Lucire: Fashion


Ryan Zhou

Nicholas K

Strong Vivienne Hu and Nicholas K forecast a stronger, more confident autumn–winter 2015–16

Autumn in the city

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Vivienne Hu

Fuzhong Yang


Look: The investment banker-turned-fashion designer evoked a highly independent woman with her edgy bold and clean-cut pieces. Asymmetry and geometry added to the confident style, which would not have looked out of place in the financial district. Her palette was based around olive tones, highlighted by red and blue, while materials included suede, lamb fur, tulle and, the fabric of the season, leather. Hu’s woman is strong and knows what she wants, and she should have no trouble appealing to them with her autumn–winter 2015–16 collection. The wet-look hair was styled by Tresemmé.

Son Jung Wan

Look: Sophisticated, vibrant and vivacious. The designer’s inspiration derives from romantic MGM films of the 1950s and Gordon Parks’s fashion photography. Both insights came together magnificently, with elaborate detail and flamboyant shades. Fur and merino wool stood out, fur appeared on collars or sleeves, while metallic, bright and slightly more discreet colours provided a wide range of options.

Rodin Banica

Nicholas K

Look: The sister–brother team, Nicholas and Christopher Kunz, put on a show transporting spectators to a Gothic cinema world. The show, entitled The Cabinet of Dr Caligari, featured intense layering, dark hues and natural fabrics. One-sided ponytails with a single sleek light highlight, dark round-shaped shades, a slew of accessories and headdresses projected an edgy elegance. Sensuality was evoked with deep necklines, backless creations and full, leg-revealing skirts. This was a collection that stayed feminine and flawless while being gallant and self-assured.

Nicholas K

Above Backstage at Nicholas K.

Nicole Miller

Look: Nicole Miller’s autumn–winter 2015–16 collection is based on a forest’s enticing beauty. The much anticipated show featured delicate touches, mystifying aspects and alluring scenery, to portray the Miller wearer. Long dresses emphasized the waistline; simple knee-high dresses highlighted the wearer’s curves. Delicate embroidered prints, featuring fireflies, tigers and serpents, took us beyond nature, into a fantasy world. Forest green dominated as a colour—on that note, only Miller could take a camouflage pattern and put it successfully on a long jacket. We also think she’s right on-trend with her black, flared leather trousers. It’s another home run for this all-American designer.

Courtesy Nicole Miller

Erin Fetherston

Look: Season after season, the young San Franciscan designer elaborates upon her romantic and intricately charming themes. Her autumn–winter 2015–16 collection is inspired by woodland fairies. Dubbed Into the Wild, the collection features a decidedly floral theme, appearing in prints, embroideries and lace. Black and white form the core, along with moss green, set off by splashes of imperial gold and burgundy. While accessories were minimal, a number of rings complemented the ensembles.

Thomas Wylde

Look: Paula Thomas was inspired by two of the most vital resources on our planet today: oil and water. And sex. With all three, Wylde put together a collection expressing three separate things that drive our survival: oil patterns appeared in black and white, and gold and white; water appeared as a black motif; and sex, although we didn’t notice it at the time, was represented in the outline of a naked woman in the water print. Using flawless tuck and folds, a number of pieces were reminiscent of Valentino’s splendour and Giorgio Armani’s grandeur. Cashmere, leather, virgin wool, silk cotton and chiffon highlighted a beautiful collection, underlining the brisk wind along with the coolness of the water. While the pieces represented complexity, the make-up and hair, by Eric Gabriel for Oribe, contributed a contrasting simplicity. •





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