Lola Cristall is Paris editor of Lucire.
Lola Cristall reports from New York Fashion Week’s fall–winter 2016–17 shows, finding that ethnic influences and urban armour played on our favourite US designers’ thinking for the season
photographed by Dan Lecca, Randy Brooks, Nina Choi, Peter Stigter, Monica Felix, and courtesy designers
Nicholas and Christopher Kunz, the sister-and-brother team, presented a bold collection on the runway at Moynihan Station. The looks, inspired by a desert community from the 1970s entitled Arcosanti, featured thrilling, nomadic and highly modern designs. The theme is based on the ideology that ‘life is in the thick of things.’ The models looked fierce with leather headpieces, matched with dramatic hand-carved hair picks, large overcoats, dramatic capes, high-collar jackets, open-collar coats, and tightly strapped high-waisted leather belts amongst the layering effects. The Nicholas K. wearer underlines style and daring charm.
Look: The prominent and much celebrated designer presented a collection based on a mix of different cultures, with a sense of authenticity, respecting indigenous traditions. Voluminous knits, floor-length dresses, pleated skirts, balmacaan coats and opulent cape structures gave an ornate touch. Textures and prints were bold and highly detailed, adding touches of an intensely refined colour scheme.
Vibe: Amongst an enthusiastic crowd of aficionados at the largest venue at the site, the show was an absolute celebration of traditions coming together.
The Los Angeles-based fashion house focused on elegance and femininity for fall 2016, under creative director Jene Park. Entitled the 90291 collection, representing the Venice, California zip code, the collection takes its inspiration from the attractive seaside town west of LA. The 90291 collection similarly epitomized the vivacious energy with enticing silhouettes and contrasts. The æsthetics of vivid dark red, off-white, deep black and light grey injected a welcome colour to proceedings. The show also revealed a Disney’s Alice through the Looking-Glass capsule collection, influenced by the upcoming movie, bringing together a fantasy reverie and rock ’n’ roll effect. Ruffles, deep V-neck tops, tight-fit leather pants and glimmering Swarovski crystals highlighted its stunning creativity.
Look: Reem Acra’s designs are gracefully feminine, exquisitely sheer and luxuriously bold. The Secret World of the Femme Fatale collection includes mysterious and enticing charm, with bellowing trails, silk dresses with embroidered details and chiffon. Strapless, asymmetrical or plunging necklines defined sensuality and elegance. Acra used clever visual effects to give the impression that the fabrics were more sheer than they really were, preserving the modesty of her red-carpet clients while making sure they get noticed by the paps and media.
Vibe: Reem Acra’s fashion shows are notorious for their high-end atmosphere with an upbeat flair. Models floated on the sheer black waxed floor, as the crystals glimmered and shone.
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Autumn in the city
Lola Cristall selects her favourite autumn–winter 2015–16 looks from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, a season where glimpses of nature shone through the urban settings of the collections
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