Lola Cristall is Paris editor of Lucire.

New York’s back in the sunshine

Lola Cristall chooses her top picks from the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York spring–summer 2015 runways, resplendent with sharp colours and radiant hues
photographed by Frazer Harrison, Dan Lecca, Randy Brooke and Mike Coppola

Lela Rose

Look: The designer is renowned for her sheer elegance and simplicity. Rose turned to Japan for inspiration, with polka dots and bold floral creations, while shirts had a kimono cut at the front. Floral blossoms featured on sheer fabrics, using very subtle hues.

Vibe: The catwalk’s background was a black-and-white painting of a social scene, neatly offsetting the designs. The looks were mixed with an amusing, upbeat tune.



Desigual

Look: The collection’s inspiration focused on ‘freshly cut’ floral from what they call an ‘imagery garden.’ Short dresses highlighted long, lean legs and encouraged the wearer to embrace the spring fever. Casual looks included longer dresses, shorts and pants, while floral headdresses added extra chic. Flamboyant colours endowed the collection with a sense of absolute optimism.

Vibe: Fabulously bright with vivid floral designs on the runway. Spectators experienced a field of floral luxury, from the atmosphere to the clothing. Models, including Adriana Lima, kept a smiling face, helping with the optimistic mood.



Carolina Herrera

Look: The collection expressed ‘the colour code of a flower.’ Colours were soft and serene, from the tranquillity of white to the brightness of yellow. Long, sheer silk dresses and tight, hip-hugging skirts with matching three-quarter-sleeved tops provided geometry and elegance. Make-up was minimal with hair perfectly tightened back.

Vibe: Taking place in the tents’ larger venue, the idea of European flair took over. The music stayed consistent with a buoyant melody, as the looks transformed from slightly casual to overly formal.



Skingraft

Look: Skingraft’s funky and gothic-like creations comprised four specific elements in mind: bone, blood, smoke and earth, creating softer, lighter components. Inspired by ‘Santeria and Mexican prayer alters’, the overall look evoked chic with a twist. Long, loose-fitted tops over tight hip-hugging pants or a pair of shorts featured whites and dabs of blazing, fiery tinges. Skingraft’s Jonny Cota collaborated with Jordan Eagles, a blood artist, to depict prints with eerie and mystical features for both menswear and womenswear.

Vibe: Slightly upbeat and mystical in a crowded venue, filled with celebrities including Whoopi Goldberg, Perez Hilton and 2 Chainz.