Miss America 2011 Teresa Scanlan opened the show with the first
VFW offering, Joseph Ribkoff. The
mood was set with a slew of playfully bright asymmetric cut tops
offset by structured and mature white trouser-pants. Utilitarian
features like the zip were left intentionally exposed on top of
tailored jackets and coats. The wrap-around dress, introduced by
Diane Von Furstenberg during the early ’70s, was readapted
into a series of wrap-around tops with dark prints reminiscent of
those found during the grunge heydays. Delicate flute-work around
sleeve openings in flamboyant colours reinforced the playful nature
of the collection.
Kings & Paupers
Kings and Paupers has aligned itself within the premium denim business
and takes pride in maintaining traditional Japanese methods to develop
modern, high-quality denim wear. During this showcase, they have
included jeans in various shades of indigo with detailed pocket
stitching in a contrasting mahogany orange thread. Cuts are low
A kaleidoscope of colours and prints were present within the collection
of Mermaid Moon’s latest offerings, making the direction of
the collection difficult to pinpoint. Aqua, orange, teal, brown,
green, grey, pink and mustard were a few tones of the chromal spectrum
present. Silhouettes were simple and odd, including hoods attached
to dresses and a skirt-pant hybrid reminiscent of ancient Chinese
Musa Shah commenced the men’s portion of the evening with
an exotic fusion of east and west Asian origins. Traditional Indian
men’s shirts were reworked with a modern take that was both
loose and structured. Heavy linens and raw silks were made into
side to front closed trousers, with tonal contrast playing heavily
with the deep colours present. Luxurious wools and gentle ruching
were stand-out forms.
Papillon focuses strongly on producing well constructed and modern
dresses appropriate for social occasions and this VFW
line-up was not a disappointment. Prints were the object du jour
with an assortment of both muted greys and colourful exuberant patterns.
The range included lengths that were both floor-length and shorter.
Valerio Moda impressed the crowd with his excellent attention to
craftsmanship and detail that went into each of his men’s
leather jackets. Classic, sleek and tailored styles were combined
with sportswear. Bow ties, colourful candy coloured shirts, bold
silk scarves, fedora hats and suede loafers accessorized the collection.
A confusing assortment of materials was paraded within Brittney
Wacher’s collection (right) but, despite this discordance,
the pieces worked in an oddly produced symphonic harmony. Delicate
laces, linens, mesh and PVC were materials
of note that reinvigorated the crowd for Day 2’s collections,
prompted by her atypical designs. Coats and lingerie constructed
of clear PVC alongside the opaque
nature of lace and high slashed hemlines highlighted and sensualized
certain aspects of the female form.
Byron Abad presented a slew of simple silhouettes with detailed
accents, clearly demonstrating the skill set of this students-only
term at LaSalle College International. Red, white and gold stripes
were intertwined into a mesh and plastered across various parts
of the body, with silk cottons draped haphazardly on to the forms.
Henry Parade’s collection was a merger of fast fashion and
loungewear, with pieces easily translating to the landscapes of
the gym or the seaside. The mood was captured in each model’s
yoga-esque pose towards the runway’s end. There were natural
motifs present with earth tones and gentle drape-work, accented
alongside laser cut-outs, hard edges, fringing and studded decals.
The colour scheme of Desjardins’ work consisted of dark hues
combined with off-whites, complemented by a generous offering of
exuberant colours. The silhouettes were simple and reminiscent of
English designers’ sensibilities with a concentration of resolve
in the areas of quality finishes and luxurious fabric choices. Waists
were styled high and produced in an assortment of bright chequered
cottons and wools. Light drape-work, a full corseted dress and tailored
jackets round up the remainder of her mix.
Kam & Lee
A collection of helium balloons suspending sheer cotton served as
an additional set-piece to the male and female showcasing of Kam
& Lee, reinforcing wonderfully the urban and experimental æsthetic
of their collection. Shredded white denim shorts were paired with
panelled lace on top of chainmail trouser decals. Bulbous silhouettes
formed with heavy linen were layered and emphasized the hips, neck
and chest areas. Capelets for both men and women were included with
chain fastenings. The colour palette was of muted grey and its derivatives
with tasteful accents of hot pink throughout making this collection
one of the most resolved collections of the evening.
This collection by Laurie Jacouty was very sophisticated, with tones
of muted beige upholding the foundation of this collection’s
colour palette. Navy blue was sporadically inserted into this mix,
leaving a distinction of contrast that was not left unnoticed. Patterned
panelling, clearly sought out for its clear mimickry to lace-work,
was applied alongside lace itself, with beautifully silk draped
vests alongside equally wonderfully hung trousers. Panelled asymmetric
cropped jackets constructed with silk chiffon sleeves were a highlight.
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Kings & Paupers; Mermaid Moon
Musa Shah; Papillon
Valerio Moda; Byron Abad
Parade; Janine Desjardins
Kam & Lee
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Eeli Y is a writer for Lucire. Vicki Matias is a senior
writer for Lucire.