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Lucire: Fashion
the circuit


Tomaotomo Elegance with flattering silhouettes for spring

Glammed up for a spring party

continued


Jungeun Lee

Theatrical, overly dramatic and unconventional. These are the adjectives that personify Jungeun Lee’s show but we suspect that it was completely intentional. The collection begun with a barely clad model handcuffed to a stool in the centre of the catwalk with an equally barely clad model carelessly flailing her arms and zig-zagging her way towards the camera. Everyone afterwards followed suit in this unusual performance complete with entirely garish and unnecessary gestures. Beyond the detracting theatrics of the show, the clothes themselves fitted the scene perfectly. A punk-inspired and boudoir-influenced collection of skimpy clothing adorned in sequins, metals and punk rock references is basically the crux of this collection. High hemlines and non-hemlines alike were intermingled with black leather, white spray paint and shiny embellishments.

 

Rimi Nayak

Rimi Nayak ended the fourth day with a beautiful selection of soft silhouettes in a pastel palette of pink, lilac and turquoise. A notable piece that grew from the backbone of the traditional button-down top was rehashed into a splendid shirt–skirt hybrid. Raw silks were paired with processed varieties that created a beautiful fluid motion with each model’s movement. Plastic fasteners became sculptural details with her attachment of a myriad of buttons, offering additional these accents to the collars of shirts and, in some cases, the entire body of skirts.

 

 

Day 5

 

Tiny Dinosaur

Naomi Yamamoto previously trained beneath global designer Issey Miyake and, this, alongside her Japanese heritage, is the cornerstone of her latest collection. The clean design sensibilities that often accompany Japanese design come through in her unfussy silhouettes and minimal yet clean finishes. A notable piece of her collection included a geometric diamond print that has been carefully applied on top of midi-length jersey dresses.

 


Paula Kunstmann

Geometric and floral prints were heavy features in the Paula Kunstmann show. Smocked silk white trousers with the same aforementioned prints were paired with a peach bralette, and styled with a seemingly eastern-inspired print scarf. Cotton cropped Ts were a recurring feature and blacks, blues and greens were combined together, questioning the designers’ tastes.

 

Seth Aaron

Seth Aaron offered a collaborative collection with Earthtec, a sustainable apparel company showcasing a variety of styles purely made by recycled and organic byproducts. Proportions were well considered with a largely streamlined silhouette that was counter-balanced with quite dramatically shaped outerwear. Contrast was high on the agenda for this designer with panels of contrasting colours being exposed. Reds were paired with greys and tonal purples were meshed together in dramatic linear arrangements.

 

Malab

Malab has showed a very sophisticated collection that has slight references of his native México. Fringework, appliqué, delicate hand-work and carefully applied fabric treatments warranted each piece another more focused look. Screen prints were painstakingly applied with detailed graphics, and geometric seam details were a major feature throughout his collection.

 

Bohoboco

Bohoboco excited the crowd with its spring–summer offerings. Solely neutral palettes of cream, radiating beiges and obtuse blacks were made into fluid and structural elements. Silhouettes were largely left to drape with beautiful coats and skirts accompanying them.

 

Tomaotomo

Tomaotomo’s inspiration derived from the elegance of women and has clearly translated into this collection. Minimalist details were paired with neutral colours, which combined graceful chiffons with sculptural leather and suede. Intrusions of bright oranges were very much welcomed and created a strong contrast between the various hues. Proportions were well considered and silhouettes very flattering.

 

Clara Glez

Clara Glez introduced her collection with floor-grazing dresses that housed a subtle floral motif print. What followed was a slew of similarly feminine dresses made from beautiful chiffons in various lengths. Peach and beige safari-styled shirts and tailored short suits followed.

 

Callisti

The showcasing at Callisti was very sophisticated and feminine with quite a touch of an antiquated style permeating throughout. Clothes were skin-tight and paired with contrasting tones of coloured panels. Every piece exuded a sense of sensuality, with delicate pleat details artfully administered to some of the pieces. Some drape in the form of layered chiffon was seen and jacket backs were left open often with decorative string arrangements. Zipper and chain detailing was left visible.

 

Moon Berlin

Moon Berlin closed the shows at VFW with a collection that integrated light technology with contemporary fashion ideas providing some insights into what the future may hold. A move away from the conceptual shows that are usually shown when technology like this is integrated, they pared down any preconceived notions with a very simplistic and minimalist collection. Beautiful silks and cottons were cut on the bias, providing a sophisticated drape with flitters of small light bulbs interwoven between and within layers that emoted a majestic, almost other-worldly feeling to this collection. •


Rimi Nayak; Tiny Dinosaur


Paula Kunstmann; Seth Aaron


Malab; Bohoboco


Clara Glez; Callisti

Callisti




Moon Berlin

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