Above, from top Among Kate Barry’s work were these portraits of Carla Bruni (for Elle) and Sophie Marceau.
Fashion photographer Kate Barry, 46, has been found dead outside her 16th arrondissement apartment in Paris, according to French police.
Barry, who was the daughter of the late film composer John Barry and actress Jane Birkin, was found Wednesday at 6.30 p.m. Police gave no further details and did not give a cause of death.
One source informs Lucire that Barry took her own life, and a British tabloid is also speculating that it was suicide.
Barry’s work was the subject of numerous photographic exhibitions since 2000, and her work had been published in leading publications internationally, including British Vogue, Elle and SZ Magazin. Among her subjects were the former French First Lady, Carla Bruni, actresses Sophie Marceau and Isabelle Huppert, and model Laetitia Casta.
Barry had been raised by her mother and the actor Serge Gainsbourg, with whom Birkin had a 13-year relationship after her marriage to John Barry ended. Gainsbourg had raised Kate as his own daughter.
She is survived by a son, Roman de Kermadec, 26. Barry’s half-sister is the actress Charlotte Gainsbourg.
Suzy Menkes, OBE will receive the British Fashion Council’s (BFC) Special Recognition Award this year, for her 25-year-long career at the International HeraldâTribune.
Menkes has been style editor for the newspaper, now rebranded as the International New York Times, since 1988, and is hugely respected by her peers and the fashion industry.
British-born, she is a graduate of Cambridge University, where she read English literature. Menkes was the university newspaper’s first female editor. Her official biography notes that she previously worked for The Times, the London Evening Standard, and The Independent.
As style editor, Menkes resides in Paris and holds the Legion d’Honneur in France. She has authored a number of books on fashion and the Royal Family.
In the BFC’s release, the industry praised Menkes, who tends to have a warm relationship with the industry, known for her fairness and journalistic integrity. Stephen Jones, OBE, whom Lucire publisher Jack Yan interviewed in issue 31, said, ‘Suzy is fashion. Suzy is the bench mark by which all others are judged. Few come close in authority, experience, judgement and hairdo.’
Chris Moore of Catwalking.com noted, ‘To say Suzy Menkes is to say fashion. It’s an honour to have worked for her to 25 years.’
Sarah Mower, BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent and a contributing editor to Vogue, said, ‘Suzy is the fastest mover in the westâor east. I have only ever beaten her to the race backstage about three times in 15 years. The brain under that front-roll is a phenomenon. I’m in awe of the agenda-setting pieces she pens between Milan and Paris which both interrogate fashion’s motives and put it in its rightful cultural and economic place. Besides that, she’s the greatest defender of journalistic integrity, the greatest inspiration and the naughtiest wit I know.’
Simone Rocha said, ‘It is an honour to be reviewed by Suzy, her words are always astute and sincere. She has a true understanding of the beauty of fashion and her words make you believe in it.’
Susannah Frankel, fashion director at Grazia stated, ‘There are so many people reviewing fashion today but Suzy is still the person who, for me, best brings the clothes themselves to life. She is, of course, also brilliant at putting fashion into a broader cultural context but, if I miss a show, and read her commentary it’s almost as if I can see the collection in front of me. She makes that seem easy but it’s anything but. Add to that the fact that she is as sharp as a knife, as generous towards and interested in newcomers as she the big guns âŠ Suzy is an incredible journalist and an incredible woman.’
The British Fashion Awards, hosted by the BFC, takes place on December 2 at the London Coliseum. Nominees this year include Marc Jacobs, Anya Hindmarch, Victoria Beckham, Mary Katrantzou, Raf Simons, Nicholas Kirkwood and Cara Delevingne. Tickets are available through www.britishfashionawards.com/tickets.
Above As shown on Facebook yesterday, a banner ad campaign has launched promoting the print and tablet editions of Lucire, even though issue 31 has been published for some weeks.
If you havenât checked it out already, you should do so: Lucire issue 31 is out. Since the print editions are collectible, limited editions, they donât really dateâwe still keep going back to earlier ones at the office as referencesâand have in-depth insights into the fashion world. Intelligently written, with an independent voice, and put together by a small global team, Lucire continues to pioneer as we hit the mid-2010s. That’s why you can also order it as a tablet edition. The latest issue features Summer Rayne Oakes on making an impact in the modelling world; a review of autumnâwinter looks by Tiffany Fernando, with visuals by Doug Rimington; an interview with Stephen Jones, OBE, one of the great names in millinery, by Jack Yan; Elina Lukasâs Copenhagen Fashion Week diary; Elyse Glickmanâs interview with Daisy Fuentes; and David Machowskiâs exploration of maple syruping in New England. Thereâs plenty more, including shoots by Angelika Buettner, Dorit Thies, Brett Stanley and Doug Rimington, including two styled by Lucire fashion editor Sopheak Seng.
The URL is now much easier to remember: lucire.com/print. You can order it for tablets or as a very exclusive print edition through this link, or at the link at the top of the page if you’re surfing on our full web edition.
Also easy to remember is our video player, regularly updated with entertainment, fashion, beauty and lifestyle news and tips. You can find that at lucire.tv: weâre finally putting that URL to the use we envisaged for it.
As we begin December, Lucire is getting our bases covered. Please let us know via Facebook or our feedback form if you have any thoughts or story ideas. Itâs the tip of the iceberg, as we have plenty more to announce in the New Year.
The exhibition, Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!, opens today at Somerset House, London.
This marks the second time Lucire has covered an exhibition connected to the late editor and fashion patron. The earlier occasion, in 2008, saw curator Donna Loveday of the Design Museum look at Philip Treacy’s hats, and focused on the then Isabella Delves Broughton’s discovery of the designer. This second exhibition, with over 100 pieces, looks at Blow’s collection itself: it is her wardrobe, acquired by her friend Daphne Guinness, to stop it being sold at auction. Architectural firm Carmody Groarke designed the exhibition.
Guinness said, ‘This exhibition is, to me, a bittersweet event. Isabella Blow made our world more vivid, trailing colour with every pace she took. It is a sorrier place for her absence. When I visited her beloved clothes in a storage room in South Kensington, it seemed quite clear the collection would be of immense value to a great many people. I do believe that in choosing to exhibit them weâve done the right thingâand that it is what she would have wanted. I am doing this in memory of a dear friend, in the hope that her legacy may continue to aid and inspire generations of designers to come.’
After Blow’s suicide in 2007, Guinness, who had been friends with her for nearly a decade, sought to preserve her legacy and established the Isabella Blow Foundation.
Many of the garments shown are styled in exactly the way Blow wore them. She was known to only wear work from designers she liked or admired.
A catalogue will be published by Rizzoli to accompany the exhibition, edited by Alistair O’Neil, who curated the exhibition with Shonagh Marshall, with essays by O’Neil, Marshall, Prof Caroline Evans, and Alexander Fury, with new photography by Nick Knight. Graphic Thought Facility has designed the book, which is priced at ÂŁ40.
Blow began her career in the early 1980s as Anna Wintour’s assistant at Vogue. After she returned to London in 1986, she worked at Tatler, British Vogue, and The Sunday Timesâ ‘Style’. In addition to Treacy, whom she discovered at his graduation from Central St Martin’s in 1990, Blow is also credited for discovering Alexander McQueen (at his graduation from the school two years later), Hussein Chalayan, Julien Macdonald, Sophie Dahl and Stella Tennant. She collaborated with photographers Steven Meisel, David LaChapelle and Sean Ellis.
The exhibition includes pieces from the designers she discovered, and is regarded as one of the most important private fashion collections of the era.
Film, recordings and projections at Somerset House take visitors back to the era, while miscellaneous items belonging to Blow, such as her Rolodex, are also on display.
Somerset House presents the exhibition in association with the Isabella Blow Foundation and Central St Martin’s. It runs from November 20, 2013 to March 2, 2014, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, with a late night of 9 p.m. on Thursday. Some special hours apply over the Christmas and New Year period. Entry is ÂŁ12Â·50, and concessions are ÂŁ10 and ÂŁ6Â·25 on Mondays.
The video below looks back at Blow’s life, and includes Alexander McQueen’s La Dame Bleue collection from springâsummer 2008, which he dedicated to his mentor.
While some designers strive to create an ideal vision of the perfect female customer, others choose to let their customer use fashion to define their own definition of perfection. Annah Stretton, now easing her way into to the US and other countries’ markets via her jaunty online boutiques, fits the second category and does it with the flair of one of her famously fitted jackets. I discovered this on my 2010 visit to Wellington when in town to cover the Cocktail World Cup (of 42 Below vodka notoriety).
Soon after I purchased my first Annah-designed investment-piece jacket (which still turns fashionista heads here in LA three years on), Lucire publisher Jack Yan filled me in on her other accomplishments in publishing and public speaking. In 2013, she succeeded in getting my attention again, and not just because of all of the curve flattering frocks and expanded number of shops. Shortly after I arrived in Wellington, on the heels of covering the Food and Wine Classic (FAWK) in Hawke’s Bay, a cartoon incarnation of Annah peeked up at me from one of the stacks at the Lucire offices. Rock the Boat (her third effort), content-wise, is focused on a core readership of success-driven New Zealand women. The business leaders and movers-and-shakers, therefore, will be more recognizable to that group. However, from the perspective of an outsider (an American woman) looking in, this book is still a fun read with a lot of very positive messages and life lessons. Although it is obvious why she’s billed as the New Zealand answer to Oprah, one has to appreciate that she’s made sure her own larger-than-life persona does not overshadow the input and impact made by her “guest stars” (including the equally vibrant Cuisine publisher Ray McVinnie, who MCed several FAWK events, as well as World of Wearable Art founder Dame Suzie Moncrieff, and Saatchi & Saatchi CEO Kevin Roberts). This, in turn, turns readers not familiar with New Zealand personality, culture and industry to read on, learn and be genuinely inspired.
From a design standpoint, Rock the Boat, like her springâsummer 2013â14 collection of frocks, tempts a reader to pick it up and try some things on for size. Though ĂŠsthetically some of this year’s dresses and this year’s book chapters may be a little too busy visually, other visually appealing chapters will fit and feel just right for an individual reader. Then again, that’s the beauty of the new generation of eclectic, self-help and motivational books aiming for a wide readership. Not every idea or message will be a fit, but chances are if you shop aroundâespecially on this Stretton-led cruiseâyou will get some divine inspiration when charting your own course.âElyse Glickman, US West Coast Editor
Bunteâs annual New Faces Award Fashion during DĂŒsseldorf Fashion Week has seen some very deserving winners in fashion, accessories and shoes.
In the Best Fashion Label category, Achtland, a Berlin label by Oliver LĂŒhr and Thomas Bentz, took the honours. They were awarded red panther statuettes and prize money of âŹ10,000.
Tom Zauke won in the Best Accessories Label category. Marion Henry, on the jury, said, ‘The pieces by Tom Zauke are very reminiscent of works of art. They are both visionary and sustainable.’
Best Shoe Design went to Joachim van Kann for his innovative shoe designs, and took home a cash prize of âŹ5,000.
The jury also included Eickhoff owner Susanne Asbrand-Eickhoff, Fashion Net DĂŒsseldorf’s Wolfgang Johannes Hein and Bunte editor-in-chief Patricia Riekel.
Furniture company Kare Design partnered with Bunte. Kare created a space in an Ibiza style, furnished with floor cushions, benches and lanterns, at which Bunte honoured the best up-and-coming designers.
Celebrities and guests attending included Kriemhild Siegel, Alexandra Polzin, Julia SchĂ¶nhofen, Olivia SchĂ¶nhofen, Nazan Eckes, Martin Obermeyr, Manuel Cortez, Frauke Ludowig, Guido Maria Kretschmer, Kena Amoa, Kai Ebel and Milla Wiegand, Thomas Rath, Sandro Rath, Jasmin Schwiers, Thomas Hayo and Jorge Gonzalez, Luca Gadjus, Aleksandra Bechtel, Franziska Knuppe, and Liz Baffoe.
DĂŒsseldorf Fashion Week sees some 1,000 guests, including celebrities, and was considered by Kare to be an opportunity to show its trend-setting style. Bunte holds the awards annually.