It’s not that we haven’t kept up with the row over the Miley Cyrus photographs taken by Annie Leibovitz for Vanity Fair, which sexualize the teenage star, but I have to draw the line somewhere when it comes to news coverage.
   There are quarters in fashion publishing which would deem these photographs appropriate and artistic, just as Leibovitz claimed, and we ourselves have featured teens in and even on the cover of Lucire, looking probably older than they really are.
   But if a subject comes to me and tells me that she is embarrassed by a series of photographs, and for a cover decision she may well be in the know, then that’s good enough reason for me to have a meeting or a big office poll about it.
   And that’s just what Cyrus, star of the beloved Hannah Montana series, has said of her half-naked bedroom shot.
   In normal circumstances, this matter would be worked out privately between the Cyrus family and Vanity Fair’s publishers.
   Which makes this all rather odd: has the crisis surrounding these images been manufactured? One commenter on a Murdoch Press website seems to think so and, knowing how cover decisions are made, especially those that are potentially controversial, I am seriously tempted to agree.
   Reports suggest that Cyrus’s father, singer Billy Ray Cyrus, was present through most of the shoot.
   What I do know is that the modelling agencies we would work with are protective of their talent and we agree on many aspects of the shoot prior to starting when it involves a young girl—and that means overt sexualization is out.

For once many of the press have taken a moral high ground and that is, at least, pleasing to see, even if I have questions on their consistency. The Fairfax Press noted:

Every artist wants to subvert hypocrisy and artifice. And childhood, after all, is the ultimate artificial construction. It exists only because responsible adults deliberately set out to protect children from predators and situations their young brains are not yet wired to deal with.
   But in an era in which all taboos must be broken, the reigning philosophy is that every truth must be told, every emotion liberated, no matter how destructive, or unreasonable, because there is nothing worse than repression.
   Well—news flash—yes, there are worse things: child neglect, sexual abuse, childhoods cut short, depression, eating disorders, academic failure, violence against women, and all other manifestations of the premature sexualisation and objectification of girls in our culture.

   Interestingly, the op-ed in the Fairfax Press touches on similar subjects to a blog comment that I wrote in discussion with William Shepherd, a marketing expert based in California—one of those smart netizens who reminds me of the days in the 1990s when most people on the ’net were of a certain intellectual level.
   He wrote, on the topic of pornography in Brazil:

However, I find it hard to imagine that Brazil has an issue with porn. They should have a concern with AIDS, the cheap sex and underage labor that Brazil offers to Sex Industry. …
   [W]ill blocking wordpress sites stop white slavery, sexual abuse towards young children, men from going to Brazil to engage in power driven sex events that hurt the fiber of global culture, and humanity? …
   Sex is what it has always been. Yet, the online media has tried to make porn a staple of global culture and economics.

   When I think about these words today, it’s not just the online media, as Vanity Fair and others have shown us.
   I do, after all, see the irony of citing the Murdoch Press when it popularized the page-three girl and sensationalist stories founded in sex.
   At the risk of offending fans of certain TV shows, I responded:

The sex economy, the fixation on sex, are not good things for us to be so focused on, yet I don’t like it being constantly propagated even through prime-time shows such as the old Friends or Desperate Housewives.
   I do not regard myself a prude but you are right: there are more pressing things to be concerned about, and I’m far too busy to find double-entendres in every sitcom appealing.

   While sex is as woven in to Desperate Housewives as it was into Benny Hill, and those watching it at its late hour (past the watershed?) know what to expect, it gets an awful lot of publicity in TV promos with their share of suggestive imagery at other times. OK, it wasn’t the best example of a TV show (which I watched at one point), but the old Friends certainly was. I think it’s difficult to disagree that we have become too obsessed with sex in our society and those early seasons of Friends depended less on characterization and more on innuendo, not often that subtle.
   At the idealistic level there is nothing wrong with this when it comes to showing behaviour between consenting adults—it’s less objectionable than seeing the extreme violence that has now made it on to prime-time television—but we now face the danger of it going further and further into promoting promiscuity among the young. Expand sex’s reach, and you arouse greater curiosity in our youngest citizens at an earlier age. It’s like lowering the drinking age to 18, as had happened in New Zealand: now it’s not 17-year-olds sneaking in three years before they are legal, but 14-year-olds with fake IDs.
   That curiosity around sex has always been there with those who are 11 or 12, as any of you reading this will know, but the signals are telling us that as adults we need to give more guidance, and we need to take a stand against marketing that encourages sex at a time when mentally, young people are not prepared for the consequences.
   And it was interesting to read that I am not alone in my assessment; in fact mine seems ill-educated alongside that of an author who has devoted a book to the subject. Fairfax again:

[Melbourne child psychologist, Michael Carr-Gregg] said internet porn, with hardcore sites available to children at a mouseclick, “has completely changed the sexual behaviour of young women, [particularly] the obsession with oral sex.” Young girls, he said, have been encouraged to behave “almost as predators, as if [a boy] is some sort of game animal they want to bag”.
   Again, he blamed parents for creating “a culture of entitlement and indulgence [in which they] are hesitant to set limits around sleep or internet use. Democracy doesn’t work in families. You have to have a benign dictatorship.”
   In a new book, Prude: How The Sex-Obsessed Culture Damages Girls, Carol Platt Liebau writes that “an incremental but aggressive sexualising of [our] culture … [has created] a status quo in which almost everything seems focused on what’s going on ‘below the waist’.”

   As long as we sit back, tut-tut when the items make the news but fall back on not caring at other times, then we have lost yet another value. Add that to a huge list in the west—and the east—since the end of World War II.
   If certain institutions are being so aggressive as Liebau writes, then adults need to be as aggressive. ‘Benign dictatorship’, in the words of Carr-Gregg, probably describes the families many of us had—and we turned out all right.
   It was a sort-of democracy in my household because my parents involved me in every family-affecting major decision and I earned their trust so I never had a curfew. But that was earned—and I was probably lucky I had a good conscience or spirit guide, or something directing me.
   Not everyone is so fortunate, and in this day and age, it’s not a bad idea to be strongly involved in our children’s lives because that moral compass no longer comes from those cohesive, homogeneous communities of old, nor does it come from the media, at least not regularly or consistently. We, the regular people, are the last and possibly only resort in our respective families.

Our editor-at-large Summer Rayne Oakes has been named the fourth best dressed person by the Sustainable Style Foundation, up from fifth last year. Congratulations! Number one by ’09!

UK model of the moment, Agyness Deyn, will release a single, according to British media today.
   It will be her first foray into music, in collaboration with New York-based band Five O’Clock Heroes.
   Deyn contributed some vocals to the song, ‘Who’, and will appear in the video.

For those who felt that 13 Mbyte for the free 52 pp. Lucire PDF supplement was too much, we have now created a 72 dpi version at 6 Mbyte. The original theory was that if there are people downloading music and movies, then 13 Mbyte might not be too much—but we recognize not everyone has access to swift broadband lines. So the 6 Mbyte PDF is designed for those with slightly slower internet speeds, and we’ve put it up again at Rapidshare. Click here for the supplement to get a taste of Lucire.

‘Oh, duck! I canardly believe it! The new Mini Cooper S Clubman!’
   One of the shots we won’t publish (in print) from my 35 mm roll.

There are only 8,000 each for him and for her of the Diesel Fuel for Life Special Edition bottles, launched December 2007—and if you search, you may still be able to find some at ‘exclusive sales outlets’. We had to mention it since we think this is the coolest looking bottle for the first part of ’08.

   Meanwhile, photographer Matthew Plummer went along to the Little Brother show in Wellington, New Zealand and took some catwalk shots—we really loved these since they aren’t your ordinary “photographers’ pit” stuff. Some of Matthew’s work will be in the next print edition of Lucire.
   Speaking of the next print edition, Elyse Glickman has an interview with very hip, celeb-favourite LA label Hale Bob—and it was interesting to note that there has been African inspiration there. It’s evident in one of the collection photographs: embellished, raw and stylish. This pic probably won’t run due to space reasons, so here’s a chance to enjoy it now.

    Finally, in terms of happenings for our team, hop over to the beauty pages: our Mari Johnson has been to the Qua Bottle Lounge in downtown Austin, Texas—read about her experiences here.

Online today in the ‘Volante’ section, our most well travelled team members, Stanley Moss and Elyse Glickman, go to Firenze and Québec City respectively. Both places have their specialities, with Stanley discovering a hideaway to get away from the bustle of Firenze—which seems extra-hectic these days with work on the metropolitana—while Elyse revisited Québec City for the first time in nearly 20 years.
   Font nuts like the publisher might notice a slight change in typeface—more on this later.

Online today: a preview of the H&M summer 2008 range (left), which the company says is inspired by hot, exotic locations such as India and Africa.
   This is clearly in the Zeitgeist: the same week we receive Peter Alexander’s latest catalogue (below), which has an African-inspired collection. There’s something about Africa this summer, so let’s hope that translates into awareness of the continent’s issues that we, as a planet, can help with.
  Speaking of exoticism, we do have our special on Katherine Mansfield, the famous New Zealand author—and possibly its ‘first fashionista’, online, for those who missed it earlier this month. The exhibition of her property—including her clothing, perfume bottles and jewellery—is still on in Wellington, and we highly recommend a visit to understand the New Zealand fashion character.

Click on centre of image to play

World-renowned burlesque performer Dita von Teese and Cointreau, the famous French orange liqueur, hosted a lavish debut party in New York for their first collaborative effort, the Be Cointreauversial Show at the Angel Orensanz Foundation at 172 Norfolk Street.
   Over 500 guests turned out including Jason Lewis, Russell Simmons and Porschla Coleman, Nacho Figueras, Andrew Buckler, Adam Lippes, Liz Goldwyn, Hope Atherton, Tara Subkoff, Dylan Lauren, Catherine Malandrino, Nicole Miller, Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos, Kelly Killoren, Aimée Mullins, Simon Hammerstein, Jill Zarin, Countess Luann de Lesseps, Jazleen, RuPaul, Zaldy, Kai Kühne, Casey Spooner, Susanne Bartsch, Traver Rains, and Richie Rich.
   Party revellers sipped Cointreaupolitans and Cointreau margaritas before being treated to the highlight of the night, the reveal of the Be Cointreauversial Show. Strutting on stage in her crystal-encrusted costume, designed by Catherine D’Lish (made of 350,000 Swarovski crystals and weighing approximately 75 lb) she posed and pranced before plunging into a Martini glass. She dazzled the crowd with a performance that proved to be a dizzying blend of grace, wit and pure femininity. The show ended in a brilliant blaze of violet light as Dita took a sip of the new cocktail, the Cointreau Teese, and winked at the crowd. Waiters then made their way into the crowd with trays of the new violet coloured cocktail.
   The show was conceived by Dita as an evocation of the Cointreau world. Cointreau and its unique ‘French touch’ has thrived for more than 160 years without changing anything, from the shape of its legendary bottle to its delicate and instantly recognizable orange flavour. It was only natural to join the iconic image of Cointreau to the world of Dita von Teese and her carefully crafted character, a blend of retro and modernity mixed in with the ultimate feminine freedom of thought.
   ‘With this performance, I wanted to express the sensual and delicious first sip of a Cointreau cocktail while sparkling with the essence of the Parisian history of the liqueur,’ said von Teese.

I’ve heard from Brad at Peace Love Life, who has been doing T-shirts to help worthy causes around the world.
   The latest range: to help raise money for various areas, in collaboration with Invisible Children (working in Uganda) and Sisters of Rwanda.
   In Brad’s words, ‘I believe these are our most fashionable, yet most powerful products yet. We really want to make an impact on the world with these shirts.’ I believe so, too.