London Fashion Week autumn–winter 2012–13: day 1 catwalk

In case you missed them on our live-streaming player, our London Fashion Week coverage features videos from Antoni & Alison, Corrie Nielsen, Fyodor Golan, Bora Aksu, Felder Felder, Zoë Jordan, Maria Grachvogel, Jean-Pierre Braganza, PPQ, Basso & Brooke, Headonism, Jena Theo and Central St Martin’s. There’s also a day one highlight reel.
Antoni & Alison, the ﬁrst show, used an eclectic mixture of found art, which was photographed together, and turned into digital prints. We loved its creativity, and felt that London had got off to an excellent start.
Corrie Nielsen took a Scottish Highlands’ inspiration, speciﬁcally her great-great-great-grandfather, John S. Burns. Nielsen gave Scottish traditional dress a sculptural edge, which also helped make the styles more feminine and wearable.
Bora Aksu was inspired by the story of the Vivian sisters in Henry Darger’s In the Realms of the Unreal, showing a particularly delicate collection with bows, tulle and babydoll shapes. Baby pink and cream helped with the effect.
Felder Felder again used Kate Moss as its inspiration, but in the Johnny Depp era. It felt more like a summer collection, with chunky knits and leather jackets giving clues that this was, in fact, autumn–winter. Otherwise there were plenty of beaded tops, chiffon dresses, and short skirts. Everything, nevertheless, was wearable, and we can see the collection appealing to Felder Felder’s core customers.
Zoë Jordan’s autumn–winter 2012–13 collection took its inspiration from Alhambra in Andalucia, notably its architecture and colour, using a mixture of browns and greys. We saw ponchos and chunky knits, all done with a particularly luxe edge.
Jean-Pierre Braganza’s Chandelerium collection used largely darker shades—black and deep purple—punctuated by lilac. The Braganza woman is reﬁned and elegant this season, with the surprise in the silhouette being his strong shoulder lines; the woollen coats were one of the must-haves from this designer, as well as his prints which were meant to be a ‘mind altering chandelier trip’.
Showing at Goldsmiths’ Hall, Basso & Brooke has continued to show sumptuous prints, layering patterns—including the houndstooth—to excellent effect.