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Lucire: Fashion
The Circuit


Lucire fashion feature
Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Drama and femininity Chado Ralph Rucci remains one of our favourites at New York Fashion Week

Unravelling the new

Complementing our print edition’s spring–summer 2013 preview, Paris editor Lola Saab reviews the New York collections to pick out her favourites for the new season

 

New York Fashion Week, like every season, has an uplifting and invigorating ambiance, filled with new collections prepared to glide down long runways. The Style Awards kicked off Fashion Week with a long list of attendees ready to celebrate. The following morning, the Tents were filled with guests anxious to get up close and personal with designers’ innovative creations for spring 2013.

 
Cesar Galindo


Mike Coppola/Getty Images

With a stylish close-up image of the New York City skyline as the background, models showed off Cesar Galindo’s collection at the Mohawk Showroom during the last day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Galindo’s mother was a dressmaker and his appreciation for design and fashion grew, leading him into the world of style he has come to share. The first time that America was introduced to his creations was in 1993 when supermodel Karen Mulder wore a silk kimono dress on the cover of Elle US.

His spring 2013 collection is induced with meticulous features, ranging from dresses and ensembles fit for a woman’s evening out on the town. The various hairstyles were fun, with high buns or curly and voluminous styles, a chic way to add a funky effect to Galindo’s creations. Some pieces were accompanied with crochet headpieces. While the make-up was kept effortless, the attention fell on the perfect light purple lips that added some contrast to the simplicity.

 
Bibhu Mohapatra

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Bibhu Mohapatra designed slightly geometric, almost futuristic eveningwear with fabulous three-dimensional prints for his new season’s collection. A slew of ensembles ranging from dresses, skirts and a few trousers revealed constant femininity with a couture-like touch. The make-up was simple, with light pink lips and a dash of dark pink under the eyes, exposing an intense look as the models had their hair perfectly divided in the middle and gelled back into a neat bun.

Norisol Ferrari


Neilson Barnard/Getty Images
Norisol Ferrari wowed people with her invigorating, sexy collection representing the peak of elegance and class. The designer proved that age is nothing but a number, choosing Carol Alt, Alva Chinn, Karen Bjornson, all in their 50s, and Carmen Dell’Orefice, in her early 80s, all legendary models, to walk the show. As they showed off Ferrari’s feminine creations, they smiled, twirled and even danced their way on the catwalk.

Guests were in for a treat as Rita Hayworth, Rita Moreno and Marilyn Monroe’s fabulous styles were revived with a more modern technique. Ferrari’s idea of slightly tipped wide-brimmed hats, high-waisted or sleek knee-high pants, and lavish hip-hugging dresses revealing some cleavage, were impeccably fashionable with classic shades of beige, black, grey and some hints of red.

Chado Ralph Rucci

Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

From the runway, Carmen Dell’Orefice made her way to the front row at the Chado Ralph Rucci show, where the designer splendidly adds a dash of darin. Other attendees included Martha Stewart, Paula Abdul and Jay Manuel. When emphasizing femininity, Rucci sure knows how to do it. Recognized for sustaining sheer European elegance, in 2002 Rucci became the first American designer in more than six decades to be invited by the French Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to show his collection in Paris. For the next three seasons, he presented his haute couture collections in the city of lights.

His new collection is enticing, with dramatic eye make-up and a hint of neon pink liner to accentuate a tantalizing allure that matches his fabulous ensembles. This season he induced fierce colours of hot pink and beguiling yellow. Feathers, puffed sleeves and even ball gown dresses had great appeal. Throughout each look, Rucci maintains the architectural sculpting and elaborate detailing he is recognized and highly appreciated for.

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Above Bibhu Mohapatra.



Above At Norisol Ferrari, including model Carmen Dell’Orefice walking the catwalk.

 

 

 

 



Lola Saab is Paris editor of Lucire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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