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December 11, 2014

Unbridled creativity at Raffles College of Design’s Perspective graduate show

Lucire staff/13.36

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The 2014 graduate show from the Raffles College of Design and Commerce, titled Perspective, took place in the big top of the iconic Luna Park in Sydney on December 9.
   The location could not have been more idyllic, and the weather, which has been very stormy of late, held, allowing all guests and designers to make their way to the show.
   It is almost impossible to make comment about all 30 graduates but having an eye for trend, I can say that there was a yearning felt through a sizeable portion of the work presented to embrace all things Mother Nature, in all her textures and colours: escapism, easier living, freedom and expressionism. There were 30 capsule collections consisting of six looks each.
   The show was opened by Queency Yustiawan, inspired by the work of Russian painter Kazimir Malevich. A dramatic black-and-white dress coat was the pièce de résistance and reminded me of a bicolour paper plane. I was impressed with the tailoring of the piece.

Below Queency Yustiawan.


   Good tailoring has been spotted across much of the collections showed, which speaks volumes about the college they are graduating from. What I thought was a dying skill, cherished by very few nowadays, has hope.
   My total stand-out was the capsule by Ashleigh Kwong, which displayed pared-back elegance, fresh and interesting prints and shapes, and wearability. There was a little white trapeze dress with a blue print that I would happily wear any time.

Below The stand-out for Lucire’s Viviana Pannell was the capsule collection by Ashleigh Kwong.


   In the glamour department, Shannon Gambino was a shining star, and so was Tiana Ha Phuong Thao Van, with her royal blue obsession. Her inspiration reminded me slightly of Toni Maticevski and my favourite piece was a little single-shoulder cocktail dress featuring delicate, layered ruffles. Also notable in this department was Lily Purkiss, who presented a capsule of delicate sheers covering shorter layers: utter purity and elegance. Hailing all the way from Italy, Daniela Monica Da Rui presented a capsule inspired by German expressionism, femmes fatales and film noir. She captured her brief very well as one of the pieces, an elegant black dress appliquéd with sculptural black twigs, made me think of a fairy tale with the iconic Marlene Dietrich playing the lead. Christine Milanja, with her elegant and demurely sexy capsule, also deserves a mention.

Below Shannon Gambino.


Below A royal blue obsession from Tiana Ha Phuong Thao Van.
Below Lily Purkiss.
Below Italian designer, Daniela Monica da Rui.
Below Christine Milanja.
   High on wearability were Molly Ya Jung Wu with her pared-down capsule exhibiting very interesting cuts. Rishella Lisha Liang presented a capsule of more wearable menswear and resort-like womenswear featuring appliqués.
   The best menswear, to my mind, was presented by Noal Yam Gurung. Xtra Senquan Ruan presented an interesting combination of interlocking shapes and draping.

Below Molly Ya Jung Wu.


Below Rishella Lisha Liang, featuring wearable menswear.
Below Noal Yam Gurung created the best menswear of the show.
Below Xtra Senquan Ruan.
   It was a beautiful show and I expect to see much more from these graduates. I just love to see unbridled creativity not yet contaminated by commercial realities and the utter need to push prices down in today’s world. Good things are worth paying a nice sum for and are treasured forever. Some of what I saw could be produced and placed into stores tomorrow.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, tendances, trend
December 10, 2014

News in brief: Chanel’s Paris–Salzburg collection; Lady Gaga, Eva Longoria in NYC; Anja Rubik launches perfume

Lucire staff/10.59

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Karl Lagerfeld has unveiled the 13th Chanel Métiers d’Art collection in Salzburg, Austria, recognizing its historical connection with Gabrielle Chanel (she got the inspiration for the Chanel jacket there, at the Hotel Schloss Mittersill, then owned by Baron Hubert von Pantz, with whom she had a fling). Lagerfeld discusses his collection in the video clip below, which showcases the Paris–Salzburg collection, featuring Cara Delevingne, who not only closed the show, but is the face of the collection itself.
   The presentation, at the Leopoldskron château, showcased the fine work of the feather-workers, milliners, tuckers and bootmakers. Lagerfeld took inspiration from traditional Austrian clothing, revisiting the dirndls and lederhosen, using loden, tweed, felt, leather and satin cashmere mix, taffeta and lace. Evening dresses featured pin-tucked fronts, frills, pleats and voluminous sleeves.
   ‘You can take inspiration from the apron, from the sleeves, from all the little details, but you have to forget it all and we do it in a new way,’ said Lagerfeld. ‘The star of Salzburg is about the jacket, but what I like is the craftsmanship, the embroidery with all the feathers. There is an unbelievable craftsmanship in all those clothes: most of the embroidery includes stones and many feathers, it’s like fur, it’s like flying fur. If you look at them closely, it’s quite unbelievable; when you see them or you touch them. So I tried, with beautiful fake pearls, to make interesting pearl jewellery that looks like embroidery. It’s the updated version of what I think it should be, could be, and had to be today.’
   In New York celebrity sightings, Lady Gaga has been spotted wearing the Blake wide-brim hat in oyster felt with pearl trim from Eugenia Kim’s fall 2014 collection last week, while Eva Longoria wore a Ralph & Russo spring–summer 2014 white silk crêpe cap sleeve embellished jacket with structured peplum, pencil skirt and black alligator belt to the ninth annual L’Oréal Women of Worth event.
   L’Oréal Paris notes that Longoria’s look uses True Match liquid foundation in C2 Rose Vanilla, the Volume Million Lashes Excess in Extra Black, Color Riche Le Kajal in 501 Oriental Black, the Super Liner Brow Artist Plumper in medium to dark, and the Elnett Volume Excess hairspray. Blake Lively, very much this year’s L’Oréal Paris celebrity with all the attention she garnered at Cannes, was also at Women of Worth, her look accomplished with True Match in N3 Creamy Beige, the Glam Bronze Powder Duo in 101 Blonde, the Flash Lash Butterfly in Intenza, Txt Wave Creating Spray, and the Nude Rose Color Riche La Palette.

   Polish model Anja Rubik, 31, meanwhile, has released her new perfume, Original. At Colette in Paris, she discusses some of her beauty tips from her career, including using eyelash curlers and moisturizing your skin. Rubik also reveals that Brigitte Bardot is her ‘ultimate beauty’, and rates Charlotte Gainsbourg and Patty Smyth highly.
   The perfume scents are those that have followed her over the years, namely white lilies and green tea, while the black-and-white imagery was inspired by her love of black-and-white photography and the work of Robert Mapplethorpe.
   Carrera y Carrera is going from strength to strength: the Madrid-based luxury jewellery brand has opened a boutique in Macau, as a first beach-head into China. Manuel Carrera, a fourth-generation descendant of the Carrera family who founded the brand, was on hand with CEO Svetlana Kupriyanova.
   Finally, in the main part of our site, travel editor Stanley Moss fits museums and great food into 48 hours in Torino, while publisher Jack Yan tests the BMW X1 Sdrive18d—readers might like the title.


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December 8, 2014

Sponsored video: Airbnb gives you a home, not a space

Lucire staff/14.19

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A Lucire special promotion


While Lucire has traditionally talked about flash accommodation at luxury resorts, there is a whole market that many now prefer: short-term living quarters where everyday people can be a host to travellers, bridging the gap between Couchsurfing and a hotel.
   Started in 2007 by Brian Chesky and Joe Gebbia, offering their own loft up for those attending the Industrial Design Conference that year. They turned their living room into a guest room, with three air mattresses, and gave a homemade breakfast. The site, Airbedandbreakfast.com, launched the following year after a third founder, Nathan Blecharczyk, joined Chesky and Gebbia. The name was later shortened to Airbnb.com.
   Now with 800,000 listings in 33,000 cities and 192 countries, Airbnb has reached a level of maturity, and débuted a new identity and tagline earlier this year. ‘Belong Anywhere’ reiterates what Airbnb is all about. As Chesky puts it, their first guests in 2007 ‘learned our favourite places to grab coffee, ate the best tacos in the city, and had friends to hang out with whenever they wanted. They were thousands of miles from where they lived, and yet they felt right at home.’ A house, he says, is just a space, but ‘a home is where you belong.’ The rewards to staying with an Airbnb property are personal, not financial, because people can connect, rather than have the bland experience of some of the mass-market spaces.
   They’ve even gone so far as to allow people to make their own Airbnb logos, provided they roughly follow the official symbol, and like all of the best ones, it’s remarkably easy to draw and identify. A revamped website and a new commercial have come as part of the rebrand, the latter showcasing the variety of places that a typical Airbnb customer might find on the website. Littered cleverly through the animated ad are Airbnb logos and, being an internationally targeted spot, all manner of homes and locations are suggested, from châteaux to beach bungalows.
   Chesky notes that since he co-founded the business, he has been invited to the wedding of one of his guests. One host who was trapped in his house during the 2011 London riots was fine—as seven of his former guests went to see if he was OK. And another offered up her home for free during Hurricane Sandy. These are all examples that Chesky says have made Airbnb far more personal than the mass-market experiences.


Article sponsored by Airbnb

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Filed under: branding, travel
December 7, 2014

Paris editor’s diary: events with Ji Wenbo, Pandora and Wacoal

Lola Cristall/12.43

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The Fédération française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode, l’Institut français de la mode, the China Garment Association and the China Fashion Association came together to celebrate half a century of unity. Following the China–France fashion summit, Ji Wenbo (left) presented his most recent collection at the prestigious Hôtel d’Evreux at la Place Vendôme. Ji, who is also director of the China Fashion Designers’ Association of Fashion and Art Committee, is known as the ‘king of fashion’ in China. He is head designer of Li Lang, a famous menswear brand. His outlook on the western fashion world incorporates a stunning, vivacious colour palette and original, effervescent styles. Imperial and bold shades came to life on the green and gold catwalk, with delicate prints on bold fabric.
   Pandora and brand ambassador Kellie Pickler, along with lifestyle expert Tai Beauchamp, hosted the Hearts of Today Awards at the Montage Hotel in Beverly Hills. Pandora is more than just a fine jewellery company: it also serves to support good causes. The concept was launched in July and serves to honour and celebrate females who work to improve the lives of women and children. The eight chosen honorees, out of 700 nominations, are each provided with $25,000 that would help them continue to reach their desired goal in ameliorating lives.
   Wacoal Europe invited guests to an intimate evening at the Salon Paul Ricard. The venue featured a number of Wacoal collections, from vibrant shades to neutral colours that attracted onlookers as they touched, felt and admired. Premier by Dead Sea, a brand founded in 1990 specializing in body, skin and hair rejuvenation for men and women, presented guests with natural products that revitalize hands and nails. Lillet featured their distinctive, delicate and sweet French aperitif wines, reviving one’s taste buds. In order to indulge in light-tasting guilty pleasures, Yohan Kim—once Joël Robuchon’s pastry chef—introduced a number of delicate French pastries from financiers with green tea to madeleine and pâte de fruits, exploding with bursts of fruity delight. Throughout the evening, numerous illustrations by Eudoxie were projected on the wall for the audience to enjoy.—Lola Cristall, Paris editor


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December 6, 2014

Camille Cerf, Miss Nord-Pas-de-Calais, crowned Miss France 2015

Lucire staff/23.11

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Laurent Vu/SIPA

Camille Cerf, Miss Nord-Pas-de-Calais, has been crowned Miss France 2015 tonight from the Zenith in Orléans.
   Cerf is 19, and is 1·8 m tall. She is in her second year of business school, and says her ambition and spontaneity are her best qualities. She had emerged as an early favourite online.
   Hinirere Taputu, Miss Tahiti, was runner-up, Charlotte Pirroni, Miss Côte d’Azur, was second runner-up. Malaurie Eugenie, Miss Aquitaine, and Alyssa Wurtz, Miss Alsace, were fourth and fifth.
   The placings were determined by the viewing public, who made their decision through SMS and telephone voting.
   The live telecast on TF1 is expected to get near a 40 per cent share once ratings are confirmed.
   This year’s show featured sets commemorating different genres of film, such as dance, music and musicals (including the films Chicago, The Great Gatsby, Grease, Flashdance and Dirty Dancing), romantic comedies, and Disney–Pixar cartoon Frozen (the top five appeared as Elsa, the Snow Queen). The final evening gown set saw the top five in designs by Nicolas Fafiotte.
   Former Miss France winners were also present, including Delphine Wespiser, Miss France 2012, Malika Ménard, Miss France 2010 and Marine Lorphelin, Miss France 2013.
   Last year, Miss Orléanis, Flora Coquerel, was crowned the 2014 winner, watched by an audience of 8·3 million on television.
   The judging panel comprised Patrick Bruel (presiding over the jury), Olympic swimmer Laure Manaudou, singer Shy’M, TV and radio host Jean-Luc Reichmann, humorist Stéphane Rousseau, comedian Philippe Bas and Miss France 2008 Valérie Bègue. Comedian Kev Adams made a surprise appearance during the evening, with one performance.
   The top 12 contestants were Miss Aquitaine, Miss Roussillon, Miss Guadeloupe, Miss Picardie, Miss Provence, Miss Tahiti, Miss Île-de-France, Miss New Caledonia, Miss Alsace, Miss Côte d’Azur, Miss Nord-Pas-de-Calais and Miss Centre.
   Thirty-three contestants, aged between 18 and 24, competed for the title.


TF1

Above Flora Coquerel appeared on stage alongside Miss France organizer Sylvie Tellier and host Jean-Pierre Foucault.

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Have jacket, will travel: Jonathon Hall gives his holiday menswear tips

Lucire staff/12.08

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New Zealand menswear tailors Rembrandt Suits and Wayward Heir have revealed their summer 2014–15 collections, paying homage to the coveted summer holiday. Designer Jonathon Hall puts the loyal jacket front and centre in the Rembrandt collection, with the pièce de résistance being the crease resistant ultimate travel jacket, the Halcyon.
   To prove their confidence in the jacket, professional footballer Paul Ifill tested the Halcyon (captured in the video below), and Hall recently took the jacket on a 15-day tour of Europe’s fabric fairs (search Instagram for the hashtag #halcyonontour, and see some of the photographs at the bottom of this article).

   With the holiday season fast approaching, Hall takes us through Rembrandt and Wayward Heir’s top ten must-haves for a summer escape.

   1. Rembrandt’s wool–mohair Halcyon, the definitive travel jacket. This unlined lightweight jacket, available in navy and silver-grey, is strong and durable with an exceptional resistance to wrinkles, making it the ultimate fabric for travelling across town, or around the world.

   2. Rembrandt cotton-stretch Beck trousers: narrow fit with plenty of stretch, perfect dressed up or down and exceptionally comfortable to wear on long-haul flights.

   3. An unlined cotton or linen jacket; for a more relaxed look choose between Wayward Heir’s Rimini and Rembrandt’s double-breasted Cornwall jacket.

   4. Blue Hoxton cotton-stretch jeans: they perfectly fill the gap between a jean and a chino.

   5. Wayward Heir Japanese selvedge Garage jeans: a great pair of jeans can take you anywhere.

   6. At least one slim white shirt, a classic that you can wear with anything, for any event.

   7. A Rembrandt Liberty print shirt: dress it up, dress it down, enjoy.

   8. Good shoes. Ones that you’ve worn in. Don’t travel with a brand new pair of shoes, you’ll regret it.

   9. A Rembrandt reversible belt: it can do double-duty with either black or brown shoes.

   10. Pocket squares: even if you’re not wearing a tie, a pocket square in your jacket completes any look. Just make sure one of them is white linen.

Travel tip

When flying, the best way to keep creases out of your jacket (even the crease-resistant Halcyon) is to hang it. A seat-back hook is better than folding, but ideally you could request it gets hung in the cabin wardrobe.









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Countdown to Miss France 2015’s grand final begins

Lucire staff/11.16

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Click here for the latest: Camille Cerf, Miss Nord-Pas-de-Calais, crowned Miss France 2015


Miss France

Above Miss France 2014, Flora Coquerel, with her 1953 predecessor, Denise Perrier, who also took out the Miss World title.

Miss France 2015 will be announced tonight from the Zenith in Orléans with a live broadcast on TF1, starting at 8.55 p.m. local time.
   Last year, Miss Orléanis, Flora Coquerel, was crowned the 2014 winner, watched by an audience of 8·3 million on television.
   Thirty-three contestants, aged between 18 and 24, are competing for the title. Over the previous month, they have been to Paris and Punta Cana (in the Dominican Republic), before heading to Orléans.
   There have been changes to the judging line-up, after actor Alain Delon resigned in the wake of comments supporting the National Front. Patrick Bruel has taken his place as the president of the jury, joined by Olympic swimmer Laure Manaudou, singer Shy’M, TV and radio host Jean-Luc Reichmann, humorist Stéphane Rousseau, comedian Philippe Bas and Miss France 2008 Valérie Bègue.
   One constant has been the presence of MC Jean-Pierre Foucault, who will host for the 20th time. In one departure from the past, viewers will determine the winner and two runners-up with telephone and SMS voting. Previously, they only chose the top five.
   The lead-up to the final on Saturday night has been controversy-free after the settlement with former Miss France organizer Geneviève de Fontenay last year.
   The only controversy of note in 2014 has been the delayed broadcast for the Réunion Islands and French Polynesia, meaning they cannot participate in live voting.
   De Fontenay’s rival competition, Miss Prestige National, takes place on January 18, 2015, in Kirrwiller, near Strasbourg.


Miss France 2014’s eventful year by Le Parisien

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December 5, 2014

Spanish luxury becomes more visible: Tous, Carrera y Carrera get attention

Lucire staff/20.12

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Above Tous’s autumn–winter 2014–15 campaign and Carrera y Carrera’s Romance en el Loto collection emerge.

The Spanish labels are getting far more active, giving their better known French and Italian rivals a run for their money.
   While Zara’s been flying the Spanish flag for years in the budget sector, the much posher Tous has been promoting its wares Down Under, lately with a new store in Auckland in the Tower Building at 8 Customs Street West, next to the Customs Street House. The brand says it will open in Wellington and Christchurch, and give New Zealanders a taste of its luxury jewellery.
   By opening near Prada, Dior and Swarovski in the Tower Building, Tous believes the area will become a magnet for luxury brands for Auckland shoppers.
   Carrera y Carrera of Madrid, meanwhile, has shown its new Romance en el Loto (romance in the lotus) collection, which it calls a celebration of love.
   The new jewellery collection, with a delicate frog at its core, tells the story of founder Manuel Carrera, who, 50 years ago, spotted Marina—and, unbeknownst to him, he had caught her eye, too. It took some time before he mustered up the courage to introduce himself, and they have been inseparable since. The frog represents a ‘fun way’ of remembering that first meeting and the looks they gave one another. The lotus leaves are a tribute to Marina Carrera, symbolizing elegance, beauty and grace.
   The collection features rubies, diamonds and emeralds, in white and yellow gold.







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