HIGHLY NOTICEABLE, the
strong and bold contrast in David Kormas work between dark
and light affects the whole collection. Futuristic architectural
shapes and lines are the perfect fit for a confident woman today.
Sculptural ruffles with lustrous embellishments create a cubist-armoured
warrior in this modern age.
Holly Fulton has everything you could want for summer:
rich materials and graphic pop art-inspired prints. Short skirts
and maxi-dresses with the accessories to match the wardrobe for
the holiday vacation. Innovative and unique, Hollys prints
are uptown Manhattan swank, made for the individual woman who knows
what she likes.
Colour, embellishments, tribal and dangerous, Mark Fasts
collection is intricate and sexy. His women look like modern-day
Amazons out of the urban jungle, with clothing bordering on bondage.
The models dark eyes are potent, like the collection, taking
you in their thrall. Marks knitwear is an intimate part of
his collection with the wearer shaping the knit to their body.
Nicole Farhi plays with light on the catwalk, bouncing
it off garments and absorbing it into other garments. There is a
softer edge to the masculine shapes of her designs but the femininity
is reinstated with the contrast of chiffon and prints. Fabric is
wrapped and tied around the body with prints almost scribbled on
to fabric, lying somewhere between art and drawing, like calligraphy,
to create a cohesive collection.
The Meadham Kirchhoff label is part of a partnership
between Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff. The garments induce
a narrative on the runway for onlookers. From afar the runway appears
to be a dream of lilac and pink feathers, yet the prints are disturbing,
almost making us want to stand away from them. The models
eyes are unbending and aware of voyeurs watching them. This is contrasted
by the girliness of the rainbow hair, pastel bow, ruffled
pinafores and Peter Pan collars.
Holly Fulton

David Koma

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Mark Fast
 
Meadham Kirchhoff

Nicole Farhi

Douglas Rimington
is Lucires London-based photographer,
covering all of London Fashion Week.
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