Milano: sophistication through subtlety

Jazz, Spain and the American west all played their part in inspiring Milano designers for spring–summer 2012, write Katherine Thomson and Ella Garland-Levett
PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS SALME

MODA DI MILANO, Milan Fashion Week, brought a wide range of stunning collections for spring–summer 2012. Although not as bold and colourful as previous fashion weeks, we saw more Italian sophistication and elegance. Colour came out in softer tones, used for accenting rather than to stop the show. The patterns, too, were toned down and subtly beautiful.

Italian designer Manuel Facchini from Byblos (right) created a beautiful collection in muted tones of bronze, gold and creams. The collection had the perfect balance of tailoring and simple, smooth silhouettes. Facchini’s designs are creative and innovative, strongly reflecting the essence of the brand and following the meaning of time in a contemporary way.

Gimmo Etro, creator of Etro, showcased a very elegant and simple collection. The prints and cuts made for unique garments. Following a consistent jazz theme, Etro’s collection involved thoughtful placement of print and slightly hidden layers of hair-like fringing and pleats. The soft pastel silks and satins created a fluid, feminine quality. The overall look was well finished by intricate embroidery and the occasional appearance of bold metal earrings and bangles.

Roberto Cavalli’s Just Cavalli (below left and in right column) represents a young, western, romantic rock spirit. The combination of western-style fringing, animal prints, fur, suede, leather, metallic denim, delicate georgette, crêpe de Chine and silk all work harmoniously together. Python, butterfly and floral prints came in pastels, grey, beige, aquamarine, yellow, gold and black. There is a combination of short shorts and skirts alongside light, long maxi dresses. The trousers are very skinny, with structured micro-jackets and snug trench coats.

Like Cavalli, fringing is also popular in Moschino’s collection this season. Inspired by Spanish culture and mythology, we see torero mini-jackets and hats, capes, peasant dresses, flamenco dancer ruffled dresses, fringed jackets, cowboy hats and high-waisted, slim tight black trousers. Bold, gold embroideries tied the collection together and linked well with the gold sandals. I particularly loved the floral Spanish-inspired tall headpieces.

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Moschino

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Byblos


Etro


Just Cavalli

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