Baglioni chronicles

Punta Ala
The horizon cannot have appreciably changed since 1974, when Roberto Polito built his first establishment here in Punta Ala, facing the islands of the Tuscan archipelago.

From the terrace of Hotel Cala del Porto, situated on a promontory above the marina and set among Maremma pines, distant Corsica is visible off to the left, with magnificent Elba straight ahead. To the north on the mainland reside the historic cities of Piombino and Carbonifera. This area’s historic excavations date back to Paleolithic times. Sites of iron mines established by the Romans can still be found on the island of Elba.

The sea cannot be rushed, nor can a voyage under sail. Once you cast off, it could be days before you return. If you can persuade your captain to set sail, he will plot a course to Portoferraio on Elba. You cross the white-capped channel, the same route which Napoléon Bonaparte took 200 years ago when he sailed into the tiny port on the north shore of the celebrated island. Napoléon spent almost a year of compulsive activity, building a road system, raising defences, draining marshes, renovating palaces, plotting his escape and putting down a miners’ uprising which he caused after levying taxes on the poor fellows. A year later he left town, bound for Paris, eventual defeat at Waterloo, and final exile on the isle of St Hélèna. Despite the sad end to his story, people here still gratefully remember Bonaparte, in fact a mass has been said for him daily in local churches for the two centuries since he departed.

My plan is a more modest one: I shall stroll ancient lanes and seek out a table at an open air portside cafe, and sample a frate, the local doughnut which goes so well with one of those strong Italian coffees. Less ambitious than Napoleon, but immediately, sweetly gratifying. •

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