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Caroline Charles The photographers Doug Rimington photographs his colleagues on day five of London Fashion Week.

Roma to colonial India, via the wild west

Day five of London Fashion Week had no noticeable trend emerge, writes Morgan Davison. Instead, it ranged from androgyny to the US west, from ancient Rome to colonial India
photographed by Douglas Rimington/Detune Photography

JAEGER LONDON hit us with an impact on day five with twentieth-century modern art movements. The clothing seemed almost effortless for design director Stuart Stockdale, his bold graphic prints and laser cutting create an illusion of proportions with minimalist detail in his shirts, jackets, trouser and bags. Jaeger has renewed modernism and made it relevant to a postmodern Society.
Angles, straight lines and a sharp androgynous look are part of Todd Lynn’s collection. It is hard to tell whether you are looking at a man or a woman, as his clothes have no indication for either. Fearless with a heart full of science, the models wear high collars, double-breasted asymmetric openings and square panelling. They could have been walking down a laboratory corridor giving us a snapshot of the future.
Amanda Wakeley impressed with her whimsical gowns and stunning jewellery. Tones of ecru softly turned to blue and silver beading in a luxurious collection. Wakeley’s collection has alluring inspirations from Roman drape, statement necklaces from the provinces, and gladiatorial belts, and brought them to the modern woman.
Ashish has made summer fun-loving and sexy with a sense of parody. Western shirts and boots, native American headdresses, hot graphics with an abundance of sequins in every colour and prints—this collection is full to the brim with clothes anyone would have fun wearing.
Issa London gave us a taste of colonial India in her spring–summer 2011 collection. Fabric is draped gracefully across the body like a sari in bold vibrant colours which remind us of India’s culture. Alongside and underneath the saris are western-inspired dresses, almost invading into the collection with their more subdued silhouettes and tailoring.
Taking a different approach this season, Christian Blanken has used a grey-scale Twister board as his runway. Complementing his neat tailored modern collection, Christian’s colour palette is subdued as are his models, capturing the serious atypical modern woman. Clothes are fitted with zips and drawstrings to the body but are left with extra volume to move around in. His clothes play with the lighting set up around the room: burnished fabrics shine while others absorb the light. •

Ashish

Jaeger London

Christian Blanken

Issa London

Todd Lynn

Amanda Wakeley

Douglas Rimington is Lucire’s London-based photographer,
covering all of London Fashion Week.

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