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A first glance at New Zealand Fashion Week


September 23, 2010/5.42

Photographed by Michael Ng
Michael Ng

Above Sabatini returned in force for its autumn–winter 2011 show at New Zealand Fashion Week. (All photographs by Michael Ng.)

Made for walking
Kathryn Wilson launched her autumn–winter collection to a packed crowd. Glamazonian models stalked the runway in Wilson’s creations as part of the first shoe show at this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week.
   Orange, mustards, animal and combat print combined to create a unique show of footwear. There was everything from thigh-high boots, suede fringed wedges, desert boots and booties to satisfy every shoe fiend.
   Friend and jewellery designer Boh Runga created specially crafted pieces of footwear jewellery for the collection.

Photographed by Michael NgNeon jungle
The story of a girl going into the big smoke of the urban jungle mixed with ’80s-referenced neon colours inspired Andrea Moore’s autumn–winter 2011 collection.
   There was beautiful tailoring as always: tailored suiting and jackets featured heavily in camels, taupe, grey and blue, and were cinched in with military belts.
   Dresses came floaty and structured with asymmetrical necklines and ruffles, plain and spotted.

Photographed by Michael NgJimmy D
Jimmy D returned to the catwalk this season with a highly anticipated show and he did not disappoint.
   Entitled Until the Light Takes Us, the collection was tongue-in-cheek Jimmy D. Dark brooding Gothic punk sensibilities were mixed with sportswear and bondage.
   Billowy, oversized and draping are still there, but this season it was more refined, with harness bondage-like strapping. Body-con panelled dress and ’80s sportwear references such as bum flaps, racer backs and low-armhole singlets were all redefined for a new generation.
   Collaboration with digital artist, painter, illustrator and print-maker Andrew McLeod also saw Norwegian black metal album art become prints on light-as-a-feather singlets and Ts.
   Meadowlark provided jewellery for the collection, creating bespoke thorns in silver and rubber, and skeletal-like T-shirts and singlets in silver chains which were layered over diaphanous silks.

Photographed by Michael NgThe Adventures of Ruby
Ruby’s début collection recalled girl guides and followed the spirit of the adventurer who then travelled to the mod ’60s.
   Checked shirts, shorts and dresss, puffy jackets, parkas and coats in a colour palette of forest green ochre, berry, brooding navy, mushroom and crisp blues were worn with desert boots. Salt ’n’ pepper socks reminded us of tramping in the hills.
   The Adventure takes a turn and heads to the ’60s where electric neon orange, metallic gold and patent leather featured. Waist-hugging tunics and skinny cigarette pants were paired with shaggy and chunky knits.
   A well executed and edited show for a début—it left you wanting more!

Photographed by Michael NgBrady: Haiku
Theresa Brady of Sable & Minx fame showcased her new brand Brady, a collection designed to be more fashion focused, cutting-edge and directional.
   The début collection, entitled Haiku, is inspired by Japonism. It featured bias-cut silks, fine knitted merinos and jerseys, skimming and flattering the body. Cascading ripples and cowl necks added to the overall softness and zen of the collection.
   Hues of khaki, navy blue, camel, chocolate and grey featured dominantly in the gorgeous début collection.

Photographed by Michael NgSable & Minx
Sable & Minx showed us what it does best: great feminine, classic pieces but with a twist.
   Draped and gathered dresses featured in silks and fine merinos. Printed or plain, they were equally divine.
   Panelling, ruching and pleats in jackets and on the shoulders of dresses gave movement and texture to the collection, while the abstract pebble print was a crowd-pleaser.
   Sea blue, inky black, moss green, dusky mauve and scarlet featured in a concise and well executed show.

Sabatini returned to the show season this year after a hiatus and showed what they are well loved and known for: great knitwear!
   The Artist and the Muse was inspired the love of films and high drama, resulting in a noir ’40s-inspired collection.
   Beautiful tailored jackets nipped in at the waist and coats were showcased. Some were fringed and tasselled; others had contrasting button holes and buttons. Peplum detailing and Sabatini’s signature zig-zag pattern also featured throughout the collection.
   Metallic gold, taupe, jet black, mauve and teal were the key colours for the collection.
   The show-stopper came at the end of the section when a gold-and-black-striped ball gown came down the runway, summing up everything about the collection: clothes for starlets and those that want to play the part. Go on and dress the part and become someone’s muse!

Photographed by Michael NgAugustine
The 4 a.m. Fairy was Augustine at its best.
   A rainbow palette of scarlet red, sunset orange, bright fuchsia, midnight blue and gold was used along with signature beading. There were sparkly, ethnic tribal and heavy metal studs.
   Sharp masculine tailoring and riding jackets were juxtaposed with flowing silks, ruffles and tulle.
   ’Eighties-inspired shoulders and asymmetrical dresses were gathered and ruched into mini-dresses you could dance the night away in.
   Prints were vivid and bright; abstract rippling water or butterflies so real you’d think they were alive. This is a collection that celebrates all things fun, feminine, flirty and girly.

Nicole Miller’s urban jungle
Nicole Miller shows New Zealanders how it is done in New York.
   Slick urban jungle glamazonian models stalked the runway in a monochromatic colour palette of grey, black and white in pieces written in signature Miller.
   There was the couture beading of chains on silk Ts, sequins shredded and plaited, Alia-like body-con dresses with corset structuring and lacing.
   A decaying dripping skull was bedazzled in sequins and paired with draped singlets and vests. Skintight legging in leather and knitted jersey were appliquéd with zips and contrasting wool.
   Embellishments aplenty and everything from billowing silk, rough wool, and leather added to the urban jungle feel.—Sopheak Seng

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Filed by Sopheak Seng

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