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Catching our eye: stand-outs at the 2017 ID Emerging Designer Awards


NEWS  by Chris Park/March 26, 2017/11.52

Thirty finalists were selected to showcase their capsule collections at the 2017 ID Emerging Designer Awards’ runway show. Hosted on a crisp autumn evening in the iconic Dunedin Railway Station, the finalists were chosen by a panel of judges from over 150 different entrants, with designers coming from all over the world.
   Head judge Tanya Carlson said that, although it might sound cliché and make her sound like a broken record, she truly believes that the standard of the submissions continues to rise and we were fortunate to see some of the talent.
   Here were some of the designers which particularly caught our attention.

Marina, Talia Jimenez, University of Technology, Sydney, NSW
Winner of the Golden Centre Prize for the Most Commercial Collection




Chris Park/The Park Brothers

   First off the runway, the collection featured playful digital prints of overlapping marine animals. Jimenez balanced the vibrant imagery by using mostly pastel colours for the prints and keeping the overall colour palette minimal.
   The collection was inspired by a trip to the Sydney Fish Markets in Piermont, where she experienced an overwhelming cacophony of marine-themed advertisements, overfilled crates of prawns, and mud crabs tied up in string everywhere.
   The prints were featured on PVC overalls faced with cotton worn with merino turtleneck knits, and oversized raincoats, referencing clothing traditionally worn by fishermen. The prints might be fun but the imposition of the prints on top of “fishermen” alludes to the over-exploitation of the marine ecosystem, and our excess indulgence in the spoils of the sea.




Chris Park/The Park Brothers

Above: Close-ups from Talia Jimenez’s Marina collection.

The Daily Show, Megan Stewart, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand
NZME and ‘Viva’ Editorial Prize for Best New Zealand Collection







Chris Park/The Park Brothers

   This collection is a sharp critique on the distortionary effect that electronic communication and mass media have on our perception of reality. The distortionary effect is expressed in a very literal sense by the use of distorted imagery from television shows and twisted knits.
   She references digital media and the pixels of a screen by incorporating 90-degree angles and rectangles in her patterns, which further add to the warping when the square clothing twists around the human form.
   The television imagery was selected and distorted by Stewart herself, before being printed onto hessian-like material. The shoulder construction hangs by the elbows, adding to the warping effect on our perception of the clothing.
   The bright playful colours and mesmerizing patterns belie the warning messages that Stewart transmits to the viewer, of how being absorbed into media will warp one’s perception of reality.

XXX, Nehma Vitols, University of Technology, Sydney, NSW
H&J First Prize








Chris Park/The Park Brothers

   Vitols’s collection was ethereal. The pieces looked like they were hovering in front and behind the models rather than being worn by them, and yet it the composite fabric used by Vitols that gave it a stiffness belying the translucency of the wraith-like materials.
   Nehma created this material by taking silk organza and bonding it with stiff cotton organdy, then applying laser-cut Tyvek detailing in white to add visual depth. As the models walked down the runway, the fabric would shimmer and float, as if it had a mind of its own.
   The pieces were cleverly constructed from scraps of fabric left over from creating archetypal garments, held together using a combination of ties made out of leftover strips of fabric, contrast top-stitching and golden zips, which provided some weight and textural contrast to the sheer fabric.
   The complexity of the construction, the innovative materials and the brilliant execution led to Vitols taking out the grand prize at ID for 2017. Congratulations!—Chris Park, Special Correspondent




Chris Park/The Park Brothers

Above: Detail from Nehma Vitols’s collection, XXX, which took first prize at the ID Emerging Designer Awards.

H&M: more Conscious Exclusive details and images featuring Natalia Vodianova, plus first peek at childrenswear


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 24, 2017/17.33

Hennes & Mauritz has released further images from the H&M Conscious Exclusive collections, previewed in Lucire in February.
   A plissé dress made of Bionic, a sustainable polyester made from recycled shoreline waste, was part of the preview, but H&M has revealed more about other designs made from the fabric.
   The company has screen-printed distorted peonies and mimosa on to the fabric for ‘dream-like prints’, while an image of a dreaming woman has been quilted into its jacket.
   Designers have also added sequins to a recycled polyester cocktail dress, while a tuxedo comes in organic silk and Tencel twill. There’s a fishnet bag made from shoreline waste, and earrings from recycled glass and plastic.
   Children’s designs also feature for the first time, with tulle dresses and structured blazers and trousers.
   H&M head of design and creative director Pernilla Wohlfahrt said in a release, ‘For this year’s Conscious Exclusive collection at H&M, we thought not only about the look of the pieces, but also how they feel and sound. It’s a collection to please all our senses, and also our desire to be sustainable in everything we do.’
   ‘H&M’s Conscious Exclusive collection shows how the best style can be mindful of the planet, to help protect it for the future. It’s such a desirable collection, with pieces made in sustainable materials that you want to wear for seasons to come,’ added model Natalia Vodianova, who fronts the campaign.
   Vodianova also founded Elbi, a digital philanthropy platform connecting users with a charities worldwide. H&M says it will continue to partner with the platform.
   The collections will go on sale in c. 160 stores worldwide, from April 20.







The Body Shop’s Drops of Youth and Drops of Light liquid peels: effective and perfect for sensitive skin


NEWS  by Nathalia Archila/March 20, 2017/9.42


We’ve been sampling the Body Shop’s new Drops of Youth Youth Liquid Peel and Drops of Light Pure Resurfacing Liquid Peel, coming soon to New Zealand. These products claim to deliver a smoother, healthier, more youthful and lighter skin.
   I tried out both products, and they get Lucire’s thumbs-up. The formula between them both is similar, so you’d choose which one you want based on your preference. Drops of Light features red algæ extract from the North Atlantic and vitamin C. Drops of Youth is 100 per cent vegan, enriched with edelweiss, sea holly and criste marine plant stem cells. The liquid peels help skin appear brighter, refined and more even. At first, I wasn’t sure how they worked, because they are not like a traditional exfoliant scrub. After a bit of research, I found out that a liquid peel essentially takes off the top layer of dead cells from your face. The first thing I noticed when I opened Drops of Youth was the smell: it was nice and clean, and the texture was like a really refreshing cold jelly. I applied the product on my face, massaging for around 20 seconds, and noticed that these little balls of dead skin cells were forming. After I wiped the product off my face, my skin felt amazing, and appeared soft and bright.
   I am really careful with my skin routine and not to keen to introduce new products because I’ve had a very long battle with rosacea and sensitive skin. However, with the Body Shop’s liquid peels I didn’t experience any rosacea outbreaks or reactions, which tells me they are great for those with sensitive skin. I’ve kept using the products two to three times a week and I notice my skin feels much softer and glowing now!—Nathalia Archila

Fragrance du Bois launches sustainably sourced Oud Intense


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 11, 2017/9.11

Here’s an ideal fragrance to go along with Lola Cristall’s favourites in Lucire issue 36. Fragrance du Bois’s latest Oud Intense complements its earlier Nature’s Treasures collection, except this time the parfumerie has gone the opposite direction with a full, undiluted oud experience.
   The spray is far bolder and designed to be a layer on top of other perfumes and scents, though it can be worn on its own.
   Fragrance du Bois’s Oud Intense features oud oil that is sourced ethically and sustainably from its own plantations.
   In keeping with the house’s exclusivity, Oud Intense is available only at its boutique in Genève, and at Jovoy, Paris and Doha, priced at €395, with a 15 ml spray version at €125.

Filed under: beauty, environment, Lucire, Paris

H&M stays positive with unisex denim line, following love-themed Paris catwalk show


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 8, 2017/20.59



Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) has announced a new denim line, Denim United. The difference this time is that it is a truly unisex collection, with identical women’s and men’s designs, with jackets, overalls, shorts, T-shirts and an oversized hoody. The materials and silhouettes are shared between the sexes.
   More sustainable materials have been used, including organic and recycled cotton.
   The collection goes on sale on March 23, online-only at hm.com.
   ‘It is very natural for us to launch a unisex collection as fashion is constantly evolving and intersecting and today we see there are no boundaries in democratic style. Fashion should always be inclusive,’ said Marybeth Schmitt of H&M in a release.
   The announcement follows H&M Studio’s showing of its spring–summer 2017 women’s and men’s collections at the Tennis Club de Paris during Paris Fashion Week, where the designs went on sale at its flagship Fifth Avenue store in New York and online immediately. They went on sale in other stores on March 2.
   Celebrities in attendance in Paris included Nicki Minaj, Olga Kurylenko, Alexa Chung, Lucky Blue Smith, Clémence Poésy and Sasha Lane, while Emily Ratajkowski led the celebrations in New York.
   Models walking in Paris included Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid, Adwoa Aboah, Amber Valletta, Jordan Barrett, Winnie Harlow and Luis Borges. The Weeknd gave a special performance at the Paris show, performing ‘Starboy’, ‘Can’t Feel My Face’ and ‘I Feel It Coming’.
   The collection featured fine knits, loose-fitting shorts, tops, dresses, anoraks and sandals, with ruffle detailing and bold graphics proclaiming ‘Love’.
   ‘With this collection we want to send a global message of love. There are a few pieces that carry the word again and again, kind of like a ticker tape and as a constant reminder of what is important. It feels like now, more than ever, we all need positive feelings and thoughts in our lives,’ said H&M creative director and head of design Pernilla Wohlfahrt.

Paris show

Backstage

The celebrities

The show

The Weeknd

New York event

Margot Robbie shows you can in a Nissan, with BladeGlider electric sports car


NEWS  by Nathalia Archila/February 20, 2017/23.19



Patrick Gosling

Margot Robbie (Focus, The Wolf of Wall Street, Suicide Squad) has become a spokeswoman for Nissan, showing off the Japanese brand’s electric car credentials with its BladeGlider sports car around the streets of Monaco, and into Casino Square.
   The Australian actress tested one of the two BladeGliders on closed roads in the principality, racing against its twin. She drifts around Fairmont Hairpin, and slid sideways around the Massenet corner.
   The petite sports car has a very Japanese appearance with its origami-like folds and detail-rich surfaces, and seats three, with the driver in the central position. It’s not for sale—it’s a prototype that will be unveiled at the Salon de Genève later this year.
   It’s in direct contrast to the bulky Nissan Leaf, the world’s best selling electric vehicle.
   The Renault–Nissan Alliance has invested heavily in electric cars, staking its future on the growth of the sector.
   In a release, Robbie said, ‘It’s a really exciting time for electric vehicles. More people are choosing to go electric, leading the way to a more sustainable future and the Nissan BladeGlider hints at the future of smarter performance cars,’ said Margot Robbie.
   Nissan chose Monaco as it has a sustainability programme that aims to reduce carbon emissions by up to 50 per cent by 2030. ‘We want to inspire people to take small steps towards cleaner, safer cities, and working with Margot is the perfect way to do just that,’ said Gareth Dunsmore, Director of Electric Vehicles for Nissan Europe.
   The advertisement forms part of a campaign, hashtagged #ElectrifytheWorld, to get people talking about sustainability and zero emissions living.—Nathalia Archila and Lucire staff

In tune with good causes and ideas: Red Carpet Events LA’s 2017 Grammy suite


NEWS  by Elyse Glickman/February 11, 2017/22.12




Elyse Glickman

The rainiest, coolest Los Angeles winter in years did not keep music industry talent, executives, or producers away from the SLS Hotel Beverly Hills’ Garden Terrace. In fact, event producer Roger Zamudio of Red Carpet Events LA was all smiles as he personally greeted several invitees into the Style Lounge Gifting Suite in honour of the Grammy Awards 2017. The event itself was quite intimate. La Blanca reintroduced the one-piece swimsuit that put the brand on the map back in the 1980s, while the Frankfurt, Germany-based Lassal previewed its sharp autumn–winter 2017–18 collections in an interactive way—allowing taste-making divas to purchase and wear their pieces on the spot, as well as the red carpet and the stage.
   The primary charitable sponsor, African Millennium Foundation, had two of its young ambassadors, Bibiana and Tindi, on hand to discuss and provide living proof of how the strategic non-profit and non-governmental organization facilitates the social and economic empowerment of the people of Africa, especially women. AMF seeks to target poverty, hunger and disease at its very root by providing African women and children with the necessary tools for achieving self-sufficiency. In 2015, African Millennium Foundation enabled Bibiana and Tindi to travel to Los Angeles, where Bibiana received a new, state-of-the-art prosthetic leg (in the wake of an attack) and the sisters received tutoring that would enable them to enter school full-time. In their spare time, the sisters travelled around the United States sharing their story to bring awareness about attacks on people with albinism in their native Tanzania.
   Other positive presences at the suite included Earth Mom, a non-profit that encourages celebrities, small companies, and manufacturers to harness the power of their customer or client base and social media channels to share information on environmental causes, ethically made products, and newly instituted eco-friendly policies that change the way they do business. Placement of the logo by a company not only ensures consumers that a product is ethically and environmentally sound, but they have committed to better business practices.
   Representatives of Dr Dain Heer were also on hand to distribute copies of his book, Being You, Changing the World, which also appears to be a rallying cry for people feeling out of place in a culture that (in the wake of the US election) leaves many people feeling isolated or disenfranchised. It suggests that individuals can be the proverbial change they want to see in the world by not only “owning” what makes them different, but shifting negative thoughts into problem-solving ideas.
   Hair industry favourite Denman released a snazzy line of Anarkitty brushes. While the designs created by Northern Irish artist Anarkitty brighten up the perfect everyday brush, there’s a lot of history behind it. The designs are also a tribute to the legendary Vidal Sassoon whose signature asymmetrical bob and Rococo swirl cuts adorn the girls on the brushes.
   Korean-made, US-based beauty brand Cailyn was also front-and-centre with its ‘one-day game changer’ vitamin C-enriched V11 serum and Double Dare OMG! masks for hair and face. The serum gift boxes flew off the display with its nutrient-based mix of rosehip, green tea, pinus pinaster, letinus edodes mushroom, and 11 per cent vitamin C composition—even with a predominately male VIP crowd.
   New Jersey-based company Mellisa B not only showcased its affordable eponymous daily skin care but also its new Keep Your Ink Naturally line, designed for those with body art. Needless to say, Mellisa and husband Ray had a lot of interested customers among the guests. Parfaire Medical Æsthetics in Pasadena found some good candidates for their beauty and wellness services as well.—Elyse Glickman, US West Coast Editor









Elyse Glickman

Natalia Vodianova fronts H&M’s Conscious Exclusive campaign in a gown made from recycled polyester


NEWS  by Nathalia Archila/February 8, 2017/23.11



Natalia Vodianova stars in H&M’s Conscious Exclusive campaign, highlighting the brand’s use of Bionic, a recycled polyester made from recovered shoreline waste.
   H&M Conscious is the Swedish retailer’s sustainable, socially responsible collection, with the Exclusives going a step further with limited-edition designs and, usually, a high-profile spokesmodel.
   The key design this season is an ethereal plissé pleat gown in powder pink in Bionic.
   H&M, which had been named as one of Medinge Group’s Brands with a Conscience in 2008, has been increasing its use of sustainable materials, now reaching 20 per cent. It is now one of the world’s biggest users of recycled polyester and one of the biggest buyers of organic cotton.
   H&M Conscious Exclusive shows that style and sustainability can go together.
   ‘I am proud to appear in the H&M Conscious Exclusive campaign. It’s amazing to see the advances in sustainable fabrics that are used in the collection, pointing towards a more sustainable future for all fashion,’ said Vodianova.
   ‘For the design team at H&M, this year’s Conscious Exclusive is a chance to dream and create pieces that are both quirky and beautiful. It’s great to be able to show just what is possible with sustainable materials like we have done with the delicate plissé dress made of Bionic,’ said Pernilla Wohlfahrt, H&M’s head of design and creative director.
   The 2017 collection will also include children’s pieces. The collection will go on sale in c. 160 stores worldwide, from April 20.—Nathalia Archila





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