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London Fashion Week: from Mary Katrantzou’s opulence to Ashish Gupta’s sequinned Britain


February 22, 2011/23.53

Marios Schwab took the art of broguing on to clothing as opposed to shoes, using the technique on leather dresses, and used pearls around necklines and busts to continue the theme. We liked the use of leather throughout this collection, on black coats and deep red trousers, all done tastefully.
   Irwin & Jordan actually showed at the Haymarket Hotel a few days before, but the video was only made available recently. Prints blending magenta with a deeper violet, sexy red dresses, grey sequinned skirts, tweed pants—Zoë Jordan showed a stylish, well tailored collection.
   We were amazed with the richness of Mary Katrantzou’s prints, and the regal designs which they adorned in satin, cashmere, and jacquard, inspired by everything from Chinese porcelain to Fabergé eggs. Her trade mark lamp-shade skirts continued, but everything looked more wearable than in seasons past.
   Aquascutum showed dresses and blouses in silk and chiffon, and brought fresh takes on the trench—Joanna Sykes had fun with geometry and proportions but kept the overall look flowing and feminine.
   Roksanda Ilincić, who can already count US First Lady Michelle Obama as a supporter, was not afraid to play with rich, electric colours of orange, pink and tangerine to complement more muted off-whites and blacks. On occasion we were reminded of Christina Perrin of years past in New York with her gowns, but, inspired by birds of prey, Ilincić also showed a figure-enhancing digitally printed dress and a variety of cocktail wear.
   Amanda Wakeley started with double-breasted, high-collared coats before moving on to cocktail dresses and high-waisted skirts, emphasizing the hips and movement.
   Fashion East showed works from 10 East London designers, all of whom have tremendous merit: we look forward to writing about many of these individually in years to come.
   Ashish, as the final collection at London Fashion Week autumn–winter 2011–12, showed a collection heavy on British symbols, from the Union Jack to tartan, but heavily embellished with sequins. Ashish Gupta showed rough finishing and torn jackets, referencing punk though not heavily immersed in it, almost a contrast to the cocktail and jet-set crowd that many of the other designers seemed to be targeting on this last day of London Fashion Week.

Day 4 highlights

Marios Schwab

Irwin & Jordan

Mary Katrantzou


Roksanda Ilincić

Amanda Wakeley

Fashion East


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Filed by Lucire staff

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