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Lucire: Fashion
the circuit


Jusil Carroll The winner of the Supima competition sent down elegant, high-quality designs for spring 2012
Dan Lecca

New York’s flawless fashion, and beyond

Lola Saab and Jack Yan look at some of their on-trend favourites from New York’s spring 2012 catwalk as the items hit the stores
photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli, Dan Lecca, Frazer Harrison and Mike Coppola

 

Fashion exists in everyone’s life, whether one knows it or not. It’s in the air we breathe, the sites we see, the foods we taste, the sounds we hear, and, of course, the clothes we wear. Fashion is constantly changing, sometimes for the better or even for the worse, but either way fashion is a fabulous transformational phenomenon.

Perhaps the internationally acclaimed French fashion designer, Coco Chanel, once said it best: ‘Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.’

When New York Fashion Week revealed the spring–summer 2012 collections, people from all over the world were prepared to master the season’s new trends. Here are some of our picks.

 


Nicholas K
The first fashion show of the week was Nicholas K, which definitely conveyed an extremely funky, fierce and modern look.

Nicholas K is a New York-based design company founded by a brother-and-sister team, Nicholas and Christopher Kunz, in early 2003. The new season’s collection is fresh and fierce. The looks convey a chic yet modern approach to fashion. As the male and female models walked down the runway, a funky and fresh feel flowed in the atmosphere. The duster trench and trimmed dresses that draped down along the body were intensely seductive. The materials looked considerably soft and smooth as they flowed along.

 

Supima

On September 8, the fourth annual Supima Design Competition took place at Lincoln Center. This particular show was probably the most stressful to watch as the audience had no choice but to constantly ponder upon the potential winner throughout the show.

Supima, which is known for its fine cotton, was founded in 1954. The Competition débuted in 2008, promoting not only emerging designers but encouraging the use of fine, strong, high-quality material.

During New York Fashion Week, Supima partnered with four of America’s leading design schools, including the Fashion Institute of Technology, Pratt Institute, the Rhode Island School of Design and the Savannah College of Art and Design. Two top graduating seniors from each school were invited to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week to present their original designs and prove that they have what it takes to win the competition. Each student was assigned a competition mentor.

The panel of judges included Nicole Miller, Kevin Harter, Alexandra Wilkis Wilson, Charlotte Ronson, Buxton Midyette and Coco Rocha. They were designated to judge each collection on three levels, ‘originality, execution and ability to reinvent Supima.’ Students were meant to create unique designs using the same material.

The host, Rachel Zoe, a fashion designer, stylist and editor, opened the fashion show alongside the president of Supima, Jesse Curlee. Once the lights dimmed down, the music began and the first look made its way out on the runway. As soon as the show came to an end Zoe finally announced the winner.

The eight students had five looks each to present. With their fashionably stylish elements, they brought out innovative techniques and cutting-edge designs to the runway, but only one went home with the grand prize of $10,000.

Thirty-four-year-old South Korean native, Jusil Carroll from the Fashion Institute of Technology, was the lucky winner of the annual competition. Her classy collection gave an almost majestic feel. Her inspiration came from the film, The Blair Witch Project. ‘I love the idea that each person interprets the witch differently and all they are left with is a sense of mystery and thrill.’

Caroll’s collection was simple yet there was detail in every piece. In many ways, there was a marvellously deep sense of wonder in her work. The audience was left to interpret the remarkable looks in their own way in order to fill in the void of ‘mystery’ that caused such a ‘thrill.’

 

Vivienne Tam

Vivienne Tam’s spring–summer 2012 collection is derived from a zen garden’s natural aspects. There were wonderfully chaotic and simple prints that evoked fascinating, artistic images. Each piece was a divine sight, with flowing, fresh and beautiful design. As always, the audience was in for a spectacular treat as soon as the first look took centre-stage.

Intense colours and detailed designs reminded the audience of nature’s beauty found in the depths of a zen garden. Dresses portrayed a comfortable look, and highlighted their extremely feminine appeal. The long-sleeved, cape-like dresses were a lovely, enchanting way to close the show.

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Stephen Ciuccoli


Lola Saab is Paris editor of Lucire.
Stephen Ciuccoli is a photographer for
Lucire.

Nicholas K


Jusil Carroll


Dan Lecca

Publisher’s choice
Custo Barcelona



Stephen Ciuccoli

We’ve been attending Custo Dalmau’s shows for over 12 years, and each season, he never fails to surprise. Spring–summer 2012 saw Custo Barcelona experimenting with three-dimensional effects. You’ll also get 3-D specs along with your purchase. It’s the innovation we love, so forget the same-old, same-old. Custo’s still keen to push the envelope.—Jack Yan, Publisher

Stephen Ciuccoli

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