 
 
Above Bringing together seductive
models who embrace their ferociously feminine side and men
portraying masculinity at its finest, Jean Paul Gaultier presented his autumn–winter 2012–13 couture collection.
Below Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy shows us the compatibility of vast soft materials such as leather, fur and silk.
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Fashion can define one’s personality: in many ways it brings forward the wearer’s vivid imagination. As summer began in the busy streets of Paris, designers prepared to present their couture collections.
Jean Paul Gaultier
There are designers who take their overly extravagant
and sometimes outgoing creations deliberately to liberate women
by the way they dress, symbolizing their exuberant persona.
Yves Saint Laurent liberated women by allowing
them to feel sexy in a pair of pants, a trend that broke barriers
between both sexes. Similarly the legendary French designer, Coco
Chanel, allowed women to breathe by eliminating the corset, which
they were used to constantly wear.
While such designers attempted
even the slightest changes that dramatically transformed fashion,
Gaultier also freed men by introducing the ‘men’s skirt’
in 1985. Some may consider it as being a feminine garment but, in
reality, it expands men’s wardrobes and adds to a man’s feeling of
freedom in society.
Gaultier is an haute couture designer who also defines
women in an overly elegant manner. His first step into fashion was
in 1970 when Pierre Cardin hired the young 18-year-old as an assistant. He had no formal training in
design but his sketches caught the eye of the famous couturier.
In 1976, Gaultier presented his own first collection.
From then
on, it didn’t take long for Gaultier to tread his path into the
world of fashion, constructing original, stunning designs that
people began to recognize and appreciate on the catwalk. One particular
piece that comes to mind is the striped sailor’s shirt that appeared
in 1984.
The designer has not only focused on menswear: women
also have the opportunity to indulge and show off fun, fierce and
flirtatious styles. Gaultier presented his new season’s collection
in Paris on July 4, 2012. He once again brought together seductive
models who embrace their more ferociously feminine side as the men
portrayed masculinity at its finest.
In May 2012, Gaultier was a
member of the jury for the main competition during the Cannes Film
Festival, making it the first time a fashion designer would be involved. He stuck with the film industry’s
vibes and designed his new collection following the theme of movies,
and one in particular which screened at Cannes, called Confession
of a Child of a Century. The film featured Pete Doherty, who
made his film début as a nineteenth-century character.
With a shiny
black catwalk and a dark red background, each ensemble stuck out
like a three-dimensional image. Some models wore their hair tightly
back, wrapped with a black band around their foreheads, while others
wore nineteenth-century top hats. The show included the constant use of
black balanced with blasts of gold, purple and shades of white.
A metallic cape with gold lining highlighted chic, colourful
textures. Gaultier has the capacity to add fabulous details that
would surely make the wearer stand out amongst a crowd.
Givenchy
From Gaultier’s fabulous touch to Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy, we move from modern chic to classic elegance.
When talking about fashion, one may easily associate
the unforgettably beautiful actress, Audrey Hepburn. Many remember
Hepburn’s pose embraced by jewels, wearing a high bun as she gave
a half smile while a cigarette dangled from a large holder
in her mouth. The highlight of the image revolved around the column
dress she wore, designed by Hubert de Givenchy, whom she called her
‘best friend’ and whom he referred to as his ‘sister.’
The late beloved actress wore the iconic dress in Blake Edwards’
famous romantic comedy, Breakfast at Tiffany’s in the
1960’s. The new collection revived such a look with slight
transformations according to Tisci’s extravagant taste.
Givenchy’s autumn–winter 2012–13 haute couture collection was presented
at an upscale Parisian mansion. Givenchy’s shows are exclusive,
presenting a few detailed creations that seem delicate to the touch
but fierce to the eye. The magic in each of the ten designs presented
falls mainly on elegance and grace that is intended to be deeply
highlighted. The forms of each dress loosely hug the wearer’s waist
and fall like columns. A woman of a taller stature
is evoked wearing highly eccentric features together with capes
and substantial eyewear; vast soft materials included leather, fur
and silk.
Tisci proves how much less is more as he adds
hidden detailed aspects that Givenchy is,
and will always be, known for. •
Lola Saab is Paris editor of Lucire.
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