An eclectic mix of shapes, textures and colours, is the look for
the latest Maicco autumn–winter 2011 collection. There is an element
of innocence and childhood nostalgia, as if the models have played
From the voluminous collars to bandage-style cuffs,
made from fine knits in warm earthy tones, this collection would
make any wearer feel nurtured.
A series of cut-out geometric shapes is a main feature
of each outfit. These fragments of bursting colours and textures
are almost like windows into the wearer’s inner passions, which
are trapped within the sober hues of everyday life.
Lena Hoschek has stayed true to her trade-mark 1950s German movie
star look. Tortoise-shell frames, complemented by side-swept fringes
and tight curls, add a seductive and sophisticated feel to the feminine
floral and plaid textiles. Berry reds, rich chocolate browns and
deep blues come together to create beautifully tailored garments
from silks, wool suiting, corduroy and thick cottons. Piped finishing
and ruffled edges add the final touches to the glamorous yet practical
garments, such as the high-wasted pencil-line skirts to the fully
buttoned-up Peter Pan-collared shirts.
Nineteen-seventies silhouettes, a varied range of block colours,
and a subtle use of accessories, sums up Dimitri’s collection. Leather
fringe appears as a design feature on dresses and belts, and large
crescent-shaped leather clutches also make an appearance. A mix
of masculine tailored pieces such as high-wasted leather shorts
are successfully contrasted against floor-length dresses and draped
furs, wool and silk-chiffon. Luxurious fabrics are toned down by
hues of burnt orange, grey, ivory and rich browns, but the final
ruby-red, leather fringed coat adds a punch of edgy glamour.
A. F. Vandervorst
The Belgian designer duo, A. F. Vandervorst sent the autumn–winter
2011 collection ‘A. Friend’ down the runway in a shroud of mystery,
with the models’ faces masked, wearing gloves and full-length skirts,
trousers or tights, only showing a minimal amount of bare skin.
The collection is a play on asymmetry with the use of block-coloured
pieces in fall tones of brown, red and black. Ruched rayon dresses,
unisex cardigans and sweaters constructed from wool and jersey,
and minimal accessories comprising of belts and gloves are all intertwined
to create an edgy and individual look that is still wearable.
Seductive fabrics paired with the illusion of iced crystals served
as the inspiration behind Stephan Pelgers autumn–winter 2011
collection. A modern take on the 1960s’ ‘beehive’ hairstyle, slick
black eyeliner and black, patent-leather pumps give the collection
an overall polished look. The collection is well structured and
confident but is softened by a feminine floral print, which gives
the appearance of a bed of flowers that has been glazed with ice.
Cinched-in waists also add a more feminine touch and the use of
sumptuous fabrics such as cashmere, sheer silk and silver fox fur
add sex appeal as well as timeless elegance.
Irene Luft’s collection channels a very confident, dominating and
yet demure woman. The collection’s motto is ‘reduction and precision’.
Focusing on stripping back superfluous colours and patterns, and
focusing on feminine cuts and proportions. Short boxy fur jackets,
sheer tops, lace trimmed shorts, high-wasted pencil-line skirts,
sash belts and over-knee stockings all feature in the collection.
The mood of simple elegance is set with the use of black throughout,
and lace, leather and fur accents vamp up the sex appeal.
A. F. Vandervorst
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Konrad Parols springsummer 2011 collection was another
fresh and funky range, diving into H. G. Wellss The
Time Machine for inspiration, reports Joanna Mroczkowska
photographed by Łukasz Dziewic
||X-bones to butterﬂies|
New Zealand jewellery designer and creator Steph Lusted tells
us about life post-Pforzheim by Jo Haas
from issue 26 of Lucire