Lucire: News


November 24, 2015

Video and photos: double win for J. W. Anderson at British Fashion Awards 2015; Gwendoline Christie wins Style Award

Lucire staff/3.01

Mike Marsland/British Fashion Council

Jonathan Anderson, the man behind the label J. W. Anderson, has scooped both the men’s and women’s Designer of the Year awards at the British Fashion Awards last night, held at the Coliseum in London.
   Anderson has previously won the men’s prize, in 2014, the New Establishment Designer award in 2013, and the Emerging Womenswear Designer award in 2012.
   As detailed earlier by the British Fashion Council, Karl Lagerfeld won the Outstanding Achievement Award for his contribution to the fashion industry.
   Other heavyweight names on the night included Tom Ford, who was recognized with the Red Carpet award, for creating global awareness of one’s designs in the media (Lady Gaga collected on his behalf); Burberry, with the Creative Campaign award for its editorial and advertising; and Alessandro Michele for Gucci as the International Designer.
   The much-acclaimed Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator was given to Nick Knight, for his contribution to the global fashion industry.
   Charlotte Olympia won the Accessory Designer award, and Stella McCartney was recognized as the best brand. Erdem won the Establishment Designer award for its retail and ecommerce presences, while Mary Katrantzou won the New Establishment Designer award.
   Jourdan Dunn won the award for Model of the Year. Game of Thrones actress Gwendoline Christie was named the winner of the British Style Award, which was voted on by 6,000 people.
   Of the three emerging designer awards, the winners were Thomas Tait for womenswear, Grace Wales Bonner for menswear, and Jordan Askill for accessories.
   VIPs attending or presenting included British Fashion Council chair Natalie Massenet, Victoria and David Beckham, Tinie Tempah, Cheryl Fernandez-Versini, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Sarah Burton, Naomi Campbell, Anna Wintour, Angela Scanlon, Liv Tyler, Nick Grimshaw, Lily Allen, Poppy Delevingne, Rita Ora, Robert Konjic, Mollie King, Alexa Chung, Yasmin Le Bon, Laura Bailey, Pierre Denis, Imran Amed, Markus Lupfer, Gareth Pugh, Elisa Sednaoui, Michael Polish, Sandra Choi, Alexandra Shulman, FKA Twigs, Sophie Dahl, Sam Rollinson, Jack Whitehall, Jim Chapman, Immy Waterhouse, Elisa Sednaoui, Georgia May Jagger, Olga Kurylenko, Olivier Rousteing, Faustine Steinmetz, Harold Tillman, Jefferson Hack, Marc Hare, Christopher Raeburn, Stephen Jones, Molly Goddard, Susanna Lau, Kate Beckinsale, Mario Testino, Malaika Firth, Jamie Bochert, Charlotte Simone, Edie Campbell, Lulu Kennedy, Salma Hayek and François-Henri Pinault, Roksanda Ilincić, Lilah Parsons, Katie Grand, Carson McColl, Giles Deacon, Lewis Hamilton, Nadja Swarovski, Daisy Lowe, David Burton, David Koma, Lara Stone, Lucky Blue Smith, Fernando Jorge, Sid Bryan, Jack Guinness, Sarah-Jane Crawford, Pixie Lott and Oliver Cheshire, Helen Wright, Emilia Wickstead, Erin O’Connor, Anya Hindmarch, Henry Holland, Noomi Rapace, Craig Green, Adrian Joffe, Astrid Andersen Mollie King, Jo Elvin, Patrick Grant, Peter Pilotto, Sophia Sanchez de Betak, Christopher de Vos, Christopher Kane, Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, Joseph Altazurra, Richard Nicoll, Tanya Burr, Kate Bosworth, Karlie Kloss, Joanna Lumley and Jennifer Saunders (as Patsy Stone and Eddy Monsoon), Orlando Bloom, Suzy Menkes, Alasdhair Willis, Alice Dellal, Chloë Green, Arizona Muse and Amy Cole.
   Sponsors for the evening included principal partner Swarovski, presenting partners MAC and Toni & Guy, and official sponsors Ciroc, Marks & Spencer, Mercedes-Benz and St Martins Lane. Other supporters included Diptyque Paris, Fashion & Beauty Monitor, Fiji Water, Nikki Tibbles, Warsteiner and Wild at Heart.

Red carpet

Gwendoline Christie interview

Lucky Blue Smith

Suzy Menkes

Jack Whitehall

Alessandro Michele

Rita Ora


Jourdan Dunn

Lady Gaga

Mike Marsland/British Fashion Council

Winners’ enclosure
Lady Gaga accepts on behalf of Tom Ford

Jourdan Dunn

Karl Lagerfeld


Alessandro Michele for Gucci

Stella McCartney

J. W. Anderson, Menswear Designer of the Year

J. W. Anderson, Womenswear Designer of the Year

Mike Marsland/British Fashion Council

Highlight reel

November 18, 2015

A masterful Graduation Season at the New Zealand School of Dance, with two world premières

Jack Yan/14.14

Stephen A’Court

Top Concerto, part of the New Zealand School of Dance Graduation Season 2015. Above Sarah-Foster Sproull’s Forgotten Things, with the unfamiliar sight of a string of fists, waving in the space.

The New Zealand School of Dance Graduation Season performances, which began tonight (Wednesday), are always a highlight. It’s the culmination of a lot of hard work from second- and third-year students, and the six performances this year offer a very entertaining mix, especially for lovers of classical ballet.
   In previous years, the NZSD has put more contemporary dance on the menu, but the mixture in tonight’s programme was equally welcome. Paquita, the grand-pas, kicked off the evening, choreographed by Anna-Marie Holmes after Marius Petipa. The students showed immense promise, and we wouldn’t be surprised to see many of them dance professionally in ballet before long. Yayoi Matches, in the title role, and Yuri Marques da Silva, who hails from Brazil, danced the role of Lucien, increasingly captivated us during the performance. The costumes were hand-made by Donna Jefferis, assisted by the students of the Diploma of Costume Construction at Toi Whakaari: New Zealand Drama School, according to the NZSD.
   Forgotten Things took us to the other end of the spectrum with an incredibly inventive contemporary performance. With bare arms and hands, contrasting the black outfits worn by every dancer, we were exposed to unusual shapes: what does a string of fists look like as they wave in mid-air like the legs of a squid in the sea, or the hands of two dozen dancers opened out in antler formation? The idea behind the dance was to show cell division, phagocytosis and metamorphosis, translating the microscopic to human size. The beauty came from the fluid movement unusual shapes that we form with our arms, legs and hands when they are put together en masse, and we’d go so far as to say this was the cleverest dance of the evening. Sarah Foster-Sproull, a graduate herself, choreographed in her fourth commission, collaborating with the students: although trained in classical dance while at NZSD, she now choreographs contemporary dance, and, based on what we saw, very successfully. The second- and third-year students here gelled, and this dance showcased their coordination. The level of rehearsal in Forgotten Things, a world première, was evident.
   Cnoditions of Entry (the misspelling is intentional) was another contemporary première, and hugely enjoyable. NZSD alumnus Thomas Bradley (class of 2012), choreographed and provided the score made up of electronica and bass noises, and even designed the costumes along with Jefferis. Bradley’s notes indicate that the dance was in two parts: the first created a mutual understanding between them; the second conveying ‘exhaustion suspension apology and defeat’. It began in darkness, with orange-hooded, androgynous dancers huddled in a group. Abrupt movements, angular, backwards steps conveyed a confusion, as though the society that had been formed was suddenly devoid of structure or rules, feeling like the aftermath of war. Rectangular lights shone on the two sides of the stage as dancers struggled to move toward it, escaping their personal prisons; the term ‘techno-dystopia’ came to mind.
   Tarantella, a George Balanchine ballet with the masterful (and new father, with a one-month-old baby) Qi Huan as the répétiteur, saw us say at the conclusion of the pas de deux: ‘Hire these two now.’ Danced by Megan Wright and Jeremie Gan, this light-hearted yet passionate ballet needed the pair to master some very quick steps and changes of directions, and while inspired by Neapolitan street dance, the foundation is classical. It is not an easy ballet but we couldn’t fault either Wright or Gan.
   Playing the game of contrasts in the programme, the contemporary As It Fades, originally commissioned by T.H.E Dance Company of Singapore and created by Kuik Swee Boon in 2011, was an energetic performance, and showed what the dancers were capable of, with strong, purposeful movements, accompanied by the strings in Max Richter’s ‘Jan’s Notebook’ and ‘November’, which painted a world struggling to understand itself. The tension sharply vanished at the end where a dancer was surrounded by the others, caught in a chair, exhausted, breathing heavily, conveying that notion of defeat and solitude. As the performance ended, the Richter score did not feel out of place in a bleak science-fiction film from the turn of the 1970s, with credits rolling as a dancer walked off-stage into the darkness, making us wonder what lay beyond the abyss. It was very clever, and got us ready for the final performance.
   That final performance was Concerto, an abstract ballet choreographed by Kenneth MacMillan after he joined the Deutsche Oper in Berlin, with a musical score by Dmitri Shostakovich (many audiences will know his work not from ballet but from the theme tune of Reilly: Ace of Spies; this was his ‘Piano Concerto No. 2 in F’), that premièred in 1966, staged here by Lynn Wallis and coached by Stephen Beagley. Two pianists provided the Shostakovich score, while the 29 NZSD dancers were resplendent in yellow, orange and red, in costumes courtesy of the Australian Ballet. How could one not feel upbeat? The three movements began with the allegro, the corps de ballet doing a well coordinated en pointe, with Yeo Chan Yee and George Liang as the central couple performing some very skilful, quick turns. By this point the classical dancers were all in the swing of things, and there was not a single hesitation as Concerto moved to the andante and a romantic pas de deux from Lola Howard and Jerry Wan, before the final movement that opened with a beautiful solo from Georgia Powley before the ensemble brought the performance to a spirited, optimistic close.
   The Graduation Season runs till November 28 at the New Zealand School of Dance at at Te Whaea: National Dance & Drama Centre, 11 Hutchison Road, Newtown, Wellington, New Zealand. Each performance is at 7.30 p.m. except for Sunday and Monday; matinees are at 2 p.m. on Sunday, November 22 and Saturday, November 28. Tickets are NZ$33 for adults, NZ$25 for students, seniors and groups of 10 or more, and NZ$18 for children under 13. Bookings are available online.—Jack Yan, Publisher

Stephen A’Court

Top New Zealand School of Dance student Yuri Marques da Silva. Above Georgia Rudd and Christopher Mills.

Amber Griffin

November 13, 2015

Footwear shopping: Kendall Jenner, Kylie Jenner choose Uggs; Snkr launches in New Zealand for sneaker aficionados

Lucire staff/9.13

Michael Simon

Kendall Jenner and her sister Kylie shopped for Classic Slim styles at the Ugg Australia flagship store at 600 Madison Avenue, New York. The sisters are Ugg fans, Kylie choosing the black Bethany design and Kendall the chestnut-coloured Amie. The Classic Slim line has a slimmer silhouette, as the name implies, and has improved arch support and traction, says the company. Kendall also chose the Ugg Shearling Trapper hat, Alena slippers and the Ugg Classic boots, while Kylie bought the Scuff slipper and Classic boots.
   The Banks Group has launched Snkr, a footwear retailer that focuses exclusively on sneakers, recognizing that they are fashion statements unto themselves. In the words of the company, ‘It’s a celebration of the art of sneaker design and the undying love of sneaker collectors. It’s a place where sneaker addicts feel understood.’ Brands include Nike, Adidas, and New Balance, among others. Like all new retailers, you have the option of ordering online at—though Snkr also has physical branches in Wellington (Lambton Quay store shown), Lower Hutt and Riccarton, New Zealand.

Michael Simon

Nike Air Max Thea Premium, NZ$179·99.

New Balance 530 Athleisure in white, NZ$199·99.

Converse Chuck Taylor All Star Lux Missoni Mid, NZ$159·99.

November 4, 2015

News in brief: Deadly Ponies’ Len Lye tribute collection; Net-a-Porter group launches All for You campaign

Lucire staff/12.04

Deadly Ponies will launch a capsule collection in honour of New Zealand-born artist Len Lye (1901–80) in November. Lye’s experimental films saw him scratch, paint and stencil directly on to film; he was also a gifted and well known sculptor. Working with the Len Lye Foundation and the New Zealand Film Archive, Deadly Ponies has re-created the energy from Lye’s work on to a series of bags, wallets and scarves. The launch commemorates the recent opening in July of the Len Lye Centre in New Plymouth, an initiative between the Foundation and the Govett–Brewster Gallery, which houses much of Lye’s work.
   Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter have launched a joint campaign for the holidays, showing how a package gets from origin to recipient, but with a fanciful twist, where models in chiffon gowns get garments from rails, paper butterflies become pocket squares, and each package gets a spritz of perfume. Released on November 3 and directed by Us, the British creative directors Christopher Barrett and Luke Taylor, the campaign emphasizes the two brands’ personalized service, hashtagged #AllforYou.
   Alison Loehnis, president of the Net-a-Porter Group said, ‘Our first joint campaign, All for You, highlights the year-round mission of our businesses: to deliver exceptional service and style to our customers around the globe, making Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter the ultimate online destinations for luxury gifting this holiday season.’

November 3, 2015

Burberry launches festive campaign with Sir Elton John, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Naomi Campbell, Michelle Dockery

Lucire staff/23.48

Dan Medhurst

Dave Benett

Burberry has launched a new promotion for Christmas that pays tribute to Billy Elliot, featuring Sir Elton John, Naomi Campbell, James Corden, Julie Walters (who starred in the original film), Romeo Beckham, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Michelle Dockery, James Bay, George Ezra and Toby Huntington-Whiteley.
   â€˜Billy Elliot is an incredible film full of so much joy and energy, so it was a real thrill and a great honour to be able to celebrate its 15-year anniversary through our festive campaign. It was also a huge privilege to work with such amazing and iconic British talent—the cast are quite simply some of the biggest names in film, music and fashion and it was so much fun working with them all to make this special film,’ said Burberry CEO Christopher Bailey. Bailey, as chief creative officer for the firm, also directed the three-minute promotion, which was shot at Park Royal Studios in London.
   The three-minute film, which features original footage from Billy Elliot and ‘Cosmic Dancer’ by T Rex, received its première at Burberry’s flagship store at 121 Regent Street before it was released online at 7 p.m. tonight. Sir Elton, Walters, Campbell, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Beckham and Bailey were among the VIPs present. It then launched on Burberry’s own website and various channels such as Instagram, YouTube, Facebook and Weibo till the end of the year.
   Mario Testino shot the related stills for the campaign featuring Campbell, Beckham, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and James Bay.
   The release coincides with Burberry making its full festive gifts’ range, including its heritage trench coat and cashmere scarf, available both online and in stores. Its Book of Gifts also débuts today at its website.
   Burberry will also donate £500,000 to be split between two charities, Place2Be and the County Durham Community Foundation, which help the Easington community where Billy Elliot was set.

Art and fashion, fashion and art

Lucire staff/12.19

Above Designs from Olga Lomaka’s look book.

Above Olga Lomaka with Sophie Ellis-Bextor.

Fashion, much like contemporary art, is often misunderstood by society. Unwearable, kitsch and simply bizarre are just some of the words used to describe that wedding dress from last month’s Jean Paul Gaultier show. A lot of fashion statements over the last few years have been causing a stir of controversy in the masses. Why has fashion become so “statemented” and why can it be hard to accept, just like it once was hard to accept Andres Serrano’s Piss Christ?
   Contemporary art has been causing a mixed reaction for nearly as long as it had existed. Is it a good idea to bring it into the everyday objects and turn it into fashion? I decided to find that out for myself through the works of Olga Lomaka, a London-based thought-provoking artist that has recently launched her own clothing line. ‘Art and fashion are so intertwined,’ says Olga. ‘They are a way of self-expression and self-identification. Fashion is the oxygen that makes me who I am, a mirror that reflects my personality and makes me unique.’ For her, taking art out of its usual framework of confined galleries and museums was the cornerstone of her project, Parasites of the Mind. Like a missionary, Lomaka tried breaking down the boundaries and turning an everyday object, such as a simple sweatshirt, into an art object, thus bringing art to the masses. Just like how fashion broke out of élitist circles into the crowds many years ago; just like Andy Warhol blurred the line between a supermarket and an art gallery with a simple Campbell’s Soup can.
   It kept me wondering whether popularizing something as precious as art would take it a step too far to losing its own value. The value of thought, the meaning. Would a consumer even pay any attention to it? Would they see the effort behind it or would they just spot a pretty bright pattern that is so “in” this season?
   â€˜Transforming art on to fabric takes it to a new level, making it easier for everyone and anyone to reach. Nowadays art no longer shows privilege or relation to the upper class, which makes the artist open to a wide audience and allows him [to] create without hindrance and restrictions. If anything, the prints of Parasites of the Mind on sweatshirts add more value to the original pieces. They make the art even more sought-after and are interesting to the public, showing modern views and cultural values … Thanks to this, as an artist, my dialogue with the viewer became so much more intimate … If a person is interested in modern art, follows trends and has a basic understanding of psychology he won’t be shouting about it. Instead, his intelligence will be seen through [the] actions and objects that surround him.’—Elina Lukas

Karl Lagerfeld to be awarded Outstanding Achievement Award at 2015 British Fashion Awards

Lucire staff/11.34

As with previous years, the British Fashion Council has announced its Outstanding Achievement Award winner at the British Fashion Awards before the big night: Karl Lagerfeld will receive the award on November 23 at the Coliseum in London.
   The Council notes that Lagerfeld’s contribution is ‘unrivalled’: ‘For over fifty years Karl Lagerfeld has remained a formidable force in the fashion industry and has taken the helm of numerous iconic houses—including Chloé and Fendi. His eye for detail has proved transferable, juggling successful careers as photographer, publisher and art director alongside his numerous design undertakings.’
   It credits Lagerfeld for turning Chanel into a ‘global superbrand’, redefining fashion advertising and establishing how a brand can be revived.
   Previous winners included Alexander McQueen (posthumously), Sir Paul Smith, Manolo Blahnik, Terry and Tricia Jones, and Anna Wintour.
   Natalie Massenet, chairman of the Council, stated, ‘Karl Lagerfeld defines outstanding. He is the champion of excellence, the master of the exceptional and one of the most iconic figures globally from our industry. His life’s work for his own and so many extraordinary brands has written the language of fashion. He is the ultimate visionary and we celebrate not only the decades already passed but those yet to happen. In Karl’s hands the future of fashion will be an exceptional one.’
   This year’s sponsors include MAC, Toni & Guy, Marks & Spencer, Mercedes-Benz and St Martin’s Lane Hotel.

October 27, 2015

Hello Kitty Men collaborates with Undercover, Sise, Jam Home Made, Dresscamp, Patchy Cake Eater, Yoshio Kubo

Lucire staff/3.16

In one of the unlikeliest brand extensions, Sanrio has launched the Hello Kitty Men collection for autumn–winter 2015–16. Announced two years ago to commemorate Hello Kitty’s 40th anniversary, the brand has now collaborated with six Tokyo men’s brands—Undercover, Sise, Jam Home Made, Dresscamp, Patchy Cake Eater and Yoshio Kubo—to show that it’s a trendy choice for the chaps. At an event on October 16, Hello Kitty showed off its latest to 500 guests.
   Designer Yuko Yamaguchi noted that she had had a lot of requests from men who don’t see Hello Kitty as exclusively girly, and even high school boys who are sons of women who grew up with Hello Kitty are partial toward a men’s collection.
   Yamaguchi said, ‘Looking toward the next generation, I think we must have fans among men as well as women. Since I’m a woman, it’s difficult for me to always know what men want, so I’m delighted that we’ve been able to collaborate with all these wonderful people. It was quite a challenge to design Hello Kitty with men in mind, and I’m really satisfied with how well all of these collaboration items manage to express the various brand colours. Listening to the reactions from the men who attended this event, it’s fascinating to hear so much interest in these unique items.’
   She added, ‘Our aim is to create a whole Hello Kitty Men world, incorporating not just fashion but art and various other fields.’
   Hello Kitty won a Medinge Group Brands with a Conscience award in 2003 for its communication principles. ‘The guiding principle behind this Japanese company, founded by Shintaro Tsuji, is expressed in compassionate interpersonal communication,’ said the think-tank.

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