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Lucire: Fashion
the circuit


Maicco Maicco brought childhood nostalgia into the autumn–winter 2011–12 season.

A resurgent Berlin

Vicki Matias gives her round-up of Berlin’s autumn–winter 2011–12 collections, with confidence the underlying theme
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAURICE LUCKETT/FASHION AVIATOR AND ANNA-PRISKA HÜBSCH

 

Maicco

An eclectic mix of shapes, textures and colours, is the look for the latest Maicco autumn–winter 2011 collection. There is an element of innocence and childhood nostalgia, as if the models have played dress-up.

From the voluminous collars to bandage-style cuffs, made from fine knits in warm earthy tones, this collection would make any wearer feel nurtured.

A series of cut-out geometric shapes is a main feature of each outfit. These fragments of bursting colours and textures are almost like windows into the wearer’s inner passions, which are trapped within the sober hues of everyday life.

 

Lena Hoschek

Lena Hoschek has stayed true to her trade-mark 1950s German movie star look. Tortoise-shell frames, complemented by side-swept fringes and tight curls, add a seductive and sophisticated feel to the feminine floral and plaid textiles. Berry reds, rich chocolate browns and deep blues come together to create beautifully tailored garments from silks, wool suiting, corduroy and thick cottons. Piped finishing and ruffled edges add the final touches to the glamorous yet practical garments, such as the high-wasted pencil-line skirts to the fully buttoned-up Peter Pan-collared shirts.

 

Dimitri

Nineteen-seventies silhouettes, a varied range of block colours, and a subtle use of accessories, sums up Dimitri’s collection. Leather fringe appears as a design feature on dresses and belts, and large crescent-shaped leather clutches also make an appearance. A mix of masculine tailored pieces such as high-wasted leather shorts are successfully contrasted against floor-length dresses and draped furs, wool and silk-chiffon. Luxurious fabrics are toned down by hues of burnt orange, grey, ivory and rich browns, but the final ruby-red, leather fringed coat adds a punch of edgy glamour.

 

A. F. Vandervorst

The Belgian designer duo, A. F. Vandervorst sent the autumn–winter 2011 collection ‘A. Friend’ down the runway in a shroud of mystery, with the models’ faces masked, wearing gloves and full-length skirts, trousers or tights, only showing a minimal amount of bare skin. The collection is a play on asymmetry with the use of block-coloured pieces in fall tones of brown, red and black. Ruched rayon dresses, unisex cardigans and sweaters constructed from wool and jersey, and minimal accessories comprising of belts and gloves are all intertwined to create an edgy and individual look that is still wearable.

 

Stephan Pelger

Seductive fabrics paired with the illusion of iced crystals served as the inspiration behind Stephan Pelger’s autumn–winter 2011 collection. A modern take on the 1960s’ ‘beehive’ hairstyle, slick black eyeliner and black, patent-leather pumps give the collection an overall polished look. The collection is well structured and confident but is softened by a feminine floral print, which gives the appearance of a bed of flowers that has been glazed with ice. Cinched-in waists also add a more feminine touch and the use of sumptuous fabrics such as cashmere, sheer silk and silver fox fur add sex appeal as well as timeless elegance.

 

Irene Luft

Irene Luft’s collection channels a very confident, dominating and yet demure woman. The collection’s motto is ‘reduction and precision’. Focusing on stripping back superfluous colours and patterns, and focusing on feminine cuts and proportions. Short boxy fur jackets, sheer tops, lace trimmed shorts, high-wasted pencil-line skirts, sash belts and over-knee stockings all feature in the collection. The mood of simple elegance is set with the use of black throughout, and lace, leather and fur accents vamp up the sex appeal.

continued

 


Lena Hoschek


Dimitri


A. F. Vandervorst


Stephan Pelger


Irene Luft

 

 

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Expanded from issue 26 of Lucire

 

 

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