A resurgent Berlin

Rena Lange

Quality and consistency through design was clearly displayed at the Rena Lange autumn–winter 2011 show. A small selection of geometric prints teamed with block colours, work well to enhance different parts of the silhouette and to create an optic of asymmetry within symmetry. The collection is ready to wear, but has not compromised on the technical skill required to construct each garment. Each piece has been carefully put together and the use of quality fabrics such as thick wool knits, leather and silk is instantly evident.

Marcel Ostertag

There was no shortage of colour in the Marcel Ostertag show. From mustard yellows to emerald green, it’s the different shades of violet that is a fresh change from the predictable hues found in winter wardrobes. Marcel’s look can hardly be described as restrained. Masculine and feminine characteristics have been mixed to create beautiful, fluid garments that are a little rough around the edges. Again, the use of leather and transparent silks is frequent in almost every outfit. There are also some gorgeous accessories in this collection, including pastel leather clutches and handbags.

Laurèl

At the Laurèl autumn–winter 2011 show, pale blue and shades of cognac dominated. Rope features as a detail on several garments, and a lot of wool, knitwear and leather were used. The collection also features jumpsuits paired with sleeveless fur jackets and a pale blue, wool suit jacket paired with mid-thigh matching shorts. A black leather mini embedded with large Swarovski crystals is one of the highlights. There is also a 1970s element coming from the slightly flared trousers and capes. The accessories include long suede gloves and knee-high boots. This collection can easily be described as luxury at ease, and exudes feminine coolness but doesn’t compromise on comfort.

Blacky Dress

For Frank Henke’s autumn–winter 2011 collection for Blacky Dress, urban chic is what it’s all about. Metallic grey, muted leather colours and warm caramel hues define this collection. Simple silhouettes, perfectly fitted almost have a sculptural quality. Rich fabrics such as leather, tweed, fur and jersey come together to create a harmony of beautiful textures. The collection emphasizes the idea that less is more and in this case it works with an effortlessly chic feel.

Perret Schaad

The two young designers Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad presented their autumn–winter 2011 collection on the second day of Berlin Fashion Week, amid much anticipation. Splashes of bold colour such as bright red and turquoise hype up the collection, and it is the use of technical and artificial surfaces which really sets this collection apart from the rest. Another unique feature from this collection is the tops with inserted elastic in the waistbands. Fine wool and silks are used to play with volume and shape along with an emphasis on minimalist design and expert cuts.

Kilian Kerner

Lay Beside Me is the title for Kilian Kerner’s autumn–winter 2011 collection, and it is his sixth consecutive time showing at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Like all his other collections, this one too has been developed through a series of emotions, from fast-lived moments to worldly experiences. The restrained colour palette of raspberry and black, with grey accents, allows the precise tailoring of each garment to be given full attention. Sequins and bows act as decorative elements, and leather, suede, wool and chiffon was used. For the men, drainpipe trousers, military jackets complete with epaulettes and a double-breasted raspberry suit were featured.

Modernized versions of pencil skirts and the little black dress were shown for women’s wear. Like all his other shows, live music was provided by Tunes of Dawn. •

Vicki Matias is assistant to the publisher at Lucire.