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London Fashion Week autumn–winter 2012–13, day 5 catwalk


February 21, 2012/23.18

Congratulations if you’ve made it through London Fashion Week watching the shows on our live streaming player—and for those of you who didn’t, we have videos from the autumn–winter 2012–13 collections of Peter Jensen, David Koma, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincić, Holly Fulton, Dion Lee, Emilio de la Morena, Ashish, Meadham Kirchoff, Aminaka Wilmont, Tata-Naka, and KTZ.
   Mary Katrantzou showed more ornate prints for the season, and continued to be particularly clever, incorporating her theme into the construction of her garments. There were more lampshade-style dresses, and she embroidered coats, dresses and skirts with everything from typewriter keys to spoons—her ‘pencil pencil skirt’ was literally made up of hundreds of pencils, thanks to Lesage.
   Roksanda Ilincić went with opulence for autumn–winter, her eveningwear long and flowing, while her slightly more casual daywear consisted of dresses and sweatshirts—albeit with fur trim. Colours included the obligatory black, grey and white for this season, but Ilincić punctuated them with a bright blue, red and yellow.
   We loved Holly Fulton’s colourful take on autumn. Inspired by the 1920s and D. H. Lawrence’s Lady Chatterley’s Lover, Fulton went further with a playful look with tight dresses and fringed skirts. High splits and cut-outs accentuated her sexy approach. While the art-déco influences remained present with the geometric bases to some of the designs, Fulton went for hot and wearable.
   Emilio de la Morena went back to his Spanish roots, with historical dresses as his starting-point. We saw heavy jackets, panelled dresses and wearable separates, with black, blue and burgundy his principal colours.
   Ashish’s collection yesterday afternoon, entitled Bollywouldn’t, was colourful and youthful, with a use of oversized graphic prints as well as spiritual motifs.
   Meadham Kirchoff was an afternoon highlight. Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff went back to the ’70s but brown and dreary Life on Mars it wasn’t. This was the bright funky side of the decade, one which wasn’t really there to this extent, but who cares? This is fashion for 2012–13 and goodness knows we need colour in our lives. Think Rocky Horror, but even brighter than that, with glitter, silver, gold and sequins, complemented by striped leggings and rainbow-coloured chiffon dresses.

Peter Jensen

David Koma

Mary Katrantzou

Roksanda Ilincić

Holly Fulton

Dion Lee

Emilio de la Morena


Meadham Kirchoff

Aminaka Wilmont



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