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Caroline Charles Left Holly Fulton used prints to good effect, with a sense of uptown Manhattan.

From feathers to ﬁghters

Day four of London Fashion Week was about contrasts, says Morgan Davison
photographed by Douglas Rimington/Detune Photography

HIGHLY NOTICEABLE, the strong and bold contrast in David Korma’s work between dark and light affects the whole collection. Futuristic architectural shapes and lines are the perfect fit for a confident woman today. Sculptural ruffles with lustrous embellishments create a cubist-armoured warrior in this modern age.
Holly Fulton has everything you could want for summer: rich materials and graphic pop art-inspired prints. Short skirts and maxi-dresses with the accessories to match the wardrobe for the holiday vacation. Innovative and unique, Holly’s prints are uptown Manhattan swank, made for the individual woman who knows what she likes.
Colour, embellishments, tribal and dangerous, Mark Fast’s collection is intricate and sexy. His women look like modern-day Amazons out of the urban jungle, with clothing bordering on bondage. The models’ dark eyes are potent, like the collection, taking you in their thrall. Mark’s knitwear is an intimate part of his collection with the wearer shaping the knit to their body.
Nicole Farhi plays with light on the catwalk, bouncing it off garments and absorbing it into other garments. There is a softer edge to the masculine shapes of her designs but the femininity is reinstated with the contrast of chiffon and prints. Fabric is wrapped and tied around the body with prints almost scribbled on to fabric, lying somewhere between art and drawing, like calligraphy, to create a cohesive collection.
The Meadham Kirchhoff label is part of a partnership between Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff. The garments induce a narrative on the runway for onlookers. From afar the runway appears to be a dream of lilac and pink feathers, yet the prints are disturbing, almost making us want to stand away from them. The models’ eyes are unbending and aware of voyeurs watching them. This is contrasted by the “girliness” of the rainbow hair, pastel bow, ruffled pinafores and Peter Pan collars. •

Holly Fulton

David Koma

Mark Fast

Meadham Kirchhoff

Nicole Farhi

Douglas Rimington is Lucire’s London-based photographer,
covering all of London Fashion Week.

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