|June 9, 2023 Follow us|
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Simple and sheer for a New York spring
Lola Saab is impressed by the feminine, elegant looks at many of the designers she attended during the spring shows at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, even though her week kicked off with a more masculine event
With a plethora of fashion shows, events and presentations in New York last September, there were so many aspects to look forward to. In a departure from usual proceedings, ESPN Fashion Week: Revenge of the Jocks featured a number of athletes and ESPN analysts during New York Fashion Week. From an athlete’s perspective of innovative style to a designer’s new collection on the runways, there were new designs, features and creations for the coming spring season.
ESPN Fashion Week
ESPN (Entertainment Sport Programming Network) partnered with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York to transform famous athletic male figures into fashionable icons as ‘athletes meet fashion.’ Sports journalist, television host and radio host, Stephen A. Smith alongside NFL reporter for ESPN, Michael Smith, sat down to discuss the importance of dressing up and looking good in the presence of stylist Calyann Barnett at the Box at Lincoln Center.
Barnett has a range of clients from the sports industry including professional basketball player of the Miami Heat, Dwyane Wade. The intimate event highlighted the fusion of two industries. A video presentation was featured as the chosen athletes and ESPN talents came together to change looks from refined to chic for ESPN The Magazine’s latest issue, ‘Revenge of the Jocks’. Famous personalities, including the New York Knicks’ Amar’e Stoudemire and Wade, take control as fashion editor and editor-in-chief, and provide their personal stylistic approach. As Stoudemire gave Michael Smith a makeover, Wade did the same for Stephen A. Smith. Professional hockey player for the New York Rangers, Henrik Lundqvist, gave ESPN’s Barry Melrose a new appearance.
Mesmerizingly bright colours invaded the runway with Custo Dalmau’s signature rock star looks. Body-conscious skirts with matching bras accompany see-through black tops. A number of other looks included swimsuits, dresses, shorts and pants which incorporated stunning prints. These prints were formed through the fusion of colours, creating aesthetically stunning results. Menswear followed a similar pattern but in a more masculine way, creating a strong fashion statement.
Alice & Olivia by Stacy Bendet
Stacy Bendet, the designer of Alice & Olivia, is known for her refined taste. Her new collection, presented at the Highline Stages, introduced voluminous skirts with meticulously detailed cardigans matched over a simple top. Other pieces ranged from shorts to long dresses, appropriate for either a walk in the park or a night out in town. Crystallized clutches added a flattering, shimmering effect to many ensembles. Alice & Olivia’s spring 2014 collection brings classy looks back to life. Bendet beautifully blended traditional American classics with an ultra-modern outlook.
Kati Stern presented her guests with a total of 73 haute couture ensembles, ranging from soft silky sensations to shimmering satin styles. Many of Stern’s designs are elegantly adorned with crystals and feathers, whereas some boast a more simplistic approach. A number of figure-hugging gowns are designed to accentuate a woman’s curves while allowing her to feel elegant and sexy, whether in a strapless or a one-shoulder piece.
Texas-born designer Lela Rose presented immaculately put together designs which underline a woman’s shape and colourful sense of style. The collection, predominantly consisting of dresses and gowns, featured fabulous patterns: an all-white ensemble with splashes of blues or reds reminds us of art on a canvas.
Fashion Shenzhen, which is a platform that promotes talented designers from Shenzhen, China, presented attendees with two designers, each with their own style. Guoxin Xia of Ellassay and Deng Hao showcased their designs within the infamous New York Fashion Week tents. Xia brought a look of simplicity with bold black and white, adding intricate detail embedded within each look. Hues of blues and shimmering whites emitted sparks of light within an elegant form.
As the venue went dark and the music suddenly shifted in tune, guests impatiently waited to see what else was in store. Hao presented her collection, providing dazzlingly dramatic colours mixed with a sense of intricacy. Her ensembles shifted between sensually hip-hugging chic to flowingly long and stylish, with a fashionable Asian vibe.
Alon Livné had a futuristic appeal, mixing an haute couture effect with a dash of fierceness. The Israeli designer made his runway début at New York Fashion Week, choosing to present unconventional chic: the eccentric pieces were stylish with a range of marvellous colours. Conventional shades, including black and white, were followed by remarkable strokes of blue and hot pink. Geometrical sculptural tops were elegantly matched with flowing silk chiffon skirts. Long gowns and pants were also present, providing a vast range. The designer kept each look simple, adding long funky see-through visors to some ensembles.
American luxury clothing and accessories’ designer, Ralph Rucci, who recently omitted the ‘Chado’ from his brand, took over the tents with glistening, iridescent white lights and an upbeat background track. Rucci, also renowned for his cocoon coats, opened his show with elegant black and white pieces that accentuated the figure. Simplicity dominated as bronze, coral and silver appeared like brushstrokes on the long runway. The fast-paced show included flawless tailoring and fit, while silk gave a sensual feel. Those couture touches were created by slight slits on dresses and tops.
Milly by Michelle Smith
A phenomenal splurge of colours on simplified cuts, as well as expressively fabulous prints, were present at Milly. The label’s innovative designer, Michelle Smith, who began her career in the fashion industry in Paris at internationally renowned haute couture houses such as Hermès and Christian Dior, reflected upon the feel of sensuality with sophistication. Sheer materials revealed some skin while sustaining a hint of mystery.
This season’s make-up was, like many collections, minimal, revealing natural beauty, pushing the focus on the colourful æsthetics of each ensemble. •
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Lola Saab is Paris editor of Lucire.
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