Springtime in Lisboa

Aleksandar Protic
Aleksandar Protic’s spring–summer collection (right) continues his autumn–winter one that was inspired by the artist Georgia O’Keeffe, but with greater influences from her flower paintings’ period.
   Linens, silk georgette and leather were the main materials in this collection, in shades of grey, black and navy.

Dino Alves
Dino Alves’s collection proposes questions of identity, how we present ourselves and how we are perceived by others, and the various identities that we can take, mainly in the virtual world. The designer investigates the fact that all we often know is just a faceless body.
   Alves explored, above all, shape and colour combined with great refinement. Each silhouette had the visual appearance of a logo. On the runway, we saw very refined geometric shapes, overlapping panels and bidimensional volumes.

Katty Xiomara
Katty Xiomara brought one of the strongest collections to Moda Lisboa. Her Cubic Landscape collection was inspired by the idea of nature taking the city.
   Symmetrical lines, geometric and cubic shapes become more organic, imperfect and asymmetric. Green was the predominant colour, contrasting with tones of blue, white, and a dazzling hibiscus red.
   Colours were mixed with geometric and floral patterns. There were organic textures, in light but structured fabrics.

Pedro Pedro
Pedro Pedro’s newest collection (right) was inspired by William Morris, the poet and painter. Stylized, oversized flowers (Morris meets Warhol), watercolour motifs, bright colours and pastel hues were the key of the show.
   Organic and free forms marry postmodern moderation, leaving behind a retro romanticism.

Miguel Vieira
In Miguel Vieira’s collection, the designer asks us to picture a chess game with a seductive, mysterious and adventurous man, and an extremely sexy, smart, and irresistible woman. A game of seduction based around a perfect diversity; a duality of opposing elements that attracts and creates the perfect marriage, transmitting an image of class and sophistication. It sounds like a scene out of The Thomas Crown Affair.
   The women’s garments have hourglass, cocoon and tubular silhouettes. Men are dressed with structured suits. There are textured fabrics, hand-embroidery, lace, sequins, Lycra, satin, tulle and leather, and jacquard fabrics developed by the studio.
   Black, white, night blue and green are the main colours.

Ricardo Dourado
For spring–summer 2011, Ricardo Dourado presented a collection inspired by the touareg rebels and their costumes and customs, translated for the cosmopolitan woman for whom he caters.
   The materials are linen and silk. The colour palette is largely neutral, with whites and sands, contrasted with tagelmust blue.

Nuno Baltazar
Staying with the theme of collections inspired by his travels, Nuno Baltazar’s Dido & Aeneas (right) takes us to the opera by Purcell and its heroes.
   Feminine, Hellenic silhouettes are set against masculine, oversized garments. Irregular necklines and geometrical collars and yokes contrast with twisted and draped details, bias cuts, loose pleats and asymmetry. Natural accents in matte are contrasted with lustrous effects; the collection also features compact and billowing structures. Cotton canvas, linen and silk blends with viscose and cupro can be found.
   The Mediterranean colour palette includes rocky neutral colours, with contrasts. •