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Lucire: Fashion
the circuit

Emilio de la Morena A soft and feminine look for de la Morena’s fifth outing.

London Fashion Week: effortless femininity

Ella Garland-Levett and Katherine Thomson dissect day two of London Fashion Week’s very feminine spring–summer 2012 collections


DAY TWO at London Fashion Week and femininity is clearly fashionable. Designers such as Ashis, Clements Riverio, Daks, Emilio de la Morena, Jaeger and Jasper Conran revealed their collections for spring–summer 2012. Overall there are softer lines, sweeter skirts and for many a classically simple, sportswear inspired approach.



Spring flashed down the runway as Ashish flaunted florals in his spring–summer collection for 2012. The collection is much dreamier and romantic than pervious collections. This year the shapes are simple but the designs are strong.

The London-based designer showcased his range in ‘sequins, glamour, sportswear and more sequins’, and for the first time using the very feminine floral motif. While keeping true to his signature sequin style, Ashish Gupta mixed it up with bold floral prints in electrifying colours.

Inspired by van Gogh, the patterns in Ashish collection consist of large-scale flowers contrasted against backgrounds of brick walls, chessboards, leopard and zebra print. There are also floral separates, all smothered in sequins for a very dramatic effect.

Although the vibrant patterns exuded femininity, the collection was reigned in by Ashish fondness for simplistic sportswear. The garments are all loose and wearable. They have simple lines, zips and pockets for function and ease. The collection consists of T-shirts, loose shorts, shifts, skits and baggy jackets. Gupta says, ‘I try and keep all my shapes really clean and really minimal.’

The collection embodies an easy, low-maintenance girl that looks effortlessly sexy. The models were styled to look as if they had spent the night in the garden. Their hair was loose and tousled, teased into a ponytail or plait. They had sleepy eyes and dark, sultry lips bringing in a ’90s grunge æsthetic. Finally the Dr Marten’s brilliantly contrasted the floral arrangement creeping up their legs, a perfect way to tie the look together.


Clements Ribeiro

Pattern was popular on day two at London Fashion Week. Clements Ribeiro exuded femininity through his use of fabric. Inacio Riberio said, ‘We wanted prints that were highly original but not overpowering.’ Ribeiro has used lace and printed silk with vintage textiles combined with a pattern of distorted checkers.

The simple shaped garments are easy, comfortable and chic. Also inspired by sportswear, there are long shorts, loose yet slim-fitting trousers, T-shirts, raglan sleeves, racer back and silk shirt dresses. They are sweetly complemented with cashmere cardigans and matching vests.

The ‘very easy to wear’ collection is styled with big, sexy, messy hair. Although the shoes were very high, the Velcro strap adds to the sportswear æsthetic, designed with Charlotte Olympia.


DAKS took us into summer with a trip to a British coastal resort in the ’50s. Sheila McKain-Waid, the new head of womenswear, showcased classic elegance for the spring–summer 2012 collection.

The nautical colour pallet of white, navies, creams and a hint of red created patterns of deckchairs, stripes and a rope print.

Full-skirted silhouettes defined waists and sleeveless, button up collars were key to portraying the theme of this collection. Also featuring in the collection was bias-cut halter neck dresses, romper suits and pleated skirts.

Staying true to the British summer, short shorts are paired with raincoats or slouched hoodies. Mid-calf full skirts splay open revealing cheeky hot pants underneath.

The hair is pulled back in a low knotted bun reminiscent of retro glamour. The flat leather sandal gives a relaxed feel for a sweet, cute and fun summer look.


Emilio de la Morena
Emilio de la Morena captured the audience with a sur­prisingly girly display. For the designer’s fifth season he brought a soft femin­ine, inno­cence with the sugges­tion of seduction.

Beau­tifully feminine organza circle skirts danced down the runway in lilac and ballet pink. The full skirts are teasingly cut away to show off the mini-dresses beneath. Delicate and very intricate dresses are fitted together with ruched chiffon, origami silk and sheer panels.

The bright feature pieces are inspired by American clay sculptor Michael Lucero with multi-coloured striped placement print.





Clements Ribeiro

Emilio de la Morena



Related articles
Lucire 2011 | The Global Fashion Magazine

London Fashion Week spring–summer 2012, day 2 videos
Video from day two of London Fashion Week: DAKS, Clements Ribeiro, Ashish, Julien Macdonald, Jasper Conran, Emilio de la Morena, Jaeger London, House of Holland, J. W. Anderson, John Rocha, Issa, Jonathan Saunders, Vivienne Westwood and others

Lucire 2011 | The Global Fashion Magazine London Fashion Week, spring–summer 2012, day 1 photos and videos
Our day one coverage from London Fashion Week sees both photography by Douglas Rimington and video of the collections
photographed by Douglas Rimington/



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