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Alexandra Moura
In Moura’s spring–summer 2010 collection, Following … in
Red, the inspiration comes from the early 1920s and the 1980s.
The red colour represents the wish and the desire; the way it’s
used brings conveys the strength, the love and the joy for life.
Other key colours for this collection include black, pink and a
hint of silver along with design features such as piping, double
collars and trimmings. The designer says, ‘I liked the fresh preppy
looks in fluid jersey twin-sets and the ones with “twisted
yuppie” shirts and matching shorts.’
 
Ana Salazar
A light and fluid silhouette is Salazar’s design æsthetic
for summer 2010. She has created a collection that combines the
use of draping with ruffles and pleats. Romantic yet sophisticated,
this collection promises to please the modern, urban female consumer.
The key materials that are used in this collection
are silk, chiffon, jersey knitting, wool and satin with lacquered
finishing. Hues such as matte and brilliant black, citric green
and cobalt blue make each piece stand out with the help of abstract
prints in smudgy tones of pink, green and orange.
 
Filipe Faísca
Faísca’s collection is all about fusion and the reinterpretation of
African cultures in harmony with a modern, contemporary lifestyle.
An oversized, fluid structured silhouette took centre-stage, playing
upon masculinity versus femininity. The pieces were created from
contrasting fabrics such as tough leather paired with delicate silk
china crêpe and georgette crêpe, in tones of black,
white, cocoa, skin rose, flaming red and deep blue.
 
Jose Antonio Tenente
Glory nights. Dance floor. Funk chic. Glamorous soul. The sophisticated
atmosphere of the late ’70s inspired the mixture of silhouettes,
colours—fuschia, scarlet and violet. Retro patterns were at the
core of Jose Antonio Tenente’s collection.
 
Katty Xiomara
Sensuality, delicacy, elegance, sophistication and passion. Xiomara’s
wild flower inspiration translates into a colourful and feminine
collection, full of rich and delicious textures, patterns and overlays
of fabric.
 
Miguel Vieira
In a search for harmony and inspiration, Vieira’s collection reflects
an exoticism only found in deep Africa. Exuberance. Fantasy. Seduction.
What else would you expect from Miguel?
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Luis Buchinho
Buchinho’s collection was inspired by underwater images of Medusa,
capturing their wavy movements through asymmetrical construction.
The silhouette consisted of long and fluid versus short and structured
shapes. Asymmetry was evident in nearly every garment of the collection,
creating dynamic silhouettes. The colour palette showed hues of
strong blue, mauve, sky blue, anise, white, pearl, black, pink flour
and orange.
Nuno Baltazar
Streets, sounds, textures, colours—one emotional trip, one
smile straight from the heart. Baltazar’s designs for summer 2010
are a blend between major European trends with a speck of African
motifs, underplaying the modernity of the collection. Colours like
white sand, ivory, argyle, cinnamon, sanguine, sepia, night blue
and black contrast with shades of coral fuchsia, blue, emerald,
oil and red.
Nuno Gama
L’Homme de Lisbonne: Gama’s inspiration come from
the avid lovers of beauty, luxury and novelty, who proclaim their
distinctiveness by reinventing habits, challenging prejudice and
setting their own set of rules. The collection comprises hybrid
examples of sportswear clothing. Details of the interior lining
are visible on the outside, symbolizing change, while appealing
to a technological society.
Pedro Pedro
Skin-tight, sculptured clothing. Conceptual glamour. Sexy urban
women ready to hit the beach scene. Slim shapes contrast with more
casual clothing pieces inspired by urban sport.
Ricardo Preto
Ricardo’s collection, entitled Tiger Love, symbolizes force
and boldness, incorporating the male and the female sides of wisdom,
transmutation, force, braveness and serenity. She lives in her jungle
habitat, protected and secure. Preto’s collection stood out in vibrant
tones such as saffron yellow, klein blue, blue–grey, brick,
amethyst, red and beige. Main fabrics used were chiffon, twill and
jersey. •
Tiago Espirito Santo is Lisboa correspondent for Lucire.
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