition,
and we experienced a succession of authentic dishes, interpretations
which might have been served in the finest establishments in Andalucia,
classic preparations with the occasional North African twist, accented
by John's deft hand for spices.
The chef recommended a superb red wine, a 2001
Rottlan Torra Torroja del Priorat to kick start things, which proved
to be a sensational beginning. A small dish of pickled vegetables
and marinated olives launched the feast, priming the palate for
his signature sherry chicken liver mousse, served with two types
of bread, ethereal!
Marinated sheep’s cheese with rose petal
harissa and mint sailed out to the table accompanied by pimentos
de Padron, nearly identical to those classic roasted small green
Spanish peppers we sampled in Granada last month. In Spain there's
always a hot one in the bunch, which makes for entertaining dinner
conversation; at Toro Bravo the chilis stayed mild and delectable,
fruits of a scrupulously obsessive local grower.
Next up, Moorish pork pincho with lime pickled
onions, succulent and tender. A rather generous salad of singing
pig greens, garlanded with marinated beets, chopped egg and hazelnuts
arrived, followed by delicate salt cod fritters with aioli.
We still had room for more, and devoured seared
cauliflower with chopped eggs and salsa verde, tangy and aromatic
seared scallops with romesco served at piping temperature with perfect
gelatinous consistency in the center, and expertly grilled Moorish
lamb chops with grilled baby carrots and garlic chili brown butter
dazzling with the aftertaste of cumin.
We opted for the heap of chocolate almonds, which
appeared to be too abundant but got finished off in their entirety,
and sampled the apples baked to order with almond ice cream, which
needed to be ordered 20 minutes in advance, well worth the wait.
It’s hard to say ‘Adios’ after
such an amazing array of delectable food, and harder to stand up
from the table and stagger out into the cool Portland night. But
with a menu which changes daily, and a chef like John Gorham, it
will be tough to stay away from Toro Bravo. Bridgetown regulars
have already discovered this culinary oasis which doesn't take reservations,
so an early walk-in is advised.
Note: our entire cheque came to less than $150, yet another enticement
for a return visit to this superlative addition to the neighbourhood’s
vibrant restaurant scene. •
Toro Bravo
120 NE Russell Street
Portland, OR 97212
USA
Telephone 1 503 281-4464
www.torobravopdx.com
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View from the street
The sign at Toro Bravo
Bar at Toro Bravo
Pimentos de Padron
John Gorham
The concept: lots of little portions, tapa-style,
which keep on coming until you're forced to howl ‘¡Bastantes!’
Stanley Moss is travel editor of Lucire.
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