FASHION Lola Cristall chooses her favourites among New York’s finest as she reviews their fall 2018 collections
Photographed by Dan Lecca, Frazer Harrison, and Edward James
Lola Cristall is Paris editor of Lucire.
Dan Liu’s enchanting autumn–winter 2018–19 collection includes attractive knee-high boots, suave platforms and sophisticated pumps, tastefully embroidered dresses, off-the-shoulder pieces, lace-adorned creations and short hip-hugging ensembles. His radiant feminine touch and glamorous style revolved around the 1977 James Bond film, The Spy Who Loved Me, with jaw- (or is it Jaws?) dropping creations, based on the seductive Bond-girl flair, spectacularly radiated. Bold, rouge, classy sunglasses and sophisticated accessories accompanied each ensemble; this collection showed true confidence, creativity and fashion-forward allure. Dan Liu emphasizde femininity with stylish, contemporary boldness that clearly portray an absolute 007 effect. Customers will be Bach for more.
Irina Vitjaz, founded in 1999, has been a New York Fashion Week show-stopper for the past three seasons. For fall–winter 2018–19, Vitjaz continues to impress crowds with her array of rich fabrics, vibrant colour scheme and opulence. The upcoming season is specifically based on ‘the woman who can do it all and look feminine and elegant doing so,’ according to the designer. Her aristocratic background, with close links to the Russian tsars, comes through in designs of grandeur and immaculately distinct couture creativity.
Look: Feminine styles, simple evening dresses, chic ensembles and flowing gowns adorned with Swarovski elements for a dab of sparkle and shine—this collection is reminiscent of a typical Grace Kelly. Beauty, elegance and sophistication are what the collection is all about. From one style to the next, Vitjaz embraced vibrant luxury and immense sophistication.
Upbeat, chic and elegant are what the Vivienne Tam collection is all about. The fall–winter 2018–19 season transported guests through the Himalayas to Tibet, a journey that contributed to the collection’s beauty, elegance and absolute feminine allure. The new season’s collection was classified under three main themes: unity, wholeness and infinity. Stunning fabrics ranged from wool and silk to techno-fabric, lace and tulle mesh, contributing to warmth and comfort.
Wang Tao’s Enlightenment Empress collection is based on Catherine the Great, Empress of Russia. As the country’s longest ruling female leader, she serves as an inspirational figure embracing an appreciation of the arts and culture. The collection highlights the strength of a woman along with her beauty and phenomenal grace. Wang, also branded as the Queen of Suit, injected a slight masculine twist: a military uniform is transformed with refined lines and an elegant silhouette.
Look: Bold hues of red, black, white, grey and military green were the collection’s principal colours. Gorgeous coats, hip-hugging skirts, turtleneck tops as well as thigh-high dresses each conveyed profound sophistication.
Designer Vivienne Hu’s collection revives the beauty and sensation of the Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. Also known as the Thousand Buddha Grottoes, the inspirational caves are located in Gansu, China. Historical features are brought to life. Asymmetrical ensembles, off-the-shoulder evening gowns and the layering of a tight-wasted overcoat exemplified of Hu’s art, with Chinese-inspired elegance.
Custo Dalmau ensures his wearers are brave enough to defy the norms, putting forward a slew of hues and an array of fabrics as well as a range of styles. Whether mini-dresses or maxi, the styles are absolutely original and innovative, flaunting skin and creative details from embroidery and feathers to appliqués and patchwork. The show’s message revolves around the ‘Yes, this is me’ concept underlined by a pair of shades or an eye-catching multicoloured handbag.
The Helen Yarmak wearer exudes tremendous grace and refinement, bringing European flair to fashion week. The designer’s new collection, Black Mood, is based on the idea of linking the brightest stars to a darker night. The astrological signification is metaphorically attributed to the wearer.
Vibe: Tucked away in a private penthouse showroom, overlooking Fifth Avenue in New York, Helen Yarmak invited a select few to discover her new season’s collection. The internationally recognized Moskva-based fashion house stands out for its spectacularly vast selection of high-end pieces including accessories, furs and crocodile purses, with precise detail and romantic elements. •
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What are our favourite looks right now from New York’s designers? Lola Cristall makes her picks. Next week, we look at her choices for fall
Photographed by Dan and Corina Lecca, Frazer Harrison, Edward James, Kevin Sturman and Monica Schipper
From issue 38 of Lucire
The end of convention
Times may be uncertain, but designers are sending a clear message: it’s time to shake off convention in New York, as Lola Cristall chooses her favourites from the autumn–winter 2017–18 shows
Photographed by Thomas Kletecka and Dan Lecca
From issue 37 of Lucire
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Selected team Instagram accounts Jack Yan | Sopheak Seng | Elyse Glickman | Stanley Moss | Paula Sweet | Joanne Gair | Lola Cristall | Jody Miller | Jamie Dorman | Summer Rayne Oakes | Doug Rimington | Tanya Sooksombatisatian