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fashion: the circuit

Time for reflashion—Moda LisboaTime for reflashion—Moda Lisboa

This season, fashion seems to be embracing other causes besides clothes and style, part of a global trend as Tiago Espirito Santo discovers at Moda Lisboa

AS WITH MANY SEASONS where there are major events in the world, Lisboa’s designers reflect the state of the world in their collections. In an era of greater conscience, models are refusing to wear anything related to animal cruelty and even fashion weeks are repulsed by over-skinny models.
   The world is changing as we know it and tradition is yet to be reinvented once again, even in the fashion business!
   An industry that perceived as somewhat superficial is now trying to show off its major concern for social development and worthy causes.
   Reflashion, a symbiosis between fashion and reflection, is the new “it” term, it appears. The understanding of how fashion impacts culture, how it merges into society and what its contribution seems to be.
   Following the footsteps for the global “reflashion” theme, Lisboa’s fashion week clinched to yet once again superb follow-up of designers who wanted to express their social view through their collections.


Miguel Vieira

Miguel Vieira, one of the most successful Portuguese designers, describes his summer collection like being in a ‘journey with friends’. Throughout his collection, the main characters confront distinct settings, assuming and embodying different personas that adapt to strange settings. Miguel leads us to an exciting journey that is reinforced through the use of colours that typically characterize his collections: black, white, gold and silver. Luxury reflects itself through the fabrics or accessories here.
   Miguel is always one of the biggest shows at Lisboa, chosen this season to be the first to present his collection on the runway.


Nuno Gama
20 Age Social Club was the theme behind Nuno Gama’s collection that translated the cosmopolitan feel of some African countries, such as Angola and Mozambique, in the 1960s.
   Inspired by a recent trip to this continent, Nuno Gama felt the need to incorporate textures and graphic design that was emblematic of this culture. His revival collection is a journey through the different atmospheres that inspired him but also as a celebration of his successful 20-year career.
   Although the collection had a retro feel to it, Nuno was able to incorporate a contemporary beat, mixing just a bit of classic design with a touch of formality.
   It was one of the most anticipated runway shows of the season and, subsequently, one of the most applauded by its creativity, innovation and quality.


Nuno Baltazar

Bertolucci’s movie The Sheltering Sky was the inspiration behind Nuno Baltazar’s collection. The African desert along with a speck of ’50s’ glamour gave a sense of nostalgia.
   Nuno Baltazar was able to create different emotional states using different textures, patterns and silhouettes. This collection was dominated by cotton, linen, silk in organza, satin, crèpes, embroideries and taffetas for formal dressing.


Ana Salazar
Black Is Not Always Back celebrated colour in Ana Salazar’s world.
   Usually known for her monochromatic collections, Ana Salazar bewildered her audience with colour. It was an “out of the box” collection, where the designer decided to abandon one’s comfort zone—resulting in one of Salazar’s most ambitious.
   Colours such as rose, orange and acid green acid were dominant in fabrics like organza, structured satins and waxed linen.




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Above: Nuno Baltazar.

Above: Ana Salazar.

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Lucire 2005 | The Global Fashion Magazine Lisboa’s fashion jackpot
Twenty-nine designers showcased their collections for autumn–winter 2008–9 in an increasingly world class Moda Lisboa, reports Tiago Santo
Adapted from issue 26 of Lucire
Lucire 2005 | The Global Fashion Magazine

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