The colour of a Madrid winter

Kina Fernandez


Juanjo Oliva

The third day started at 10.30 with the Ailanto show. The brothers present­ed a special mix of tex­tures, volumes and prints.

Kina Fernan­dez was a great sur­prise this season. Her pretty, femin­ine collec­tion showed how to dress sexily, and not freeze at the same time.

Juanjo Oliva and his Hitch­cockian clothes were a breath of fresh air. Unlike the music in the back­ground which made you feel quite un­comfort­able, suggesting there’s a psycho behind you, ready to stab you in the back when you’re not look­ing. It’s hard to focus on clothes when your mind is think­ing about quick death.

The next best thing that happened at Cibeles this edi­tion was, of course, David Delfin. His futur­istic Dyo­genes Syn­drome collec­tion was, as always, quite breath­taking. The most famous Span­ish designer always get a lot of atten­tion from the press not only because of his clothes, but also who he’s friends with. Unfortunately this time, in the front row, there was no Almódovar or Rosie de Palma, but only Bibi Andersen, famous transsexual movie and TV star. Delfin’s muse, ex-model, and musician Bimba Bose closed his catwalk with great style. She’s pregnant, by the way.

The same day Ana Locking showed her very colourful geometric collection—one of the most interesting of the week.

David Delfin


Ana Locking

The fourth day did not have an autumn–winter feel at all. There was a lot of lin­gerie (TCN), and colour­ful, fruity things (Adolfo Domin­guez, Sita Murt) that took you away for a bit for a vaca­tion. Latin Dreams by Andres Sarda was one big cliché. Then Miguel Pala­cio gave a good collec­tion: there was able tailor­ing, and a nice story behind the collec­tion. Domin­guez’s collection was one of the most commer­cialized brands to be shown at Cibeles, and not much besides can be said about his collec­tion for next winter.

Spain loves fur. Real fur. PETA doesn’t work well there, other­wise there would be a lot of paint used. This was not even on the run­ways: there were furs in front and back rows. There was fur on men and women, and even on child­ren. Fur lovers: go to Spain, it’s simply heaven for you.

continued

A resurgent Berlin
Vicki Matias gives her round-up of Berlin’s autumn–winter 2011–12 collections, with confidence the underlying theme
photographed by Maurice Luckett/Fashion Aviator and Anna-Priska Hübsch