Mastering the art of moderation

Deryn Schmidt rings in the summer trends with both playful and professional pieces
by Sopheak Seng
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY DERYN SCHMIDT

HAVING ONLY LAUNCHED her namesake label in spring of 2010, Deryn Schmidt has come along way and there is plenty more in her repertoire yet to come, as her selection for the New Generation group showing as part of this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week will prove.
   The skills taught to her by her Nana and her painstakingly delicate tailoring speak of a long love of sewing. These skills, paired alongside her decade-long stints with some of this country’s top fashion houses, have fully prepared this talented designer for the rigours of the fashion world.
   Deryn Schmidt’s spring–summer 2011–12 collection, entitled Around in Circles reflects the influences upon Schmidt’s art up to this point. For this collection, she has looked to the past to find inspirations, gathering inspiration from lines and shapes that either she herself has loved wearing, or simply seen and admired on others. Reinterpretation of those styles through fresh eyes utilizes all lines to flatter the female form while simultaneously offering edgy and modern wearable pieces.
   Easy-to-wear skirts, dresses and tunics are paramount in this collection, with finely tailored pants and shorts tapping into the coming season’s trends by offering an alternative masculine look. Her suits are tailored, thus allowing the true female form to shine through; but do not project a stuffy attitude, the bright teal injecting an element of fun into any working wardrobe. Staying true to the current trend, contrasting panels in tunics and waistcoats hit all the right notes for colour blocking and present a vibrant yet professional image.
   Staying true to the Deryn Schmidt signature, pieces come only in the most natural fibres of silk, cotton and fine knits. The design of the clothes is intended to be easy to wear, thus allowing for greater enjoyment. Pops of watermelon, coral, bright orange, teal and fire engine red indicate her great love of colour with the warm beige, snow white, gunmetal, blush pink and deep navy staying true to her love of balance. She also caters to the woman who wants that stunning piece with her standout abstract floral print, available in sulphur yellow, offering to add another dimension to any wardrobe.
   The collection is comprised of all entirely beautiful pieces, but there were a few high notes. The Ebb & Flow skirt, which acts as a versatile must-have for any summer wardrobe, can be worn not only as a skirt, but also as a breezy maxi dress. The Swivel and Halo dress also holds promise to become a summertime favourite, its design lines elongating and flattering curves while a beautiful pin-tuck detailing allows it to stand out from the crowd of dresses.
   With this calibre of work coming out only three seasons after the launch of the label, we can continue to expect great things from this designer and come Fashion Week, we will be excited to have this next new rising design star introduced to the world.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion & Beauty Editor

Sopheak Seng is fashion and beauty editor of Lucire.

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