Tiago Espirito Santo attends the latest Moda
Lisboa, where the mood was less vibrant than at previous years shows
JUST LIKE MANY OTHER FASHION WEEKS around the globe, Lisboa’s was
no exception in reflecting an unstable fashion climate.
Portuguese designers expressed their uncertainty and
qualms in their autumn–winter 2010 collections, using darker themes
and heavy textiles in their silhouettes.
Many have struggled along the way to pursue their love
for fashion and are now clueless regarding their future and their
In an industry where imagination, make-believe and
fairy tales are the main source of inspiration, everything is becoming
very real and put into perspective in these troubled times.
So, it made much sense to label this fashion week as
‘heartcore’, the theme given by the organizers: although passion
for fashion might still be valid for some, others may want
to step out of fantasyland and confront reality to see what future
is out there.
Tenente’s collection celebrates the retro power feeling of clothes
and textiles, combining a soft yet strong silhouette. Despite the
simplistic concept behind the collection, the feminine silhouette
translates into a well-rounded body, emphasizing waist and hips.
A refined, sensitive æsthetic defines Miguel’s collection.
The almond trees in flower blossom, symbolizing feminine beauty
and the courage of the samurais. Miguel’s collection reflects the
philosophy of Japanese life and desire for simplicity, purity and
attention to detail.
Aleksandar’s collection is no surprise. A very sharp and contemporary
look defines a strong, bold, heroic woman that won’t just settle
for second-best. Great cut, design and use of leather and pleating.
Usually known for her monochromatic collections, Ana Salazar’s
collection was again about celebrating an austere woman that believes
in dressing herself in power clothing. Combinations of shining matte, tweed, plastic-woven wool,
fake leather, bouclé
wool and damask silk were combined with colours such as aqua green,
black, grey and blood red.
|Although passion for fashion might
still be valid for some, others may want to step out of fantasyland
and confront reality to see what future is out there|
The ’40s provide the inspiration for this collection, where the
mood and soul of the era inspire very feminine silhouettes and gracious
beauties. Quality, sobriety and austerity define the fabrics and
cuts chosen by the designer.
The autumn–winter 2010 collection was inspired by the life of Marquis
Structured in three different lines of development,
the collection recreates environments that personify her emotional
states, her journeys and her passions.
Strict silhouettes with romantic details contrast with
sophisticated looks and extravagant volumes in wool and silk crèpe,
metallic chambray, satin duchesse and silk dupion punctuated with
In a more delicate and subtle example of baroque, the collection
relives and interprets the fixed movements of this style and era,
using smooth and decorated fabrics, with rigid forms.
Pedro’s collection is a bold attempt to reinterpret the colour
black through an elegant and luxurious way of mixing light and shadow,
short and long, masculine and feminine, glossy and matt.
Everyday fabrics guarantee a level of classicism, giving rise to
a more contemporary melody. There were rigid flannels,
mixed with plaids and tweeds; and natural fibres, mixed with silks
Faisca used overlap and asymmetry to create a visual fluid
effect. Classical clothes pieces have been reinterpreted by a modern
and contemporary mood.
Tiago Espirito Santo is Lisboa correspondent for Lucire.
Jose Antonio Tenente, Miguel Vieira
Aleksander Protic, Ana Salazar
Nuno Gama, Filipe Faisca