Milano: sophistication through subtlety
Jazz, Spain and the American west all played
their part in inspiring Milano designers for springsummer
2012, write Katherine Thomson and Ella Garland-Levett
PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS
DI MILANO, Milan Fashion Week,
brought a wide range of stunning collections for springsummer
2012. Although not as bold and colourful as previous fashion weeks,
we saw more Italian sophistication and elegance. Colour came out
in softer tones, used for accenting rather than to stop the show.
The patterns, too, were toned down and subtly beautiful.
Italian designer Manuel Facchini from Byblos (right)
created a beautiful collection in muted tones of bronze, gold and
creams. The collection had the perfect balance of tailoring and
simple, smooth silhouettes. Facchinis designs are creative
and innovative, strongly reflecting the essence of the brand and
following the meaning of time in a contemporary way.
Gimmo Etro, creator of Etro, showcased a very elegant
and simple collection. The prints and cuts made for unique garments.
Following a consistent jazz theme, Etros collection involved
thoughtful placement of print and slightly hidden layers of hair-like
fringing and pleats. The soft pastel silks and satins created a
fluid, feminine quality. The overall look was well finished by intricate
embroidery and the occasional appearance of bold metal earrings
Roberto Cavallis Just Cavalli (below left and
in right column) represents a young, western, romantic rock
spirit. The combination of western-style fringing, animal prints,
fur, suede, leather, metallic denim, delicate georgette,
crêpe de Chine and silk all work harmoniously together. Python,
butterfly and floral prints came in pastels, grey, beige, aquamarine,
yellow, gold and black. There is a combination of short shorts and
skirts alongside light, long maxi dresses. The trousers are very
skinny, with structured micro-jackets and snug trench coats.
Like Cavalli, fringing is also popular in Moschinos
collection this season. Inspired by Spanish culture and mythology,
we see torero mini-jackets and hats, capes, peasant dresses, flamenco
dancer ruffled dresses, fringed jackets, cowboy hats and high-waisted,
slim tight black trousers. Bold, gold embroideries tied the collection
together and linked well with the gold sandals. I particularly loved
the floral Spanish-inspired tall headpieces.
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