As Paris Fashion Week begins drawing to a close, we show off photographs from Collette Dinnigan, and videos from Akris, Anthony Vaccarello, and Elie Saab.
Collette Dinnigan showed a romantic collection in the ballroom of Le Meurice Hotel, but it was tinged with a darker feel. The collection, entitled Highlander, took inspiration from Braveheart and Mad Max. There were evening gowns, with silk and tulle, but Dinnigan used fabrics that gave the impression of shards of ice. Mad Max came through with ﬁshnet tops and dresses giving the impression of worn metal. The new direction worked for the mood of the times: slightly uncertain but constantly edgy.
Albert Kriemler at Akris again kept lines simple, but the patch effect and panelled dresses, blouses and coats had an energy to them, thanks to his inspiration from Franz Kline’s Painting No. 7, a 1952 work consisting of bold, black slashes.
Anthony Vaccarello went with a dark blue satin look, taking masculine tailoring but ﬁtting it properly to the models, and often deconstructing it, to show off a lean, feminine silhouette. It wasn’t all blue: Vaccarello went with emerald green and gold, too, but staying ﬁrm with the idea of reinterpreting masculine items.
Elie Saab also stayed close to the female form, keeping his autumn–winter 2012–13 designs practical with his jackets, tops and high-waisted trousers. His dresses, meanwhile, surprised with a bare-branch look with cobweb lace inserts, before settling into sequinned eveningwear in emerald green, gold and grey.