Sydney’s dignified fashion week

Carl Kapp

I have often admired Carl Kapp’s displays on his window at his Oxford Street store. I believe he is the master of drape and his fabric weight and feel choice is always spot on. He proved that once more during his spring–summer 2012–13 show.

His inspiration for this collection was unabashedly the colours of the ’80s, as well as some of the shapes, vastly improved. All the models were styled to look like Amélie Poulain—she, of Le fabuleux destin—though I heard the collection was a tribute of sorts to Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington. Carl’s South African roots can be sensed through his choice of riotous bold colours—fuchsia, orange, green, and gold—but so beautifully combined! Long dresses with extremely long trains doubled up and held at the neck—such as they billowed as the model walked—were probably my favourite items, but there were beautiful, superbly tailored jackets over sexy but comfortable lounge trousers, masterful pleating, and interesting sleeve and cowl treatments.

All in all, a beautiful, feminine collection that any elegant woman, no matter what age, could wear, and which could take you from elegant lunch to dinner.

Akira

Akira presented an installation at the Box, with one predominantly bridal section to the collection. Petals cut out of his delicate fabrics were strewn all over the floor. His unique use of texture could be appreciated in many of the items, especially as we know that he creates some in house. There were various clusters of colour, but what stood out were various modern re-interpretations of traditional Japanese kimonos and headpieces. The use of Imari-inspired prints, amongst other Japanese floral inspirations, with some 1960s inspiration, were also noticeable. The collection was extremely colourful, beautifully combined and very feminine.

Akira

Bowie

I am in awe of the pattern mastery of Bowie Wong. He presented what looked to be a primarily bridal and ball collection, with the predominant colours being white, black and gold. The cuts and shapes were worthy of Marie Antoinette’s court, with some fantastically ruffled and stiffened volute ruffles on gowns. There was heavy texturing on some gowns, as well as capes and stoles made of feather butterflies or ball beads.

The inspiration was apparently a forest and all its creatures of legend, with textures and hues and spider-webby magnificence. Expertly done, but having been to Sydney’s most prestigious ball recently, I did not see anyone who dared wear something quite so elaborate and flamboyant, which makes me think this collection is firmly aimed at bridal and red carpet. •

Viviana Pannell is the founder and designer for Basquesse, a Sydney, NSW-based label, and a correspondent for Lucire.

Carl Kapp

Akira

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