THOUGH SOME PEOPLE TRAVEL to Israel
to discover their religious and familial roots, savvy 21st travellers
looking for the trip of a lifetime spiritual experience
blending innovative luxury, eco-tourism, food and shopping offerings
will discover what Israelis and long-time expats have known for
years: everything thats old is not only new again, but the
uniquely Israeli lifestyle is constantly being rethought by and
for future generations.
Though one cannot ignore the gloriously displayed reminders
of civilization-defining moments from the ancient world, many Israelis
under 50 cheerfully expound on how the food, fashion, spa and beauty
findings makes Israel one of the most modern and progressive travel
experiences anywhere.
While Israels world history paradox is striking
(as enduring as human recorded history yet just over six decades
old), its state of being in world affairs is just as complex. While
Israels daily soap opera of political turmoil plays out on
a global, melodramatic scale in international newsmedia, the close-up
picture tells a different story. Small-town and rural Israel is
warmly idyllic. Neighbourhoods in both Jerusalem and Tel Aviv display
the colour and joie de vivre associated with sexy, sophisticated
destinations like Rio de Janeiro, Barcelona, Miami and Sydney rather
than a police state often depicted in news footage.
The golden Golan and glittering Galilee
Northern Israel presents itself as a Garden of Eden, albeit with
everyday sociopolitical realities that prevent it from turning into
Disneyland. The Galilee is recognized as religious tourism-and-pilgrimage
hub, with attractions that include Tiberius, Capernaum and the Mount
of Beatitudes. The Golan Heights carries a little bit of baggage
of political turmoil and border skirmishes. However, get past that
and you will discover Israels north is a region with much
to offer foodies, as well as wine drinkers, art and architecture
buffs, outdoors-y types and even shoppers.
Though Pausa
recently counted National Public Radio and top international news
services as guests during the most recent Golan Heights conflict
five years ago (with one reporter deftly commenting that it was
the best place to stay in wartime), it is best known locally as
a bastion of sanity, creativity and intellectual conversation that
starts at owners Avigdor and Einat Rothems dinner table. To
give the guests an idea of the home-grown pleasures that await them,
the Rotherms present them on arrival with a glass of their very
own lemoncello made from lemons grown on their property. Breakfasts
are flawless and abundant, and are often followed by a walk through
Avigdors gardens, where he will point out what plants and
fruits made it into the previous nights dinner.
Just like a visit to the Rotherm house, when you visit
Roberg restaurant in the village
of Livnim, you are-literally-part of Ilan Roburgs family.
Besides the fact that this restaurant will have you talking about
Robergs artsy-but-approachable approach to kosher food months
after the meal, they will send you home able to recreate those memories
in your own kitchen. Although there are glorious views of the Sea
of Galilee and nearby mountain ranges, you will be just as impressed
with the ongoing footage on several flat screen TVs
that show the different courses of your meal coming together in
a way that picks up where the Food Network leads off.
Mitzpe Hayonym,
founded in 1923, is a forerunner to the modern spa resort experience.
The Rosh Pina resort today balances the timeless (1,000 m of organic
hotel garden and fields with livestock, and views of Mt Hermon and
Galilee) with the new (age) via art gallery shops, classes, soap
making, bakery, spa and wine- driven Muscat restaurant. Guests will
also be enchanted by personalities like resident artist Sara Shoval,
a 65-year-old former dancer who lives her passion through the artwork,
art class instruction, garden walks and body work (spa) services
she provides for hotel guests.
With every guest, I try to pass on a bit of wisdom
my original dance teachers taught me years ago, explains Shoval
about the multi-faceted career and lifestyle she built for herself
at the resort. If you can dance, you can sculpt. If you can
sculpt, you can draw. If you can draw, you can write and move on
to new things throughout your life.
Ambitious travellers will discover not all treasures
and great discoveries are buried within, and the ancient city of
Safed (Tzefat), the highest community in Israel, reflects this.
The compact founding city of Kabbalah is packed with charming narrow
streets, landmarks, synagogues, jewellery salons and art galleries,
such as the Gallery of Mystical Art and Safed Candles. The 360-degree
views from the nearby Villa
Galilee Boutique Hotel are epic. However, pair them with Victorian
manor house appointments, an expansive gourmet breakfast spread,
vibrant floral landscaping and a nicely situated pool. What you
end up with is a literal piece of heaven.
Hail Cæsarea!
It is hard to imagine that just a few decades back, Cæsarea
(midway between Tel Aviv and Haifa) was best known as a beach with
a few interesting scattered ruins. In its new incarnationUNESCO
World Heritage sitevisitors can appreciate Biblical, Roman
and mediæval antiquities alongside a frozen mint-lemonade
or cappuccino at one of the relatively new cafes and via the high-tech
Time Tower that brings history alive, and in 3D.
The Roman Theatre still operates as a performance venue for international
and Israeli pop and rock acts. Diving enthusiasts can enjoy viewing
the underwater ruins in the archæological park beside the
port.
The Art Nova Gallery,
just outside the Time Tower, showcases statement-making art canvases
made from felt-like synthetic fibres that do not collect dust. Top
Israeli jewellery and home accessories designer Ester
Shahaf has her flagship store on site as well. The modern side
of Cæsarea offers a host of activities venues, from golf courses
to day spas, boutique hotels, the respected Ralli Art Museum and
a historic site that houses the remains of a magnificent palace
with a mosaic floor of amazing birds and a rare and unique table
top inlaid with glass and gold.
Jerusalem and Tel Aviv: the global villages
Though eternal city Jerusalem and youth-driven Tel
Aviv couldnt be more different, both offer exceptional shopping,
cultural and dining opportunities. While Tel Aviv is undisputedly
Israels fashion centre, Jerusalem is no slouch when it comes
to travelling in style.
The business-chic David
Citadel Hotel and edgy Mamilla
Hotel have location in their favour, with proximity to each
other, trendy modern neighbourhoods and Old Jerusalem. They also
have the advantage of sprawling terraces that make you feel as if
you could touch the peaks, and spires of history. In addition to
chic Israeli labels (Daniella Lehavi, Cassidi and Michal Negrin
on the high end; Fox and Castro representing his-and-hers street
wear) and international names (H. Stern, Mango, Topshop), Mamilla
Malls narrow corridor is also a thought-provoking outdoor
art gallery as well as a literal bridge between the modern and the
ancient.
New York-based Simon Hatcher, who co-owns the eco-friendly Israeli-American
line Mango Tree Fitted
Bangles refers me to his Israel-based partners David Aviv and
wife Helen Dukat, who arent afraid to find and recommend mind-blowing
food and fashion outside obviously trendy areas.
Though Jerusalem has more than its abundance of museums,
the couple points out that city parks, underrepresented in tour
guides (perhaps for the better) are as alive with culture as they
are with flora and fauna. Sacher Park is our version of Central
Parka large, meandering green park in the city, Dukat
says. Monster Park is cool because of the Nikki de Saint Phalle
sculptures that dominate the playground. Further afield, Park Denya
is a nice quiet place to take kids, while teens will like Park Gilo
with its skateboardingscooter ramp and proximity to Bethlehem
and a view of the notorious security fence, if youre so inclined.
Given the couples connection to fashion, a discussion
about shops is inevitable. I always tell people to stop by
a shop called Ethnics, at 34 Jaffa Road. Its a cooperative
of several well-known Israeli artists (Ayala Bar, Lali, Talma, Yoram
Aviram) started by my friend David Yom Tov, who now lives in New
York, says Aviv. For the best prices on traditional
Judaica, however, I recommend Meah Shearim and Geula. These are
Orthodox Jewish neighbourhoods, however, so be sure to dress appropriately.
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Mitzpe Hayonym view

Neve Tzedek

Roburg food

Villa Galilee

Tel Aviv skyline

Jerusalem skyline

Safed

Beach sunset

David Citade Hotel

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