VOLANTE In a two-part series on fine food on the US east coast, Lola Cristall begins by sampling three of New York’s finest and most elegant establishments
New York should be considered the an epicentre of culinary extravagance. Its touches of elegance, style and lavish surroundings live on at the revived and renewed backdrop of Dowling’s at the Carlyle, a Rosewood Hotel (www.rosewoodhotels.com).
Executive chef Sylvain Delpique incorporates delicate touches of profound flavours and bold presentations. The quaint, classy room is surrounded by meticulously chosen artwork, transforming the space into a mesmerizing gallery. The hospitable staff ensure utter comfort and provide every guest with utmost attention.
Start your brunch experience with an Upper East Side bagel that has an exclusive house-made smoked salmon delicately accompanied by whipped cream cheese, dill, capers and pickled onions, or simply opt for a delicious lobster bisque topped with sourdough croutons. The Cobb is especially prepared according to one’s personal desire with a mélange of fresh ingredients, including roasted chicken, avocado, hard-boiled egg, tomatoes, bacon, kalamata olives, all coming together with a rich blue cheese dressing.
Main courses include crispy tofu and zucchini on a bed of spiced chickpea and lentils with a hint of mint, offering one of a few flavoursome vegan options. For seafood lovers, the lobster club is a tantalizing option as the lobster, avocado, lettuce, smoked bacon and tomato are covered by the rich taste of a lovely citrus and herb aioli, enjoyed in a fresh ciabatta bread.
One of the Carlyle’s signature plates is their burger that is named after the iconic hotspot. The Carlyle Burger is based on intense flavours giving a mouthwatering experience and fulfilling bite.
From the iconic 21 Club in Manhattan to the much celebrated Carlyle, Chef Sylvain joined the team in 2021. His creative touch and culinary talents gave him the role at the very acclaimed two-Michelin-star restaurants Pierre Orsi in Lyon and Michel Chabran in Pont de l’Isère in Valence, France. His in-depth skills landed him at Jean Luis in Greenwich, Conn. before making his way to Manhattan at the renowned French bistro, Artisanal. Soon afterwards, he became executive chef at two distinct David Burke restaurants in New York. Chef Sylvain’s keen attention to detail and appreciation for good food is reflected in each mouthful.
While reminiscing on some of New York City’s emblematic destinations, the Pierre, a Taj Hotel (www.pierrenyc.com), certainly comes to mind. The conveniently located Central Park hotel has an elegantly spacious and lavish dining spot, Perrine (www.perrinenyc.com), for delicious meals to be enjoyed within sophisticated, distinguished walls.
Chef Ashfer Biju’s talented touch shines. The farm-to-table concept is evoked with each dish as fresh ingredients are revived with delectably tantalizing seasonings. Chef Ashfer embraces the change of seasons as he enthusiastically describes his use of a slew of vegetables for the upcoming spring season. His appreciation for worldly cuisine is evoked in his creations as an international touch with a fusion spin.
A delicate mushroom bisque with chanterelle mushrooms is a perfect way to start the culinary experience, followed by a blood orange and beet salad, beautifully accompanied by shredded fennel for a licorice-like taste with a citrus twist. Shrimp in a delectable curry sauce with a side of aromatic white rice is a true delight, as hints of spice and fragrant rice emerge. A roasted branzino is a tantalizing trip for the senses as the delicious seasonings provide intense tastes, sure to serve a truly appetizing trip.
The Perrine offers diners American cuisine with a French, Italian and Indian touch for extensive flavours that allows one to relish every bite.
Chef Ashfer works closely with Chef Michal Mignano, executive banquet chef, who has an eye for pastry and dessert creativity. The Perrine desserts offer a true palate cleanser, including the famous New York cheesecake where the sweet touch is delicate and delightful. The extensive bar menu offers guests a slew of cocktails to enjoy, wines to appreciate and beverages to either accompany each course or to simply quench one’s thirst.
New York has always been known to provide substantially lavish dining options, including Parisian-like destinations that have merged with New York City appeal. When one thinks of Ladurée, the Champs-Élysées in Paris immediately comes to mind, though it has also become a New York staple over the years. The Ladurée Soho (www.laduree.us) location serves as an upscale bakery, café, afternoon teatime getaway and restaurant for brunch and lunch options. An outdoor secret garden is sure to lure a crowd. When spring is in full bloom, the blossoming trees is a glimpse extracted from a storybook. The friendly staff provide a cozy feel amongst the Parisian setting.
The special Ladurée three-tiered teatime treat offers a selection of delectably delicious macarons, mouthwatering marshmallows, pastries of choice, finger sandwiches, as well as a note beverage of interest and kir royal cocktail with a floating red rose petal. Their pastries from Ispahan with fresh raspberries, rose petal cream and a hint of lychee is an experience like no other; the famous millefeuille is a delectable treat of indulgence as puff pastry and hints of cream merge for a delightfully crispy and sweet escapade.
The lunch options are extensive, whether opting for a simple seasonal quiche with a mix of cheeses including goat cheese, brie and gruyere, a smoked salmon with warm blinis and a touch of lemon cream, or a croque-monsieur; also recognized is a turkey ham and melted emmental cheese sandwich. Each option is sure to awaken one’s appetite while transporting them to France. Ladurée is also celebrated for their thirst-quenching beverages including their rose latte, which also appropriately accompanies their moist rose cake, bursting with immense floral flavours. •
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