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Nuno Baltazar This autumn–winter 2010 collection was inspired by the life of Marquis de Jácome.

 

Heartcore Tiago Espirito Santo attends the latest Moda Lisboa, where the mood was less vibrant than at previous years’ shows   JUST LIKE MANY OTHER FASHION WEEKS around the globe, Lisboa’s was no exception in reflecting an unstable fashion climate.    Portuguese designers expressed their uncertainty and qualms in their autumn–winter 2010 collections, using darker themes and heavy textiles in their silhouettes.    Many have struggled along the way to pursue their love for fashion and are now clueless regarding their future and their business.    In an industry where imagination, make-believe and fairy tales are the main source of inspiration, everything is becoming very real and put into perspective in these troubled times.    So, it made much sense to label this fashion week as ‘heartcore’, the theme given by the organizers: although “passion for fashion” might still be valid for some, others may want to step out of fantasyland and confront reality to see what future is out there.   José Antonio Tenente Tenente’s collection celebrates the retro power feeling of clothes and textiles, combining a soft yet strong silhouette. Despite the simplistic concept behind the collection, the feminine silhouette translates into a well-rounded body, emphasizing waist and hips.   Miguel Vieira A refined, sensitive æsthetic defines Miguel’s collection. The almond trees in flower blossom, symbolizing feminine beauty and the courage of the samurais. Miguel’s collection reflects the philosophy of Japanese life and desire for simplicity, purity and attention to detail.   Aleksandar Protic Aleksandar’s collection is no surprise. A very sharp and contemporary look defines a strong, bold, heroic woman that won’t just settle for second-best. Great cut, design and use of leather and pleating.   Ana Salazar Usually known for her monochromatic collections, Ana Salazar’s collection was again about celebrating an austere woman that believes in dressing herself in power clothing. Combinations of shining matte, tweed, plastic-woven wool, Although “passion for fashion” might still be valid for some, others may want to step out of fantasyland and confront reality to see what future is out there fake leather, bouclé wool and damask silk were combined with colours such as aqua green, black, grey and blood red.   Ricardo Preto The ’40s provide the inspiration for this collection, where the mood and soul of the era inspire very feminine silhouettes and gracious beauties. Quality, sobriety and austerity define the fabrics and cuts chosen by the designer.   Nuno Baltazar The autumn–winter 2010 collection was inspired by the life of Marquis de Jácome.    Structured in three different lines of development, the collection recreates environments that personify her emotional states, her journeys and her passions.    Strict silhouettes with romantic details contrast with sophisticated looks and extravagant volumes in wool and silk crèpe, metallic chambray, satin duchesse and silk dupion punctuated with overlaying tulle.   Katty Xiomara In a more delicate and subtle example of baroque, the collection relives and interprets the fixed movements of this style and era, using smooth and decorated fabrics, with rigid forms.   Pedro Mourão Pedro’s collection is a bold attempt to reinterpret the colour black through an elegant and luxurious way of mixing light and shadow, short and long, masculine and feminine, glossy and matt.   Nuno Gama Everyday fabrics guarantee a level of classicism, giving rise to a more contemporary melody. There were “rigid” flannels, mixed with plaids and tweeds; and natural fibres, mixed with silks and cashmeres.   Filipe Faisca Faisca used overlap and asymmetry to create a visual “fluid” effect. Classical clothes pieces have been reinterpreted by a modern and contemporary mood. •   Tiago Espirito Santo is Lisboa correspondent for Lucire.

Jose Antonio Tenente, Miguel Vieira Aleksander Protic, Ana Salazar Ricardo Preto Katty Xiomara Pedro Mourão Nuno Gama, Filipe Faisca

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