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April 12, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, spring–summer 2014–15: the Innovators, Ae’lkemi, Aje

Lucire staff/3.20


Ultimo TAFE Sydney Institute of Fashion

The Innovators’ show featured the work of several recent graduates from the Ultimo TAFE school of fashion, carefully selected as promising future stars. I am always delighted to see fashion which is, like the name indicates, truly innovative and unspoiled by commercial reality. However, most of the garments were highly wearable.
   Irish graduate Ciara Nolan (above) opened the show with a very colourful collection including a bold use of cuts exposing skin and prints. These kids show promise, as they already demonstrate prowess in material manipulation, with expert draping and pleating seen in several of the collections, as well as innovative ideas—some of the dresses were held by translucent rods joining shoulders and other parts of the garment.

Ae’lkemi
Ae’lkemi was an ethereal show which opened with blood red outfits, followed by black and white. Lacey and translucent gowns sashayed down the runway, my favourites being a silver white gown with delicate vertical frills on the hip area, resembling feathers, and a white poncho worn as a dress with exquisite detailing on the back. See-through lace gowns and sets were present, and beautiful. My only comment would be that totally see-through garments on nude bodies are not really likely to be worn by many women, so I may have liked them even more if nude lining had been applied to the gowns in some strategic areas. By and large, glamorous, delicate, feminine.

Aje
Whenever I am going to see an Aje show, I expect an unforgettable experience and they never fail to deliver and exceed expectations. Aje’s show was an ode to the first woman explorer of Africa—an installation in the Theatre, with a central stage featuring a large safari tent and models languidly standing and sitting around. There were many highly wearable garments and a stand-out black lace trouser and blouse set that I want to own right now. Glamorous and sexy but with the right balance of coverage to make it highly wearable. A green leather jacket also stood out—beautifully cut and tailored. The designers were greeting guests at the back of the tent and they were their usual selves, relaxed, happy, warm, down to earth. The atmosphere was evocative of exactly the story they were trying to tell with this beautiful collection. Viva Aje! And may their dreamy creativity bring us endless collections to love and cherish.

The buzz
Being one of the lucky ones that got to enjoy the Mercedes-Benz Star Lounge, I had the outstanding opportunity to mingle with stylists, designers, celebrities and media. It was refreshing to hear stories from the designers themselves and also meet some of the people in the background who make their collections possible. Phoenix Keating is a warm and unassuming guy who welcomes you to talk and puts you at ease immediately. I had a nice conversation with him and also bumped into celebrity stylists Joshua Heath and Josh Finn (ex-Australia’s Next Top Model). Always great to exchange impressions with them—Josh Heath was, of course, epitomizing the manner in which a trendy male ought to dress, without crossing the Zoolander line of spoof fashion, and Finn was sweetly dressed with a great printed poncho by Camilla, which only Josh, as a guy, can do justice to.
   I was pleased to meet the leather man of fashion here, Juan Valdes, of Chilean decent and leather tailor to celebrities, high-end designers and a collaborator even to the latest Star Wars movies. We joked that South Americans are like God—they are everywhere!—Viviana Pannell

Viviana Pannell is the founder and designer for Basquesse, a Sydney, NSW-based label, and a correspondent for Lucire.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, tendances, trend, TV
April 8, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, spring–summer 2014–15, day 2: Michael Lo Sordo, Cameo, Maticevski and others

Lucire staff/14.43


Michael Lo Sordo, via Instagram


Top Michael Lo Sordo, spring–summer 2014–15. Above Maticevski, spring–summer 2014–15.

Michael Lo Sordo’s show was interesting from the moment you walked in. It was an original idea to install a sculpture on the catwalk to add interest, around which the models weaved as the glided down the catwalk. The mood of the collection was one of effortless, easy but chic living.
   The catwalk opened with a predominantly white line-up, followed by pastel-duck yellow, soft blue, and pink, which was followed by black. A profusion of elegant layering, original lapel shapes, crop tops and combination of metallic over flat, flowing soft silks—my cup of tea. Lo Sordo showed garments that can be worn in comfort whilst looking elegant.
   Cameo’s show was well choreographed and presented a youthful collection with a mix of easy-to-wear garments in white, green and print, followed by dressier garments featuring peplum dresses, interesting panelling, lace and some very nicely tailored jackets.
   Toni Maticevski’s show presented some of the most extraordinary garments of the week so far. To the beat of immensely moody music, models wore sculptural garments, often fitted bodices adjoining skirts reminiscent of 1950s Dior; black, white, and black-and-white print, with bright orange also in the mix. Some of the cuts were highly original with the pièce de rĂŠsistance, for me, being a black gown with dropped shoulders and a very unusual, asymmetric neckline and an ample skirt. See-through panelling in some garments was a feature. All in all, an exquisite collection.
   We Are Handsome presented a sweet swimwear collection with some resort wear thrown into the mix in an outdoors setting. Very Sydney.
   Other videos we have today are Gail Sorronda, NLP, Talulah, the WGSN retail edit, Galanni, Serpent and the Swan, Unif.m, and Romance Was Born; and interviews with Lo Sordo, Sorronda, Leroy Nguyen, Ginger & Smart, By Johnny, Ellery, We Are Handsome, Christopher Esber, Phoenix Keating, Talulah, and Strateas Carlucci.—Viviana Pannell

Michael Lo Sordo

Cameo

Maticevski

Gail Sorronda

NLP

Leroy Nguyen interview

Ginger & Smart

By Johnny interview

Ellery interview

We Are Handsome interview

Christopher Esber

Talulah

WGSN retail edit

Galanni

Serpent and the Swan

Unif.m

Romance Was Born

Phoenix Keating interview

Strateas Carlucci interview

Viviana Pannell is the founder and designer for Basquesse, a Sydney, NSW-based label, and a correspondent for Lucire.

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April 7, 2014

Tragedy strikes family again as Peaches Geldof, 25, found dead in Kent

Lucire staff/19.43


Above Peaches Geldof pictured last year at the launch of the fourth-generation Mini.

Peaches Geldof, daughter of Bob Geldof and the late Paula Yates, has been found dead at an address in Wrotham, Kent. The ambulance service pronounced her dead, and police are working to establish the cause of death.
   A spokesman for Kent police said, ‘At this stage, the death is being treated as an unexplained sudden death. Officers are working to establish the circumstances around the death.’
   Peaches Honeyblossom Michelle Charlotte Angel Vanessa Geldof, socialite, model, writer, and TV presenter, was 25.
   Her mother Yates had died of a drug overdose when Geldof was 11. Geldof’s final Tweet on Sunday was linked to an Instagram photo of her with her mother.
   Geldof was married to musician Thomas Cohen, 23. They had two sons, Astala, 1, and Phaedra, who will turn 1 later this month.
   Her father, Bob Geldof, issued a statement, reading: ‘Peaches has died. We are beyond pain. She was the wildest, funniest, cleverest, wittiest and the most bonkers of all of us.
   â€˜Writing “was” destroys me afresh. What a beautiful child. How is this possible that we will not see her again? How is that bearable? We loved her and will cherish her forever. How sad that sentence is.
   â€˜Tom and her sons Astala and Phaedra will always belong in our family, fractured so often, but never broken.’
   The statement was signed, ‘Bob, Jeanne, Fifi, Pixie and Tiger Geldof’.
   Cohen’s statement read, ‘My beloved wife Peaches was adored by myself and her two sons, and I shall bring them up with their mother in their hearts every day. We shall love her forever.’

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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, spring–summer 2014–15, day 1: Aurelio Costarella, Carla Zampatti, Kahlo

Lucire staff/9.13

Lucire features the first day of videos from the spring–summer 2014–15 collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, including Aurelio Costarella and Carla Zampatti, and interviews with Costarella and Alex Perry.
   An extensive line-up of Hollywood goddess-inspired frocks was presented in Solaris, Aurelio Costarella’s spring–summer 2014–15 show. Costarella, once again, dares to dream and create something utterly different, completely feminine and demonstrative of his mastery of the female form. Superb tailoring was shown in a palette of black and white as well as fuchsia and orange, lime and blue. The collection featured styles that were body-conscious and also floaty: a profusion of soft feathers, beading work and clever cuts. Aurelio Costarella remains my personal favourite and I expect to see him breaking into the international scene in a big way, as he deserves.
   The Kahlo show was pared down, in a black-and-white neutral palette, boxy shapes, metallic, and leather! I am not too sure of the practicality of wearing leather in summer but it looked cool.—Viviana Pannell

Aurelio Costarella interview

Aurelio Costarella

Carla Zampatti

Alex Perry interview

Viviana Pannell is the founder and designer for Basquesse, a Sydney, NSW-based label, and a correspondent for Lucire.

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April 5, 2014

Hairstylist George GonzĂĄlez gives blow-out tips for Cindy Crawford’s look on Oprah’s Lifeclass

Lucire staff/8.28

Hairstylist George GonzĂĄlez, of George the Salon, worked on supermodel Cindy Crawford’s hair for her guest appearance on Oprah’s Lifeclass on April 2.
   Says GonzĂĄlez, ‘I made sure to round brush starting at the bottom to build weight. Then, I finished the blowout by styling the sections at the top to minimize volume. The result is soft and natural.’
   His tips for blowout include:

  • • hot tools are often the number-one culprit for frizz, especially if a heat protectant is never used while styling;
  • • for a blowout, women often put the drier directly against the hair because they think that’s the way to get it straight. This why there is damage and frizz, especially when paired with a metal brush;
  • • the worst thing we can do is use old blow-driers or not cleaning out their air vents. Due to lint or hair build-up, air cannot flow through; therefore, the pressure goes down and too much heat is used to style;
  • • if one part does not look good, spray it with water and redo it. Never keep going over it dry. This will make it worse. Not re-wetting hair could be the reason most women have bad hair days, because they try too hard and then over-dry their hair;
  • • a dusting of dry shampoo at your roots will really kick-start the staying power of your blowout;
  • • to further preserve your style, sweep tresses up and use large bobby pins to create loosely sculpted pin curls before you go to bed. Four to six large sections will do the trick. When you release and shake out in the morning, you feel like you just left your stylist’s chair.

   GonzĂĄlez’s salon prides itself on the idea of balance, and as part of its social responsibility efforts, helps victims of domestic violence.

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April 4, 2014

Iranian-born Mahshid Mahdian wins Emerging Designers’ Award at ID Dunedin

Lucire staff/7.59


Chris Sullivan/Seen in Dunedin

Mahshid Mahdian, from Brera Academy, Milano, won the ID Dunedin Emerging Designers’ Award and its NZ$10,000 prize on Thursday night.
   Mahdian’s collection, Shadow, was inspired by shadows in Burano Island in Venezia, and features geometrical shapes and innovative technologies.
   The Tehrān-born designer was encouraged by Mittelmoda’s Stefano Sopelza to enter the awards.
   Judge and World creative director Francis Hooper said in a release, ‘While overall, the standard of finalists were amazing, the winners stood out because their unique character and personality as a designer came through in their garments.
   â€˜Mahshid captured a moment in a heartbeat … When you looked at her collection, you knew she had it just right. It delivered on that inexplicable X-factor.’
   Alanna Barca of RMIT won the Caffè l’Affarè second-place prize of NZ$4,000; Chin Hau Tay of RMIT won third place with the Dunedin International Airport prize of NZ$2,000.
   A special prize was awarded to Vaibhav Singh of NIFT, who wins an internship with Martin Grant in Paris.

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April 2, 2014

Emma Watson, about to graduate, ponders the next stage of her life

Lucire staff/10.05


Andreas Rentz/Getty Images

Above Emma Watson at the Berlin première of Noah last month.

Gracing the April issue of Elle Australia, Emma Watson gives readers the opportunity to realize that despite all her success, she just wants to be normal, and she doesn’t want to be criticized for calling an ‘eraser’ a ‘rubber’, a mistake, she tells Elle, she made during her first week at Brown University. In a few months, she will graduate with a degree in English, and she admits, she has no idea what the next chapter of her life is meant to look like, yet she’s optimistic about the whole ‘post-grad situation.’
   ’Look,’ she tells Elle’s Mickey Rapkin, ‘I just want to know exactly what the next 10 years of my life is going to look like, OK? And to have it organized on a colour-coordinated calendar. Is that really too much to ask for?’ And as most of her graduating class would ask the same question, it becomes clear that, although Watson has graced the film and fashion worlds, she is just like any other “almost graduate” deciding where the next chapter of her life is heading, or at least, trying to figure it out.
   But Watson admits she is jealous of other actresses, whose rise to fame have been less embarrassing to hers, citing her role as Hermione Granger as her greatest, yet not her most stylish, role.
   â€˜There are these actresses who have emerged in the last year or two and they get to emerge as this complete human being,’ adding, ‘And I’m so jealous! Because everyone has seen me with my terrible haircuts and my awful teeth and all the terrible things I wore and said.’ But that’s the beauty of Watson, she’s so candid and honest about her own insecurities and afflictions that she seems unable to understand why people love her now as the style icon she is, but Watson worries that her best days are already behind her.
   â€˜I’ve got so much left to do and prove,’ she tells Rapkin, adding that her absence from the screen wasn’t due to the lack of offers, but, rather the lack of a challenging character. ‘I was being offered roles that I didn’t feel were very complicated. Women that were one-dimensional. Roles that required me to be one thing, but real women never are.’
   Watson admits that she doesn’t want her real life to happen on screen, remembering a quote she once read by Elizabeth Taylor, ‘She had her first kiss in character on a movie set. It really struck me. I had this sense that if I wasn’t really careful, that could be me. That my first kiss could in somebody else’s clothes. And my experience could all belong to someone else.’ The desire to form her own identity is something that Watson emphasizes, she wants to create her own memories, and not just play the role. As the interview progresses, you get the sense that Watson is just trying to find out who she is, without all the Hollywood hype, the movies, the fashion labels; none of that seems too important to her. Emma Watson is on a course to find a “normal” life, but, as she tells Rapkin, finding answers can be tiresome, but finding a safe place is the ultimate goal.
   â€˜If I’ve learned anything, it’s to stop trying to find the answers and certainties.’
   Her desire to feel safe and balanced we all share, even Watson admits her quest is a little mad, but she won’t give up on trying to build a “normal” life. ‘You might think I’m crazy,’ she says, ‘but I was like, “I need to find a way to always feel safe and at home within myself.” Because I can never rely on a physical place.’
   Whatever happens in her quest to build a “normal” life, we hope that Watson continues to dazzle us with her acting performances and that she finally discovers what all graduating students search for: the next chapter of her life.—Snjezana Bobič

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March 23, 2014

Former Miss Universe New Zealand titleholders feature in upcoming Lucire editorial

Lucire staff/23.20



Two former Miss Universe New Zealand titleholders will appear in an upcoming feature in the printed edition of Lucire, with New York-based photographer Jon Moe travelling to Los Angeles to capture the pair for the magazine.
   Laural Barrett (2007) and Samantha Lochhead (nĂŠe Powell, 2008) both live in the LA area, with Barrett pursuing her musical career and Lochhead recently arriving with her husband, footballer Tony Lochhead.
   In addition to Moe, the crew consisted of Jamie Dorman on make-up, Carina Tafulu stepping in at the eleventh hour for hair, Lei Phillips on styling (assisted by Janice Gonzalez). The venue, Riviera 31, is a cocktail lounge at the Sofitel luxury hotel in West Hollywood, arranged through Pivotal PR.
   Lucire publisher Jack Yan and fashion editor Sopheak Seng guided and coordinated from head office in New Zealand, with the aid of US west coast editor Elyse Glickman.
   The current issue, no. 32, is on sale now and features a cover shot by Claire Harrison in the UK.
   Entries are open, meanwhile, for Miss Universe New Zealand 2014, after the new consortium put the event back on television in New Zealand after two decades.




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