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Lucire: Fashion

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Chanel The all-diamond ring and necklace from the famed French house

Un carnet de mode

Paris editor Lola Saab has had an eventful June, examining jewellery, menswear and the autumn–winter 2013–14 haute couture collections

The haute couture, jewellery and menswear extravaganzas took to the Parisian runway in June. As usual, designers didn’t cease to amaze us with their chic and enticing designs that makes onlookers yearn for more year after year.

Whether it’s jewellery or clothing collections, Paris undoubtedly knows how to put on an unforgettable show! The new season’s collection comes to life as we make our way through numerous collections including Van Cleef & Arpels, Chanel’s haute joaillerie, Francesco Smalto, Atelier Gustavolins, On Aura Tout Vu and Oscar Carvallo.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Matinée d’Orient

Oriental Princess

Lotus d’Orient

Van Cleef & Arpels débuted stylish pieces for their high jewellery collection that sparkled with taste and innovation. A picture of the Arpels brothers, Claude and Pierre, on a voyage in India in 1950, is the first image that visitors are introduced to. It represents more than just a trip; it also symbolizes their desire to travel and attain new ideas that future wearers would admire.

Years later, oriental and extravagant looks continue to magnificently dominate the Maison and allow onlookers to participate in an imaginative escapade away from reality. The collection, Pierres de caractère, pays homage to the expeditions that were taken and the everlasting designs. The Maison is capable in creating spectacularly large pieces or designing ever-so discreet creations.

The Oriental Princess necklace is an outstandingly mesmerizing piece, captivating the attention of all spectators. The clear, 8·07 ct pear-shaped diamond is encircled by 42 flawless rubies and round as well as pear-shaped diamonds. The piece is made for a princess and calls out to the hearts of all women.

The Capri ring embraces a marvelous 3·24 ct yellow diamond with numerous baguette and round-cut diamonds. The spiral feature exemplifies the beauty of the large yellow diamond as its exposes a satisfyingly three-dimensional effect.

The Lotus d’Orient ring pays tribute to the splendidly sacred flower. A 24·44 ct blue-green tourmaline is the centre of attention as it is clinched by the magnificence of other gemstones including chrysophrase, one of the rarest stones.

The Summer Cocktail ring adds vivacious colours and supreme quality to the look with a 21.19 carat oval pink spinel as the centrepiece. The piece revives the 1960s look as it accentuates the lavishly large end-product for women to proudly show off.

The overall presentation expressed a lavish collection with bold pieces. The Maison has the tendency to continue to surprise visitors and excite elegant wearers. The collection wears its name well as it represents the quality that distinguishes the brand. As each piece is outstandingly brought to life, we bear in mind the words of Claude Arpels, ‘Every stone has a soul of its own.’

Chanel’s high jewellery collection, entitled Sous le Signe de Lion, places strong emphasis on the beauty and strength of lions. Born a Leo on August 19, 1883, Gabrielle Chanel constantly enveloped herself by the figure of a lion, transforming into a prominent symbol in her life. The image of lions is present in almost each of the 58 extraordinary pieces on show.

Stepping into the secretive room, located on the top floor of the Chanel boutique at la Place Vendôme, invitees are welcomed into a completely dark and eerie atmosphere. The illuminating diamonds shine as the main radiating light. The pieces possess utmost detail and perseverance to feature specifically the lion entailed within each piece.

One of the many pieces that leap with life is the Lion Solaire, which includes diamonds, yellow sapphires, citrines, topaz and garnets. The yellow sapphire contributes to the ‘solaire’ effect enabling a sun-shining feature with the lion’s head.

The Lion Céleste (above) is another breathtaking piece that strikes a balance between innovation with a spark of novelty. The lion poses with its paw on the world: it is a fabulous vision of strength, allowing the wearers to tame such a creature with all its potency.

Above left The Lion Solaire. Above right Chanel’s limited-edition Lion San Marco.

The Lion San Marco is a limited edition, representing a total of only five pieces. The fabulous piece is a sculpted lapis-lazuli lion, with yellow and white diamonds. Chanel moved to Venezia in the early 1920s, and the city has come to represent the designer’s great source of inspiration. The Lion San Marco gives praise to the lion at St Mark’s Basilica. It represents a sense of vigour as the strong blue slightly tones down the strong effect of the diamond.

The current designers sustain the effect the Chanel once maintained throughout her career. Women can show off more than just precious stones embedded within the 18 ct white gold; they reveal the exuberant power in each shape.

Francesco Smalto

In menswear, Francesco Smalto’s collection presented men in elegant and effervescent looks. The Maison was founded by the Italian couturier in 1962 and continues to portray a premium brand known to dress men with stylish appeal.

The brand’s artistic director, Youn-Chong Bak, aims to make a man look at his best. The presentation took place during menswear fashion week in Paris at the Artcurial at the roundabout located on the infamous Champs-Élysées.

The presentation’s arrangement was categorized into five separate scenarios, including the airport, the beach, and a cocktail party. Colours were limitless, with accessories to accentuate the ensembles. The Smalto man is well dressed with a pleasingly refined look.

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Lola Saab is Paris editor of Lucire.