Aleksandar Protics springsummer collection (right)
continues his autumnwinter one that was inspired by the artist
Georgia OKeeffe, but with greater influences from her flower
Linens, silk georgette and leather were the main
materials in this collection, in shades of grey, black and navy.
Dino Alvess collection proposes questions of identity, how
we present ourselves and how we are perceived by others, and the
various identities that we can take, mainly in the virtual world.
The designer investigates the fact that all we often know is just
a faceless body.
Alves explored, above all, shape and colour combined
with great refinement. Each silhouette had the visual appearance
of a logo. On the runway, we saw very refined geometric shapes,
overlapping panels and bidimensional volumes.
Katty Xiomara brought one of the strongest collections to Moda Lisboa.
Her Cubic Landscape collection was inspired by the idea of
nature taking the city.
Symmetrical lines, geometric and cubic shapes
become more organic, imperfect and asymmetric. Green was the predominant
colour, contrasting with tones of blue, white, and a dazzling hibiscus
Colours were mixed with geometric and floral patterns.
There were organic textures, in light but structured fabrics.
Pedro Pedros newest collection (right) was inspired
by William Morris, the poet and painter. Stylized, oversized flowers
(Morris meets Warhol), watercolour motifs, bright colours and pastel
hues were the key of the show.
Organic and free forms marry postmodern moderation,
leaving behind a retro romanticism.
In Miguel Vieiras collection, the designer asks us to picture
a chess game with a seductive, mysterious and adventurous man, and
an extremely sexy, smart, and irresistible woman. A game of seduction
based around a perfect diversity; a duality of opposing elements
that attracts and creates the perfect marriage, transmitting an
image of class and sophistication. It sounds like a scene out of
The Thomas Crown Affair.
The womens garments have hourglass, cocoon
and tubular silhouettes. Men are dressed with structured suits.
There are textured fabrics, hand-embroidery, lace, sequins, Lycra,
satin, tulle and leather, and jacquard fabrics developed by the
Black, white, night blue and green are the main
For springsummer 2011, Ricardo Dourado presented a collection
inspired by the touareg rebels and their costumes and customs, translated
for the cosmopolitan woman for whom he caters.
The materials are linen and silk. The colour palette
is largely neutral, with whites and sands, contrasted with tagelmust
Staying with the theme of collections inspired by his travels, Nuno
Baltazars Dido & Aeneas (right) takes us
to the opera by Purcell and its heroes.
Feminine, Hellenic silhouettes are set against
masculine, oversized garments. Irregular necklines and geometrical
collars and yokes contrast with twisted and draped details, bias
cuts, loose pleats and asymmetry. Natural accents in matte are contrasted
with lustrous effects; the collection also features compact and
billowing structures. Cotton canvas, linen and silk blends with
viscose and cupro can be found.
The Mediterranean colour palette includes rocky
neutral colours, with contrasts.
Tiago Espirito Santo is Lisboa correspondent for Lucire.