Jewellery designer Lorenz
Bäumer creates dazzling pieces from his Paris base, collaborating
with the likes of Louis Vuitton and Guerlain. Lola Saab talks
to him about his inspirations and creations
PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE DESIGNER BY FRED
JEWELS MAY RANGE from simple pieces
to overly radiant and amazingly breathtaking complex creations.
They may define one’s personality or may exemplify and highlight
Paris-based jewellery designer, Lorenz Bäumer artistically
combines various elements to create jewellery representing great
sophistication. Bäumer designs watches, brooches, rings, bracelets,
necklaces, earrings, perfume bottles and other wonderful pieces,
either to wear or simply to hold. He forms luxurious creations,
marvellously dazzling and desirable to the eye.
The designer’s deep adoration for the art and
for beauty allows him to outline absolute detailed work and extravagant
designs. The highly talented jeweller beautifully constructs distinctive
and trendy work, portraying awe-inspiring creativity. His own line
is classified under three categories: poet, gardener and architect.
Each theme corresponds to Bäumer’s passions: one conveys
a poetic message, the other unfolds nature’s inevitable beauty
and the last is a form of masterful sculptural creations, sometimes
Since 1995, Bäumer’s showroom, located at
Place Vendôme in Paris, has welcomed his clients into a world
inspired by his vivid imagination, allowing his wonderfully unique
pieces to take centre stage. Profound colours spectacularly shine
High-end name brand, Louis Vuitton, collaborated with Lorenz Bäumer
to form a jewellery collection called L’âme du voyage
(The Soul of the Trip), which was unveiled and revealed to
the public in October 2009. Bäumer has also joined forces with
other brand names to form chic innovations such as the Le Rouge
G lipstick for the French perfume house, Guerlain.
Bäumer was recently one of the iconic fashion figures
to be featured at the French Institute Alliance Française’s
annual Fashion Talks series in New York.
We caught up with the talented designer who gave us
a first-class ticket on an unforgettable trip into his universe,
exposing his personal insights about his invigorating designs and
Lucire: Can you tell us how you began designing jewellery?
Lorenz Bäumer: I have always designed jewellery. It
started in my childhood
We always have this thing, I guess,
which relates us to our parents, and my parents were diplomats and
my mother would be my mother and she would put on the jewellery
and she would be a princess. So I always wanted to have that magic
stick which turns normal mothers into princesses. And so that is
how I got started into doing jewellery. Actually, I started doing
them with corks from champagne bottles and I would create them into
jewellery and I would give them to my mother as a very small kid,
and that has been a passion that has lasted ever since. It is not
only about designing jewellery; it is also about designing other
things as well
[I] could design lipsticks, furniture or watches
so there are a lot of ways to express your creativity.
What kind of emotions do you feel when you are designing?
It is called something like a flow. When you are designing,
it is almost like it flows when it goes really well. Sometimes it
could also be difficult, sometimes you can get stuck. But it is
a peaceful, flowing and happy moment when you design something which
you really like
so it is a way to evade yourself or to create
something that is not really in the present but in the future.
There are very interesting and happy moments, but there
is a lot of other things also that I do, which is like finding the
stones, working with the workshops, meeting some clients and also
running the company.
How do you decipher which stone to use for a certain creation?
You might start with a stone or you might start with an idea and
then try to find the stone. So there is not really a rule, it depends
on the moment and how you feel, what will inspire you. You know
if I design for someone specific, then it is obviously a very different
or I might design something I really love
and I will just design it for myself because I love it.
At the 2011 Oscars, actress Gwyneth Paltrow wore a pair of earrings,
a ring and a brooch from Louis Vuitton’s Soul of the Trip
jewellery collection. Could you elaborate a little more on what
her jewellery ensemble was based upon?
They were based upon very happy moments with a lot of colours,
feathers, happiness and movement
so it was about being happy,
basically what jewellery should be all about.
When you are designing for someone in particular, are there
certain aspects that you look for in the person?
I look a little bit at about everything. It is a mixture of their
personality, what they want to wear, for what occasion, how comfortable
they will be, how much they are willing to spend, how long they
are willing to wait. It is all these little ingredients I put together
then I design something for them.
You currently have a salon at Place Vendôme. Why did you
choose this particular location in Paris?
I chose this area not only because it is in the heart of Paris,
but because it is the heart of jewellery making
dreams of having a store on Place Vendôme because it is so
prestigious and historically, it’s been so important for the
world of jewellery.
Is there another brand name you plan to collaborate with?
No, I probably will keep on doing collaborations with Guerlain
and other people. I am just very happy like this, and I am already
very busy with everything that I have. And it takes a lot of time
to design some piece of jewellery, it is a great involvement.
How long does it usually take you to design a piece of jewellery?
You know, I will give you the proper answer, it takes forty-five
years to design a piece of jewellery
because, it might just
take a second, but it is from building up all of the experiences
and whatever I have to create that piece, and once you have the
design on paper then there comes the time when you need to go to
the workshop, then finding the stone and all that
can take from a couple of months to a year, depending on the complexity
of the piece.
Do you have any emotions that stir up when you see someone wearing
It is always a nice surprise when I see someone wearing my jewellery
that I don’t know. It is a great, interesting and fun moment
for me, but, then, we move on. All designers and the creative people
want to be loved and having somebody wear your creations, it means,
Oh, I love you creations. It really make[s] you feel
Is there a particular jewellery piece that stands as your favourite?
I made my own watch, with my own skull inside
It is actually
my own [skull] which we got out of the scanner. So it is something
that I designed for myself
I like that piece.
There are four pieces in the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris
in their collection, which I also love.
Can you tell us what your logo represents?
It actually took me awhile to find something that I like and that
represented me, so there were a few different ones before that one
then one day, I just found a way to link the L and
the B and then I noticed that it was a heart. So everybody
sees a heart in thereit is actually not a heart it is my initials,
so I think it really fits what we are trying to do. It is kind of
rounded; it has a lot of different meanings
When a logo or
a signature is good, it really represents, you know, what the company
is all about. I think it is really simple, but it works for me,
because my work is about love
Do you think about opening more salons in and around Paris or
eventually going international?
Perhaps, for now, we have some salons, because I thought, at that
specific time, that it was the right way to show my jewellery and
now I am thinking about doing it in other ways, too. If I get some
interesting opportunity, I might do something here in the States
or in China or in other places.
Is there a specific motto that represents your line?
I have a phrase that is my personal phrase, it is not the phrase
of the company. It is actually engraved around a watch which saysit’s
a Latin phrase, and it saysEach one is the artisan of
Why did you choose this specific phrase?
It was engraved on a fountain in my grandmother’s garden.
I thought my great-grandfather must have really liked it, so I just
Lola Saab is Paris editor of Lucire.