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September 1, 2011

New Zealand Fashion Week: rocking the runway, day 2

Sopheak Seng/0.47

Stolen Girlfriends
The eternally cool kids at Stolen Girlfriends know how to put on a show. The masters of spectacle this year had the fashionistas waiting out in the cold and rain for the beginning of their show with not a grumble in ear shot—a hard achievement by no mean feat. The revving of the Mini Cooper and blaring music gave way to a concrete runway with portaloos! And out came the boys of Stolen, modelling the menswear line from Stolen Girlfriends (as featured in Lucire last week). Leopard print fur pants and hoodies were a cheeky nod of classic Stolen Girlfriends’ humour while plaids in red and black were executed in bushman shirts, jackets and pants. All the menswear pieces were well cut and stayed true to the brand’s ethos.
   Inside, however, was a different story: ’80s bridesmaids walked the runway to the opening bars of Madonna’s ‘Like a Prayer’ to reveal body con and baby doll dresses in a colour palette of teal green, black and ecru. The collection for women also featured beautiful heavily printed silk trousers, dresses and shirting, all cut in flattering lines for the female figure. Leather shorts and skirts were also given the edgy treatment with corset-like lacing up the sides and for the fashion adventurous, their leather short lederhosen prove an edgy option. Faux fur yeti-like proportions in a hooded jacket and three-quarter-length jacket closed the show, the full experience well worth the wait.

Lonely Hearts
Lonely Hearts’ return to NZFW exceeded expectations, if the packed-out tent and the scramble for prime position to view the collection was any indication of the hype. A more refined and deft hand was evident this season, showcasing sport-luxe at its best. Stripes of maroon, navy and mustard appeared in a racer back, box pleated dress while grey marle jersey came in easy-to-wear trousers, both items perfect for sporting on and off the sports field. Tennis skirts came in sheer silks crafted in cerulean blue and slate greys and naturally came with matching blouses.
   The stand-out of the collection, however, was the ox blood-red lamb’s wool jacket paired with the burgundy maxi. The lingerie collection was also a key element this season with pieces available in beautiful laces and matching colour palettes of burgundy, navy, slate, black and white. Most ensembles came with almost bondage-like strapping while flatteringly cut knickers proved a must have come winter. Simple and stylish clothing was topped off with the ever-cool baseball cap. Take us out to the ball game, Lonely Hearts.

Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson
Lonely Hearts photographed by Lisa Wilson

Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography

Jimmy D
It was most definitively A Kind of Magick at James Dobson’s Jimmy D show. Where last winter Jimmy D was all about black metal, this season, she has grown up and fallen in with a futuristic warrior clan. Signature black and white were evident throughout the collection with layers of gossamer silks contrasting well with knit cotton jerseys and wool. The use of crimson red injected into the mix made the collection more feminine and romantic whilst retaining the Jimmy D DNA of hard glamour—this new twist made us excited for the upcoming winter.
   For this season, Dobson has collaborated with local artist Andrew McLeod to render his Silk Road digital collages into an all-over digital print on silk georgette. This winter also saw the inclusion of some male models on the Jimmy D runway.
   Speaking to Dobson after the show, he said he felt the timing was right to have guys on the runway since he often wears some of his pieces in a more masculine way. The inclusion of males on the runway was the correct move: it added something fresh and dynamic to the show. With the harness and studded body jewellery courtesy of Meadowlark, Dobson is on to a good thing.

Jimmy D
Jimmy D
Jimmy D
Jimmy D
Jimmy D
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

CĂ©line Rita
A sinister and creepy twist to the Addicted to Love homage of ’90s culture was the vibe present during CĂ©line Rita’s dĂ©but solo show. Taking cues from style icons Cindy, Linda and Kate, members of the supers, CĂ©line has provided garments that hark back to the glory days of those early fashion moments. Velvet, lace, floor-length knit skirts and body con were all present, but with a more earthy softer touch. Elements of witchcraft and the supernatural prevailed: these dark references seem to be a growing trend on the runway as this is the second show to date to have used this as a reference point. Powder blues, blood red and ink black sat against soft taupes, creams and teals. Unashamedly girly and feminine and true to the CĂ©line Rita brand, this collection will have you recalling fond memories of the not so distant past.

Celine Rita
Celine Rita
Celine Rita
Celine Rita
Celine Rita
Celine Rita
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Ruby
Ruby’s winter 2012 took us all to the big smoke and the concrete jungle of the future, showing clothes perfect for stalking those cities’ streets while looking fierce. Slate, concrete, moss and petroleum blue were brightened with pops of tangerine, mustard, emerald, rose and teals, the colour combinations effectively bringing together the collection. Abstract Aztec and geometric prints recalled skyscrapers and city grids were a signature influence seen in trousers, skirts and shift style button downs. Shiny metallic treated leathers, fluffy mohair-style knits as well as chunky designs gave the collection texture, the pairings contrasting well against the sleek design lines. Showing the maturity of the label as it has progressed through the years, this year’s collection was commercial and very wearable, sure to be a hit come next winter.

Ruby
Ruby
Ruby
Ruby
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Liam
For its dĂ©but showcase, Liam did not disappoint. The new sub-brand from Ruby still maintains very much the essence of its parent brand but does so with a more sophisticated edge. Designer Emily Miller-Sharma has looked into the world of ceremonial dress and the way that clothes are used as signifying symbols as inspiration for the coming season. With a subtle colour palette of ecru, navy, gold and grey, the simple and subtle design lines showcase the perfect working wardrobe. But don’t be fooled. Pops of tangerine, scarlet, cerulean blue and teal added zest for the coming winter.
   Stand-outs from the collection would have to be the beautiful floor length dress with cowl back detailing complete with pretty bows on the side and the divine jacquard floral pants and tuxedo jacket. The specially designed lace, featured in tea length dresses and tops paired perfectly with precisely cut Lurex-treated Bermudas, was also stunning and elegant.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

Liam
Liam
Liam
Liam
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

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