Francisco Costas latest obsession: texture.
Moving away from summers more fluid and languid
lined shapes, the collection this season saw a more refined focus
from designer Francisco Costa on all things texture. Bold graphic
and geometric 60s mod shifts, A-line skirts and cocoon coats
gave a canvas for the stars of the show, alpacas, cashmeres, calf
hair, jacquards and deep, rich, piled wools to shine upon. A monochromatic
palette of beige, camel, white and jet black allowed the fabrics
to speak. Precision cutting and interesting mixing of fabrics really
made the collection return to the Calvin Klein DNA.
Adrienne Vittadini organized a presentation for the spectators,
however shortly after the lights dimmed down, the presentation transformed
into a lively and fun fashion show. Seven older top models walked
the runway including Carol Alt, Roshumba Williams, Pat Cleveland,
Niki Taylor, Carmen dellOrefice, Irina Pantaeva and Frederique
van der Wal. Adrienne Vittadinis collection ranged from a
long-sleeved, knee-high chic red dress tightly embracing the body
to a casual long white skirt accompanied by a simple black top and
a leather vest. Each model included a touch of their personality
to the runway; Cleveland practically danced her way down the runway,
dellOrefice walked with grace as she turned from time to time,
always keeping a smile on her face.
by gardens of the Far East, the rock formations in nature, the play
of shadows and light and reflections upon water, red carpet favourite
designer Tadashi Sohji showed an impeccable collection of wearable,
sellable pieces that stayed true to form. Classic forms shaped this
collection: a neutral palette of ecru and snow white was shown alongside
jewel tones on magenta, cerulean blue, jade greens and mustards.
Dresses came in either cocktail or floor length and each one beautifully
embroidered, or embellished with organza, plumes of feathers or
fringing. Geometric déco and tribal jewellery finished off
the collection perfectly.
Inspired by her native motherland, Vivienne Tam took inspiration
from the costumes of the Kun Opera.
Structured coats with stand and oversized collars,
jackets with pagoda shoulders, and A-line skirts all had a subtle
touch of the orient while dresses were embroidered with traditional
leitmotifs of dragons, clouds and flowing rivers. Tam showed a much
more subtle hand this season, which made the pieces more wearable
and commercial and should see the pieces sell well. The colours
of the orientjade, crimson reds, navy and goldwere the
order of the day.
Hervé Léger by Max Azria
Hervé Légers bandage dress is an instantly recognizable
icon in the world of modern fashion. Hardware was used extensively
in the collection. Gold and silver were used not just as embellishments,
but as an integral part of the design; gold rectangles were sewn
in amongst the bands; while buckle rings and chains were interwoven
into the fabric of each dress. The collection recalled an almost
Barbarella feel with the models in knee-high cut-out leather
boots and the slick styling of the models hair and make-up.
A muted and controlled colour palette of beige, camel, black and
white keep things elegant.
Ivana Helsinki by Paola Ivana Suhonen, a wonderfully creative Finnish
designer, brought Fashion Week to a close. Ivana Helsinki is the
first Finnish brand to show at New York Fashion Week, and with the
overflowing crowd in the venue, it was surely a hit! The designer
incorporated flowing, sweet and classy dresses to portray a confident
and charming young woman. The ensembles were accompanied by a slightly
high-heeled pairs of leather boots designed with patches of different
shades of colour. Hair was wrapped in a considerably high chignon,
creating a delightfully new and stylish effect. The dresses were
loose, comfortable and alluring, aiming to a considerably younger
Sopheak Seng is fashion editor of Lucire. Lola Saab
is Paris editor of Lucire.