Filipe Faísca
FILIPE FAÍSCAS
COLLECTION WAS inspired by the desert and its tough environment
of evasion and disconnection. He was able to translate that into
sophisticated images and silhouettes of a city atmosphere, and as
a result he got a classic, eternal and feminine collection.
The colour palette showed a lot of metallics,
black and white, sand, khaki green and mint green, strawberry, carmin
and scarlet. Main fabrics used were silk and viscose jersey, silk
mousseline, crepe georgette and guipure lace.
Ricardo Preto
For this season, Preto searches for a new feminine silhouette, inspired
by the portrait of a woman who is sexy and sure of herself. He juggles
with different heights and lengths, and the classical shapes are
deconstructed with unexpected details. His strongest influences
were Paul Poiret and his ideal of a new female fashion, and Dagobert
Peche with his æsthetical eclecticism, made of undulant shapes
and full of movement.
The fabrics used were silk, poplin, cotton and
jersey. The colour palette is neutral: shades of grey, beige, blue,
brown and black, and some complementary colours, like coral and
chromium blue.
AlvesGonçalves
AlvesGonçalves (right and top) features free
and spontaneous templates and forms this season. The key materials
are organza brocade with metallic, silk jerseys and prints, silk
crèpe and laser-cut mousselines.
The styling presents an intense contemporary look
with an eclectic colour code with roses, greys, black, white and
spring prints.
Luis Buchinho
The inspiration of Luis Buchinho for his latest collection was the
African landscape at dusk. The rude and harsh environment of this
theme is carried through to a dynamic and urban collection, using
a set of lines that draw the body in a natural and organic way.
The use of organic raw materials reaffirms the
more natural side of the collection, in tones of white, black, sand,
tobacco, cinnamon, rust and dirt.
Buchinhos collection stood out in asymmetries,
colour contrasts and visual texture.
Cia Marítima by Benny Rosset
Morocco, with its mystical culture and an explosion of nuances,
smells and tastes, was the inspiration for Cia Marítimas
springsummer 2011 collection.
With a boho vintage style, this new collection
emerges as classic, but with personality reaching in to the contemporary.
It brings a blend of hippie glamour, with ethnicity and an exotic
air.
Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Mouras newest collection was based on observations
under optical microscopy, which she thinks is capable of carrying
our imagination to worlds that we might not normally contemplate.
The collection had a lot of asymmetry and rough
cuts, and the structures were defined in A-line, with boat necklines,
three-quarter sleeves and pleats.
The key materials that were used in this collection
were cotton, viscose and elastane, in tones of beige, light blue,
black, grey and rust.
 
Ana Salazar
Ana Salazars springsummer 2011 collection, Work in
Progress, features transparency, deconstruction, draping and
tailoring elements, resulting in a lighter and diversified look.
The silhouettes are tight, combined with draped
elements; lace and metal zippers contribute to texture and shine.
The designer used tulle and lace lacquer, followed
by multi-printed silks, textured fabrics, satins and mesh jersey.
Black was dominant, contrasting with the whites, metallic greys,
and prints in green bamboo and pink.
Nuno
Gama
Gamas collection, entitled Desire of the Sea, symbolizes
his passion for sea adventures, inspired by Nazares fishermen
and his recent trip to the Middle East.
From this combination of inspirations has emerged
a new menswear collection, with a new manly, dynamic and multicultural
image.
The concepts of comfort, practicality and cosmopolitanism,
and the etiquette of old European snobbery, are corrupted by a sarcastic
sense of humour and the strong visual impact of some garments.
continued
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Filipe Faísca
 
Ricardo Preto
 
Luis Buchinho
 
Cia Maritíma

Nuno Gama
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